my_gtr32

Thanks for that. Noltec make a kit with a full length tube fitted to the inner pivot opposed to the two piece used in the Whiteline kit, but I don't think it's an offset tube. I was not aware Nolathane made a bush type camber kit. I will keep investigating what's available.

My R32 gtr has the Whiteline camber kit installed. The negative camber still can’t be reduced further than 2.25 Degrees on the Right Front. The adjuster is fully turned. Front Left is better and there’s still some adjustment left. Vehicle height is 340mm from centre of wheel to guard. Cannot raise any further due to another issue. Looking at adjustable upper arms but most are the pillow ball type and not suitable or legal for a road car. Noltec do make one using bushes but are currently out of stock and pending a re-design. Part No.52088. Nolathane have just released their version but only suitable for the track and unlikely to be legal for the road. Part No.45917. It uses a sealed bearing and it’s so new no pictures available on their website yet. One idea a suspension specialist said could work was trying to fit the eccentric crush tube and yellow bushes from another camber kit into the rear inner pivot of the arm. Hence doubling the adjustment of the whiteline camber kit. Has anyone tried this? Thanks in advance

Look at rebuilding your turbos with steel exhaust wheels, or buy new. That's the real weak spot when chasing more power / boost on a GTR. The ceramic exhaust wheel shatters and may take out your engine. Its good insurance but costs around 3K installed. Its very hard to replace turbo dumps without removing the turbos anyway. If you want the Trust extension dumps & front pipe you realy have no option but removing the turbos. I'm running rebuilt standard turbos, standard dumps with HKS front Y pipe. Yes bigger dumps may help but not by that much if using gtr turbos on say 16PSI boost. Can't justify the expense. This is not just my opinion, its what I was told by one of the best tuners in Melbourne. No need to replace dumps. I'm running 265rwKW at 16PSI r32 GTR. Other engine mods are cam gears, PFC and high-flow cat back. It's a daily driver. And Sk's group buy suspession pack is a must.

Very interesting article. Sit down, grab a drink and Reeeead. Prety much says use the thinest oil you can get. I'm thinking I may try 5W-30 or 0w-30 in my GTR next. Currently running Motul Chrono 300v 10W-40 and have 75PSI oil pressure when cold at 3000 RPM.

Interested in the GTR driver seat only will you separate? Does anyone only want the Recaro? I'm in melbourne too.

Did a simular thing to my R32 GTR recently. Ran a ground directly from battery negative to transistor module. From transistor module to both rear and front coil pack mounting bolts. Also cleaned paint off mounting pads for transistor module. To date, no missfire. Blooody unreal, all sorted. :sorcerer:

Hey, welcome to the club! I drove my last car for eight years and never scrapped a wheel. Since owning my gtr, still a perfect record until, the past few weeks. I've done it twice. Can't beleive it as I'm always so carefull. Minor damage but not happy. At least my wheels are painted not polished so $80 should fix it. Good luck, the pics look nasty.

That's great. Thanks for the pictures. I purchased the Trust / Grex unit because it's of high quality and I prefered a vehicle specific kit rather than making brackets and having hoses made up for a universal kit. That's why I paid the extra money for it. But it seems unlikely this kit can fit in the intended location without changing BOV's or stuffing around. Not happy. I was assured this unit will fit without any modifications from the supplier, whitch I have in writing.

What size cooler and was it a Trust / grex one? Do you have pics? The instuctions I got with the cooler shows installing it in left inner fender. USELESS!

ARC cooler replaces the sloted grill, Or you can fit this type of grill

Thanks for that. Grex make a number of different kits. They all have various length hoses depending on the coolers location. Has anyone fitted the grex cooler infront of the factory BOV's? I'm not sure if its going to fit and my instructions are for the wrong location

Guys, as titled, I need some assistance with a Grex oil cooler. The model I ordered should fit into the right inner fender. I guess that means the drivers side right? But all the pictures in the japanese instruction book refer to the passenger side? WTF is going on?? I am trying to fit the cooler in front of the factory BOV but I have never seen a cooler mounted there with the BOV's still installed. I wish I could read japanese. Can anyone shed some light?

Same here. My 93 GTR has no cutouts for N1 vents. I'm thinking of installing these vents too but without a template and having to cut the reinforcement bar, puts me off.

Hi, I'm after the intercooler piping. Pm payment details.

Mate, can you please reply to you're PM.... Still waiting for response.

I will take the ARC airbox to suit a R32 GTR as per PM sent.

One thing I learnt a while ago was to first check the price on a new item before going to the wreckers. Sometimes dealers drop prices to clear stock.

Beer Baron, can you be more specific. What is involved. I would rather change the lot than simply the covers. Thanks

Bought new hinges for my R32 from Nissan. Cost $22 each! I was supprised. That's pretty good value and they are new.

Hi, has anyone tried to swap the front seats around in a R32 gtr or other skyline? I was thinking of swapping mechs over from a passenger seat to make up a good drivers seat. Its much easier to find a pasenger saet in good condition than a drivers seat and are usually cheaper. From what I can see, the base and rear of the seats are the same, its just the rails and recliner mech that are different. Would it bolt up?

I don't know about that. My gtr was tunned by Racepace and runs close to 1.2 bar. Not maxing out using standard injectors and fuel pump. AFMs are getting close though. Is Ben a clown?

Mate, I read you're post. I was simply commenting on the delema of having an aciedent and not having any insurance. The comments were general and not aimed at you or you're situation. I feel for you. My first car was a bomb worth 3K and I was quoted around a thousand for full comp. Paid $250 for third party and was lucky not to need it.

These I smashed my car and don't have insurance threads are becoming very common. While I sympathise with people being asked to pay 3k per year for full comp insurance on a car worth less than 20k. It’s a rip off but it's you're choice. Maybe you should reconsider the type car you buy until you're older? Nothing turbo will be heaps cheaper to insure. If you can't resist and must buy a performance car, at least pay for third party insurance. Maybe even put away the money you saved into a "just incase" bank account. Drive sensibly, go on a defensive driving course and avoid the temptation to be a d*ckhead when you're mates are in the car. I know it's bloody hard but you don't want to owe thousands because you smashed into someone's expensive euro car or something. Worse still, also owe money on you're car which you can no longer drive either. Not a good way to start you're adult life being in debt all because you just had to buy some fast car to impress you're mates. Buying a car is one thing, running it including all the other expences is another.

I have an Apexi Mgaphone Dunk cannon mufler sitting at home. Has 115mm tip and comes with a section of 3.5 inch pipe (at least) fitted. PM if interested. I'm in Melbourne South East.

Sounds similar to the problem I had. It was hard to track down at first. I thought it was from the front too. As the shudder became worse, I was able to isolate it. Try removing the 4WD fuse then apply 1 turn lock when stationary. Take off fairly slow and see what hapens.