Dose Pipe Sutututu

There's one guy selling a R34 AWD without running gear for $55k. It did once upon a time have 800kW out of it.

I know right, I'm going to All Jap Day in Sydney on the 3rd of July. They have a few Eastern Creek sprint sessions, which I believe are untimed but I'll give it a crack with Race Chrono running. Why build a car and not enjoy it right? It's like having a hot missus that you can't have a poke from time to time lol.

Shit box updates, decided to go through the box of new OEM shit. Quick wins, replace both cabin light lenses and upgrade from halogen bulbs to LED. Before with the OEM halogen bulbs and yellowish lenses. And yeah my Bride Zeta IV seat will go back in for All Jap Day 😎

Oh yeah, here's an idle video. Barely can hear the lumps, running a cat, 1x muffler and 1x massive SMB muffler sure shuts up the car.

Fantastic looking kit @hypergear!

I actually logged in and disabled the engine protection (yeah I did that) LOLOL Won't be doing that again!

Keeping this thread on topic. A bit of background, our house has the master bedroom on-top of the garage. So any heat/cold from the garage is pretty much transmitted into the bedroom floor. Terrible in summer, terrible in winter. As the garage panel door is all aluminium, it's a acts as a massive heatsink. To slow down the effectiveness of this unwanted heatsink I decided to insulate the panels with 20mm Foilboard. Essentially it's just 20mm polystyrene with foil sheets either side. They are $44 a sheet (2.4x1.2m) from Bunnings, one side is reflective foil the other side some green snot colour. Ended up needing 4.5 sheets, could have done 4 if I joined left overs but yeah nah. I didn't take any pre temperatures but once up I could instantly notice a difference inside the garage at about 11pm. This morning I walked in and also was quite pleasant to be inside. Looks like it worked and not to mention reflects a bit more light off the lights. $240 (plus foil tape which I haven't applied yet, job for another day). Also took out the shit box on my Meat Emporium run. This time with the gate plumbed back and more boost 😎 And my silly mate with a built Evo 3 has twisted my arm into going to All Jap Day on the 3rd of July. Will give this "roll racing" thing a go and the faux power cruise sessions a good go. If anyone is around, come say hi! (Pray to all the gods I don't bin the motor, my track record hasn't been very good lately lololol)

If you're keen, check out my build thread. Might be much cheaper just buying my car than trying to build this from the ground up.

Jesus, I am truly envious.

Another option is going to Pickles and finding a clapped out smashed up R33 NA auto for cheap. Strip all the interior parts, whatever else you need. Then drop in a Barra motor, ZF8HP, 500kW dis dat stock internals.

Samsonas +$20k

HKS ECU into the bin. The time, money, life you waste trying to get that piece of shit to work properly. Just throw it into the bin, get a Haltech and enjoy life. Remember time = money, the more time you burn getting that piece of shit to work the more money you burn and of course time.

Man getting PTSD seeing that R33 in pieces, reminds me of my shit box. I hope to see a twin scroll single turbo, with twin gates, and a Samsonas.

Hi all, I have 6x 1650cc Bosch Motorsport Injectors with stainless internals. They have been recently cleaned & flowed by Quick Bitz in Melbourne (I sent these down with my mate's IDs to get cleaned). They were from my previous motor that went bang (which you all know about). It was left to sit in the rail for close to a year and when they were installed into the new motor none of them would fire. Most likely E85 dried up and jammed the injectors so a brand new set of 6x were purchased from Sonic Performance to get the car going. These were then left on the shelf to be cleaned (yeah I know took me 7 months lol). Quick Bitz in Melbourne cleaned, back flowed, then flow tested all 6x, now here's the fun part. 2x flowed more than the 4x, looks like when I bought these from Sonic they may have grabbed 2x from one tray and 4x from another tray hence the small difference in flow. Most people would probably not notice the difference, however might be good for someone running an older ECU that doesn't individual cylinder trims and want the last 2x richer for whatever reason. Summary: All cleaned, flowed by Quick Bitz 4x matched, 2x matched Top o-rings are brand new Bottom o-rings NOT included Test/Flow sheet from Quick Bitz included Commonly called 1650cc (4bar base) but they're actually 1480cc (3 bar base) Price: $550 Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166

Keeping thermostat housing as spare, everything else sold. Thanks everyone!

Come take out the Motive DVD fastest GTS-t with Sunroof and BMW shifter title. (btw I'm secretly taking notes)

Yep that's the Bosch sensors I will move to once my Halaltech one dies. Just one thing, I've been told the Bosch sensors do degrade then eventually leak fluid out of the connector (can't win it seems). I'm running 2x of those EFI Solutions sensors on the car at the moment too. Was being tight and didn't want to buy a Haltech one lol... 1x is being used for EMAP and 1x is being used for Oil Pressure.

Sensor may have seized, as it's not a stainless body. Perhaps swap it out for a Bosch pressure sensor.

Same plug 😎

Yes they are, however you need to also run the 350Z disc (albeit the same thickness and diameter) as the hat offset is different to the GT-R rotor. And in terms of caliper dimensions, no idea I know that stock R33 GT-R wheels fit over a GTS-t with 350Z Brembo calipers.

If it bolts up to a R33 GT-R, it will bolt up to a GTS-t. You'll need to trim the lip on the rear dust shields all round, some people bend it back. I found it's much easier to flap disc it off, then hit it with some black paint.

swap the fuel lines around just for a sanity check ideally this is the order Fuel tank -> Fuel Pump -> Fuel Filter -> Rail -> Fuel reg -> Fuel dampener -> Fuel tank

I reckon @Duncan is on the money here!

Pulled down this log a few days ago, only had a chance to look at it now. Interesting to see the change over point where the exhaust backpressure drops below the manifold pressure once the turbo comes on (4300rpm) and the manifold pressure continues to stay at about 0.68:1. Thing should be more fun once we get more EMAP vs. MAP.

I suppose it was more so a speed constraint for shops, hub dynos take more time for you to load the car where as a roller you just hit the dyno brake drive the car on, a few straps and off you go. This means you can tune more cars in a day, and also not require additional help to load/strap cars. And yes I agree roller dynos don't really give you that accuracy (from a tuning perspective) as your tyre temperature, stickiness, etc. all contribute to distorting the output being measured. A good example is a car on say Hankook RS-4, you can do a back to back run and instantly lose like 20kW as the rubber heats up and sticks to the rollers. From a tuning perspective, imagine you were comparing two runs with more and less timing (bad example but you know what I mean) you'll be left scratching your head for a while why adding additional timing didn't provide the power yield you were expecting. I have a S15 to re-tune soon (same one I did a while ago making 270kW on a GTX2860 Gen 2, it ate up an oil pump and the owner binned the motor). This time round has 9:1 comp and Tomei 256 Poncams (had the US junk in it before 258), I did advise the owner to go Kelfords but he was happy with the car overall and didn't want to change much. Also it will be going on the hub dyno, should be fun (first time for me)!