SDEWY5

thats going to be fkn hot...

where are you located man? if you need help with prepping it if i can organise a day off ill give you a hand with it if you like. All the more experience for me.

I've had a few different kits on my cars and between the preparation and fibreglassing i've performed myself craps on what i regard as majority of smash repairs. I will do everything panelwise myself from hereon, the only thing i will have done by the pros is the final spray. If it's your own car you have the patience to do it properly whereas they will probably not even prep your kit before highfilling it. End up with casting marks all through it, fragile areas that split paint 5 mins later, wavey skirts from no blocking etc. Not worth it even if youre paying piss all. makes a nice car look cheap. Mind you man im kinda obsessive when it comes to this shit, noone could probably keep me happy lol.

what does this have to do with the PFC though?

technically it will work plenum side of TB but will be marginally better if you hook it up as close to the turbo as possible on the pressure side, it's a better idea to do it this way.

well theyre kidding you if they reckon its too hard...not a huge deal involved. Best done on the car. one thing though, not sure about that point on the C pillar where it just finishes. I think you will find better ones out there. most of these over fender kits require you to hack up your original guard around the wheelarch. Typically anything fibreglass won't be very accurate in its fitment requiring lots of hours fibreglassing, if you are good at glassing it will halve your bill at the end. There are others that begin from the quarterpanel's crease and are the bottom section only. easier to fit and mould to the body. This is worth it if you know what youre doing yourself. If you don't it'll cost u a bomb.. Don't silicone anything, in fact any sort of glue gun...throw it away. Don't bog anything either.

Powdercoating probably be a better option, mate had a set of rims sprayed by a panel shop white and though it still looks good, where he's taken the wheels off a few times its begun to chip...

Urethane! best sh!t ever invented. comes in both white n black, so if you have a white car..even better in the event you might get a tiny bit in a visible area, same goes with the black on black car. If youre not familiar with it, only use 10c piece size dots every 30cm or so apart (when putting pods over standard bar) and same with sideskirts. its savage stuff to get back off and only really dissolves with a smooth rag and lots of turps. Also small amount under areas where you will use the standard skirt fixture holes with correct bolts. Quick grip clamps are a necessity and some 2" masking tape helps too. Leave it to sit for 12-24 hours depending on temperature and use some latex surgical gloves or something coz the crap is that hard to get off your hands... Also it wont damage your paint if or when you do want to take it off.

Seen some with a hex type drive made of billet at Webb's Autosport (Probag) down in Minto. they look sick and by that they look very strong too. dont have pics though sorry.

Yea same as Jet20 wit me, got a bodgy one from Just Jap that i later found out when it shat itself that they'd been recalled, good lads though they credited me with the amount to spend on other stuff in store. Will never put a cheap one on my car again. Would only get Jap brand or 6 boost manifold now.

Yea dude ur 33's tough, love it..

I think the standard M spec skirts r the same as the gtr skirts, so id imagine that with the pods on the back your car would look much the same as a gtr. most smash repairs will do a $500 cash job for a full kit depending on how much prep is involved. if theyre good quality then it shouldnt cost more than that. Well thats wat i paid but i did most of the prep myself coz i wasnt happy wit the finish on it.

haha lol cheers dude

hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha hahahahahahahah.... Remind me never to go to Peru...

Not sure dont think so man. Think the injectors would need collars to make them fit. dont quote me but. Mounting points for rail would almost certainly be different too. Not to say you couldnt get it to work but a offcut of aluminium fuel rail is pretty cheap and to get a couple earl's fittings etc wouldnt cost much. would look hot too.

Theres a really nice R32 GTSt somewhere in newcastle that u should buy if it ever comes up for sale, its ford Tickford blue, tan interior, RB25 conversion with box and diff, set up awesome, lol it was my mates car n just about everything on it shat itself so now its like brand new lol....wonder if the new owner is on here AUO-19P anyone?

Getting my passenger door, front drivers fender replaced n just about half my car resprayed after an expedition into the gravel trap at eastern creek off turn 1, took the paint off just about everything. Oh n time for a new kit...my JUN one is [email protected] on n off takes all of about 20 mins, so guess expect maybe round $400-500 depending if u want it all blended or not. Yea edit, dunno how bad the rust is but id be pretty sure that repairing the rust would be cheaper.

lol he's TOTALLY wrong? heh ur arrogant..

Ok, so today my old man decided to drive his car (by accident of course) straight into my passenger door, its caved in about half a foot...totalled it, did a pretty good job! Managed to miss everything around it though which was good, no damage to rear quarter, front quarter or side skirt. Anyone have one they want to flog off?? Cheers.

Hi all, did an oil change today with the good stuff, Motul 300V chrono 10W-40. Going to Eastern Creek on Sunday and i thought as precaution to go buy some more oil. The only dealer of Motul stuff nearby is a Motorbike shop so i went in, sure enough they had the oil but im unsure if its the right stuff. it has a different package label on it that says "Motul 300V double ester 10W-40" Not chrono. Am i thinking into it too much or is it the same stuff just repackaged for bikes etc? If there is a difference theres obviously no way i want to be putting motorbike oil in my car. The package label on the back says nothing about being bike specific etc but just a bit hesitant. Someone able to clarify what i've bought is the same stuff?

anyone feel the older 9807 alpine units were way faster at skipping n loading etc than the newer ones? i do.

Crossfire for subs, alpine for everything else.

shit man i just swapped my x type splits today from the front to back DDLinear in the back now and had no idea wat to do wit the tweeter, thought i was going to have to cut the door trim, your post has saved the life of my door trims, legend. Also do u know a dude named Lloydstrom, he's got a calibra too and i remember he had a mate wit a 32 GTR that got painted at Louie's workshop? ring any bells? anyway cheers dude

didnt kno 2 seat rego was cheaper...god dammit! 3 years driving round with 6 point cage and intrusion bars, not once had i been asked about it. recently pulled front section out, half cage now remains, was finally fed up looking like i was climbing a jungle gym everytime i got in or out...

Hey everyone, just wanting to get a ballpark cost figure for a standard rebuild on a RB25 box. Nothing fancy just synchros etc are pretty worn going from 3rd to 4th, have to double clutch always these days. Was always a bit notchy when i got the car 3.5 yrs ago and a fair number of track days have taken its toll on it now. No idea who is well recognised in doing skyline boxes, any suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers.