Dose Pipe Sutututu

Sexual manifold, dat split to the seat of the gate

Is this traction setup for circuit racing or drag/roll racing? If it's for drag, straight line business see if you can adapt a GPS sensor. You can then calculate slip percentage (road speed) between the drive wheel & the actual position of the car. For circuit racing, you would ideally want both front wheels fed in vs. the rear driven wheels.

Hey SAU Gang, Slowly pulling things off the shelf to sell to make room for my future M3 if anyone is idiotic enough to swap me their stock M3 for my somewhat stupid money pit R33 shitbox (yeah, pipe dream 😂) $100 Plazmaman R33 RB25 Fuel Rail Will suit 1/2 height injectors under the factory plenum without any silly plenum spacers. Comes as pictured with injector bosses and rail spacers. This was used with my old setup and Bosch 1550cc (aka 1650cc) injectors. Can be used with other 1/2 height injectors with ease. $150 R33 S2 GTS-t RB25DET Intake Manifold/Plenum DOES NOT come with both water temp sensors and does not come with injectors or rail. Does come with IACV, AAC, throttle body, PCV, etc. Plenum seal would have seen about less than 5000km of use before the engine exploded. Great for someone doing some conversion OR as a spare for a cut/shut FFP. $10 RB25 thermostat housing, 35mm outlet. Taken from blown motor, no signs of cavitation or corrosion. Good for replacing cooked ones. Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166

Nek minnit Brett installs a RB25DET NEO head because has VCT GT-t-R

You need flyback diodes, if not your SSRs would be ripping hot and will fail with time.

Look at us, all so modern Love it - running all pumps full tilt all the time is stupid!

ooo I lied, I run it at 200hz It's 100AMP Jaycar SSR, with flyback diodes on each Walbro 450L

Interesting you've done yours off injector duty cycle, though not wrong it's interesting (to me that is). Here's mine:

no more silly AFR hunting at idle, regardless of fuel temp or big injectors Haltech is great, provided it's used properly.

I always say this on Guild of EFI on Facebook, if the laptop can load up pornhub then it will load up any modern tuning software. 1920x1080 screen is good.

I would not stage the pumps and duty cycle them together and ramp them up based on MAP (as the load axis). At 100hz, the Walbro 450/460s don't like any duty under 40% they start to make an awful hum, however any higher they seem ok! I suspect your pumps wouldn't be too far off that. Part of the problem you have is 1x pump is always at full filt _ your lift pump. They're heating up your fuel unnecessarily. Also, if you have proper injector data and fuel data i.e. fuel temp vs fuel density vs. ethanol then there's no real issue with warm fuel. This is how I've done mine (note must tuning shops will not do this, as customers don't pay them enough for their time - Link and MoTec have this predefined).

On the track (as in a circuit not a 400 straight line) I've seen my fuel temps go above 65 degrees after 10 laps of Wakefield. Day to day driving around town probably 30s to 40s, mind you I run PWM so both pumps in the surge are duty cycled. The DW200 lift pump however is just on factory wiring with the resistor deleted. And no your fuel temp isn't that high.

I haven't done it just yet on mine, as of late I haven't had much spare time to tinker however I believe if you expose part of the dust shield you'll be able to see the wheel studs. This would be an ideal solution on a non ABS car, however if you wish to retain ABS then this won't work. Or if both the above is too hard basket, just use a GPS sensor and calculate the percentage slip based on rear wheel speed vs GPS speed (similar to how AWD, 4WD guys would control traction).

Potentially this also could be a solution. High RPM no worries

Just send it, use a PDM @MBS206 wire it to a canbus keypad and then have soft start etc. People will froth

They sure bloody do! There are 3x variations from what I know. 8, 12, 13 pins!

I know, what the hell have I done? 😅

Found some time to work on the shit box, unpaired the passenger window from the driver side output and now I have independent window control again 🥰 Previous window switch decided not to work anymore and finding a replacement 12-pin one was pretty much impossible. Finding new was out of the question too, all the new ones are 8-pin which is not compatible unless I change the loom and install a window amplifier. After 2 years or more of Fast and Furious Johnny Tran S2000 Power Window action I found a working used switch for $60 (wreckers wanted $240 just for the switch only!!!!!).

If you get a good rear entry into the turn just commit and slide out the other end. Just make sure you have good extended lock knuckles. Yeah nah, I don't think it's going down anytime soon.

Velli naice

He's still using the factory ITB, you're planning on chopping it to fit a single DBW TB which will affect the way air flows and distributes across the runners at partial throttle.

If you're going to change it, at least go a Plazmaman or CPC not a Nismo one. Nismo "performance" parts don't really perform if you know what I mean. (This is my personal opinion 🙂)

Sure can Here's another mock up I've done for you (you can add more dimensions to it, such as a rotary trim switch position OR canbus keypad selection) Note I do not work for Haltech, I just like their products as it's affordable and user friendly for the enthusiast tuner such as myself.

Then just keep the factory plenum No need to burn more money on a fancy Plazmaman plenum for little gain (if any). It does look good though, billet dis dat albeit for a Rb25 shit box.

My advice is, install your FMIC, drop off your car & ECU to your closest tuner. Wait a few days, go pay and collect car and enjoy.