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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Okay so some slight digging, you essentially pin it to GND and Trigger 1 (Link ECU reference). Trigger 2 is unused, I suspect that's the home signal. 12V is unused in this instance. @robbo_rb180 got mine to start first go yesterday, but it does need a fair amount of cranking. I suspect it "might" want more fuel on crank. I also went to town with the pulse prime, get those runners nice and moist when it's cold lol Also tried adding more timing on crank, I think it makes it a bit harder to crank, will drop it all to 0s this week and try again
  2. It was initially pinned wrong by NZ Wiring then as I was troubleshooting, Haltech support advised to feed the reluctor 5V power, which is actually incorrect. The reluctor actually generates it's own voltage. I will confirm how I've wired it in a bit. Actually can't remember right now lol.
  3. It gets driven once a month lol... Even if I drive it once a week, I still add in that additive. So far (past motors, setups, etc.) I've never had injectors gum up or seize, so it might work? (Or it's a scam and I'm donating money to the Lucas Oil execs)
  4. Robbo's on the money here. I missed the part where you're running the twin thermos. In the bin they go, factory shroud and fan then see how you go.
  5. Avoid eBay radiators, including the eBay ones sprayed Mishimoto on them. Get a PWR or Koyo or so. Also did you bleed the system properly?
  6. It does sound wild though 🥲 Also took out the shit box to refuel, when the fk did E85 cost $2.19 per farken L? United are laughing to the bank. Extra measure because it rarely gets driven Also got my cam trigger to sync quicker,l on crank, the arming voltage was too high
  7. You could get her to setup an IG account and when you post on FB it automatically goes to IG Hopefully we can race together somewhere, some day, (hopefully not in my R33) lol...
  8. haha just had a squiz/listen - you on IG bruvva? I rarely use FB.. cbf
  9. Yes the Haltech still controls the A/C output Your HVAC system requests for the A/C to turn on, the ECU then determines when to output to the compressor relay (under certain TPS, under certain RPM, and when x% extra duty cycle is applied to the IACV). Since you're going DBW you just set an extra % the throttle needs to open. You'll find that with DBW it idles so much better than the OEM leaks valves. This is what I've done to mine (needs quite a bit of duty cycle to idle as I have VCT enabled from idle to sound like a hard cnut lol) And I've added some delays so the idle stabilises first before the A/C compressor request is sent out from the Kebabtech And this is my zero demand timing table, as you can see with A/C on I've added quite a bit of timing to introduce more torque And you're wondering why there's a massive timing difference between 850 and 900? yeah that's for the hectic fully sick idle LOL
  10. And this all goes out the window with an aftermarket ECU as you calibrate 0% at whatever voltage and 100% at whatever voltage.
  11. Not very clear on their websites or social but the original one for postponed. It's now on the 19th of Nov. https://www.facebook.com/1600176236978602/posts/pfbid027bvKDkMNNSihZSquEZfTE5p7ZWHiWyx1vT11CmoMZYnBiUbQE4Fv7BUxZMUEAiehl/?app=fbl
  12. I'm going to All Jap Day, a mix of power cruise and Roll Racing. Will leave a little note on the car saying it's for sale 😎
  13. Or another option is I get a burner phone/number. Like a true Skyline owner back in the late 90s and early 00s. Just need a dragon tattoo on my back, and wear microfibre pants.
  14. @Murray_Calavera just don't want to list it on Carsales at present, the phone will ring hot with idiots asking to swap their VY SS or VY Ute or their mum's Falcon, etc.
  15. Oh trust me I would if offered the right money.. I'll even give them all the new door seals, plastic trims and shit that are sitting in boxes.
  16. Just testing the water here, would anyone following this thread be keen on buying my shit box? If so, slide into my DM.
  17. If all the above fails, block off this stupid thing: They seem to like to jam up and seize randomly. Typical Nissan leak valve BS, honestly imagine they just used a stepper motor for idle control (like their JZ cousins with some brains).
  18. If you're going into that much effort, might as well convert it to DBW. No more stuffing about with AAC, IACV slow reacting leak valves.
  19. It's probably your idle control strategy on your Link trying to control the idle speed with timing. Have you recalibrated your TPS at 0% and 100%? Don't try use the OEM method to do this, as it won't work. There are two factory leak valves. Try block off the one that's under the plenum and disconnect it. It isn't really needed with a modern ECU controlling idle.
  20. Hot, all the factory leak valves can go into the bin.
  21. New platform doesn't surprise Christmas tree you like the older shit boxes.
  22. Or just buy a M2, works out cheaper in the end.
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