Dose Pipe Sutututu

I remember reading somewhere Link now supports canbus keypads, and you can adapt whatever you like. I believe same applies to MoTec, just buy any Grayhill keypad and off you go. No need to be locked into Haltech's ecosystem.

Unfortunately Haltech only supports Haltech branded Greyhill canbus keypads. I recall it has to do it with the address used.

Drove to Scarborough for lunch, snapper fish pie was decent, even had prawns in it. Then drove home, gave it a hit and kissed the limiter and left my 50km old PS belt somewhere on the highway lol. Shitbox tings.

Personally I would replace that wastegate, if you're really wanting to stick with that one for period correctness then I would try contact Turbosmart. Judging by the photos, a Turbosmart spring might just work. Saves you from the HKS tax and international shipping.

Picked up this mud kitchen from PL Fabrication for free. I assume I've spent enough money there so the least he could do is give it away for free LOL. Anyhow, lightly sanded the cnut down and then hit it with Dulux outdoor paint, can't remember what colour it is (missus chose it) but I'm a bit colour blind so let's call it light grey. I suppose you could say #builtnotbought lol. Next will fit a water dispenser.

Well your camera car at All Jap Day awaits you lol. I'll get footage of you and @SiR_RB going for it.

Looks pretty boss

To be honest I do not know the answer, however there have been discussions about this on Facebook's Haltech group not long ago. Here's a few responses from people much smarter than me.

True, but at SAU we like to over think things for no reason

I'm just using a PTP one, so far it hasn't spontaneously combusted yet lol... Has been two motors, plenty of heat, plenty of anti-lag LOL..

Timing drops - loss of power Lean out - misfires and/or engine protection triggers Shit lap time. lol

I'm not a fan of putting it on the return side, you have issues when say there's not enough fuel flow, god forbid air pockets, and your ethanol sensor isn't sampling correctly. This could happen say during a high G event. Sure you can set sampling thresholds such as you need x bar of fuel pressure, y RPM however better practice to have it on the feed side. OEM cars run deadhead systems with the flex sensor on them without issue, also those Continental flex sensors will happily take nearly 10 bar of fuel pressure. FWIW (also subjective) I run mine on the feed between the main tank and surge tank.

The way it should be done! Most of these "Instagrammable" cars would ignite after one lap of a real circuit.

Because most of these single turbo conversion guys only use it for drag racing or roll racing. Car is on noise for like a whole 8 to 12 secs. Put any of those cars around the GP Circuit at Eastern Creek and watch things melt.

I only did the rear as that was the area that gave me the most grief on the track, probably doesn't help I have a fair whack of power only out of two wheels. Front end wise, I don't really have an issue with poor turn in, once again my car isn't that low so the control arms are ever so slightly pointed downward thus the tie rods aren't in a funny position to cause bump steer. I do run 7° of castor, I wanted to run a bit more but already the tyres are a bit too close to the guards on lock (running 265/35/18 all round).

run gate pressure, see if that goes away? if so, time for a Haltech R5, Samsonas, PRP catalogue dis dat, dry sump.

Muricannnnnnsssssssss bUt iTs hKs gOdZhiLllAAhh door stoppers that somehow look very similar to eBay turbos.

I used to run 4mm total toe in LOL... this was actually also recommended by 2x different alignment shops (BT Motorsports in Smithfield and also Porters Suspension In Kirawee)

I might try that next, I am just cautious as the rear end still squats quite a bit on noise, which naturally would toe the rear wheels out. I spoke to my aligner and he said to still run a little bit of toe-in to keep the car stable on power, however I agree to your point it would make the car clock not as well.

I don't think it's anything fancy or special to be honest but here goes subframe shifted up 10mm using the GKTech subframe kit subframe all welded up/braced Gktech diff bushes (front/rear) HICAS Eliminator kit (i.e. delete the Nissan tie rod ball joint junk on the toe rods) Camber arms, at -1.5 degrees Traction rods at 15mm longer than OEM White ARB on the softest setting 2mm total toe in 7kg/mm rear springs on MCA X-R dampers KAAZ 2 way LSD 265/35/18 Hankook RS-4 Over height isn't too low, there's about a 18~20mm gap between tyre and wheel arch (not a good measurement as my guards have been cut/welded) Control arms are pointed ever so slightly downwards I suspect my power delivery also attributes to traction, the car somewhat produces a linear ish ish power curve not like your typical exponential growth power curve lol. I get 1bar of boost by about 4200, 1.8bar by 4500rpm and it revs all the way out to 8600rpm. VCT enabled, big silly cams (no stock of the smaller ones at the time).

DOOOOOOO IT.. I took mine out (again) and this time welded up the cnut with the GKtech brace kit and powder coated it. I regret spending money on it, however the car does handle and hook up much better. In other news, out for more testing at Eastern Creek GP Circuit, aiming 1m50s this time round (will be 2nd time out on that circuit).

I find it hilarious that Nankang CR-S or CR-1 are more expensive than AR-1. I was planning on running them until I saw the prices and ended up with Hankook RS-4 So far, I must say I'm impressed with the Hankook RS-4 though, in 2nd I can put down all 438kW on the street! They performed well enough at Eastern Creek's GP Circuit too. Would be nice if Wakefield was open, could really push these tyres and compare them to the Nankang AR-1 tyres I had previously on the car. Back on topic, 7500km to 10000km per set of tyres is a respectable number for life with a mix of track/street. When I ran Nitto NT01s all round (Taleb Tyres parallel import special) they would last about 5000km or less per set.

Good choice, don't be like me and get a KAAZ 2 way lol.. It's so aggressive, I had to get diff place to reduce the initial clamp. My friends with Nismo diffs in their Silvias behave so much better.

Not at all, pineapples are garbage as you move the subframe even further away from the chassis. These are replacement subframe bushes

These ones, they're a little more forgiving than alloy. https://au.gktech.com/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes