Dose Pipe Sutututu

Just checked again, and yes both APP1 and APP2 are pretty much in sync

It's getting a uranium nuclear reactor to power the car using twin Tesla motors.

Just also a friendly reminder what I refer to handling/performance might be different to you and others, very subjective in a sense 😊 I also still think my car feels like a pile shit.

I was pro thick Whiteline bars dis dat as well, on the reduce body roll brigade but have learnt through experience that thick anti roll bars aren't actually that great. You create too many scenarios where you lift the inner wheel around turns or when you're travelling on bumpy roads both wheels on the same axle are trying to move together. Not to mention it makes the car very twitchy. Now I'm running 10kg front springs, 7kg rear springs with the front anti roll bar set to the softest setting, and the rear set to 2nd softest setting (allows the car to clock a bit better) and I can guarantee you it is more comfy than my mates old R33 with run of the mill BC BR 8kg/6kg coil overs. Rides better than my old king spring/Bilstein setup with stupid stuff anti roll bars. Also best part, I'm no longer breaking off anti roll bar brackets at the front when I ride ripple strips.

This would be part of the problem here, and add in thick anti roll bars (sway bars as they're often referred to) and it's a big fun mess on shit Aussie roads.

On the throttle yes, not the pedal

I better look at mine running again, I just pulled up old logs and saw the same voltage for APP 1 and 2.

hmmm I see that APP1 vs APP2 has difference voltages, they "should" be nearly the same. Maybe try borrow another pedal from someone or from someone's nan's Nissan X-Trail lolol...

double, triple check your DBW TB wiring, there are some models the pins are reversed for whatever reason, also do the same on the pedal. Can you get a screen of all your voltages?

If it's track proven by @bcozican, then it's a goer for me! Will contact them and order, looks like their eComm is down at the moment.

I've donated enough to the Nissan car gods lol... The more I spend on this shit box, the less money I have to put towards a fast, stock, modern car.

Definitely keen on the results! A good test is to park the car stationary and leave the A/C on for a good 15 minutes and see what your coolant temps are like. On a 36 degree (Celsius for those Americans reading) with the A/C on for a good 15 minutes my coolant temp would sit about 99 ~ 103 degrees, oil temp about 105 degrees. As soon as I drove for 15 seconds, that would drop back into the low 90s. Without A/C on at all, when stationary the water would stay in the low 90s, once moving mid to high 80s. Funny enough, when I'm giving it a hard time at the track (i.e. going around a circuit not down a drag strip) water temps generally don't move far from mid to high 80s (I suppose there's heaps of air being forced in from the front of the car).

You have a lower chance of the belt exiting off the pump as it's a 4 rib, for whatever reason Nissan decided to go to a 3 rib on the R33 GTS-t, but then back to the 4 rib on the R34 GT-t. Maybe then decided to use a 3 rib pump to pay homage to R-3-3 LOL...

It doesn't seem to be a popular item, hence I was curious on feedback Guess I'll order it soon, hopefully have it sorted before All Jap Day in May.

Okay I just found one, on an American site lol.

Hallo, Yes I have a stupid RB that spits power steering belts when I smash the limiter at 8600rpm, clearly at a RPM Nissan engineers never envisaged a pleb spec RB25 would reach. RB26 motors don't seem to spit belts as often as they run a 4 rib belt, where as a R33 RB25 uses a 3 rib (I moved all my R33 ancillaries onto the R34 RB25 NEO motor). I know there are options such as deleting the power steering setup altogether or running one of those FPG power steering replacement kits (very sexual) but I'm not keen on either option - mainly due to effort required & cost. I can't recall when Ross released their power steering idler kit - however it might just be the solution I'm after. It essentially just adds an idler on the power steering bent to stop the silly deflection at high RPM. In theory it seems to make sense and "should" stop power steering belts spitting off when I smash the limiter OR just rev out the car at high RPM. I'm more so keen on: thoughts, if this will actually solve my problem or just a pretty looking engine ornament (stares virtually at @GTSBoy) actual installs of it, I can't seem to find any installed photos of it on the web Is it actually worth the $370 or so Thanks everyone! (Yeah finding new ways to waste money, I've turned into @The Bogan)

not really, the whole car does wobble a bit with the lumpy idle but that's self inflicted with the hole in the timing map. Other than that, no vibrations on idle, no shaking steering wheel like a Honda with solid mounts.

Not sure if these fit your application, however I use them and they're great. https://www.vibra-technics.com/nissan/skyline_r32_r33_r34_gt_gtr_gts_t/623/NIS240M_kit/engine_mount_r33_gts_t_rb25det_r34_gtt

Roll Racing you need long sleeve and a helmet too

@SiR_RB ...

I'll be the camera car, since mine is slow af

Kitchen coming together well!

Just bought, thanks for reminding me. Once again, keen on the GP Circuit Session, I want a low 1m50s

Congrats! Also very rare and now expensive headlights

And by the time you've finished, you would have spent enough for a RB25DET NEO AWD motor which is quantum leap when compared to the RB20 or RB25 with hydraulic lifters. Then after all that, you'll probably want it to actually go fast, put aside another 15k. Then a BMW M2/3/4 Comp sounds like a good value.