agentx

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403824-fuel-cutting-off-or-something-else/

its revving over 2500 fine, and did an ecu diagnostic and got 55 - all good there too. Is it still worth replacing the AFM or is the AFM like an ON/OFF thing (works or doesnt)? Thanks mate

Just finished a diagnostic - it was 55 (all clear) but surprising find ... when i took the ECU out, the light wasn't actually on till I played around with the adjustment screw! In the r32 (Type M), the EGT acts as the check engine light (confirmed now) so when I turned the ignition on, that EGT light wasn't actually turning on (and obviously the LED wasn't either)... What could that mean? Anyway i adjusted the screw after the diagnostic and made sure it (as well as the EGT) was in a constant ON position before i put the ECU back in. Did a ecu reset (by disconnecting battery) and went for a spin and now its a bit better but still definately hesitating on certain RPMs across the range, its more like a flat spot now but once it takes off ... it takes off. Next is to test fuel pressure and then AFM. Its so frustrating, I've called numerous workshops and asked that i JUST want to check fuel pressure but none of them want to do it, they all say drop the car off and leave it and we'll diagnose the issue etc etc. I don't want that, ALL i want is to check fuel pressure dammit! might buy a gauge and do it myself lol

Yea doing a diagnostic tonight - if thats all good then next step will be as you've said GoHard - I'm going to be slightly annoyed if it is the fuel pump!! Ignitor will be checked too...

Checked the above, no apparant leaks etc after a thorough inspection - and CAS is tight. Took AFM off and did the dry solder fix, the car is now hesitating for a few seconds initially under load but once i back off the throttle and ease into it again, it goes fine =/ if it was the AFM, it wouldn't be fine after that would it? Goes fine even till 7k rpm after that and pulls fine.. The EGT light is coming on alot now, next step will be the ECU diagnostic unless anyone else has any other suggestions?

No one drinks beer here?

Aircon pulley? That was the issue with mine - Noise was constant though, I ended up thinking its the turbo and changing the bloody turbo before identifying the problem

Perfect - thanks mate

Hi guys - following the soldering AFM fix, can you please look at the things marked in red, should I put a dry solder on to that as well like the rest of them or leave it as is, just funny that ONE out of all of them didn't have anything on it... http://i45.tinypic.com/1416uly.jpg Also when I sprayed contact cleaner on it, theres a thin white film around some parts, that should be fine yea? Thanks guys

Hey guys - just wondering if someone in the south east has the consult cable / program to check error codes and an r32 / rb20 AFM so i can check if mine is effed 6 pack of your favourite beer for your troubles p.s. I'm in Box Hill so somewhere close by would be awesome!

Hi guys - need a working stock airflow meter for an r32 ASAP in Victoria, preferably somewhere in the south east? Pm me ASAP!

Still researching in the past threads, and someone actually wrote that the EGT sensor light in r32 doubles as a check engine light too??

Would it rev fine on Idle though if it was the afm?

Oh also, the car is an rb20 with stock ecu (dr drift remap) and exhaust, stock turbo ... no major mods. Injectors are stock too

Hi guys - was searching through alot of posts for the past few hours, this problem started happening around a week ago and has gotten worse since. Symptoms: Car doesn't start first time around If I push on the throttle even slightly, it feels like the fuel supply has cut off ... ONLY happens under load not while stationary Car turns off from time to time at traffic lights etc Drives sluggish but ok at a steady speed, i.e. if I'm going on the freeway at 100 or on a street at 60 while keeping the throttle stationary. Things I've changed: Spark plugs, properly gapped Cleaned AFM Inspected coil packs (yellow jackets with less than 1000 km on them) Cleaned most contacts with contact cleaners Changed fuel filter The fuel pump sounds like its priming, the old fuel pump was replaced with a new walbro unit less than 1000 km ago from dr drift, could that still be a culprit? From what i've explained, does this sound like a fuel issue or could be something else? The only other thing i've noticed is a light on the HUD coming on alot more than it used to, here's the pic ... http://i45.tinypic.com/2m7axap.jpg ... I was told last time that this means a collapsed CAT? Would a collapsed CAT cause these symptoms? I put in a used (good quality) CAT around 2000 km's ago. I'll take it to a mechanic as soon as I can but thought i'd check here for some friendly advice =) Thanks guys!

:rofl2:

hah yea I had a similar nightmare with another car - ended up spending more than I would've on a new full exhaust system!

one last silly question though - its not necessary to get a tune after a dump and a cooler is it?

ok thanks guys - really helpful info!

ok thanks for your help guys - will be getting a 32gtr cooler and a custom dump pipe soon, and we'll go from there =) Cheers

Does FMIC really show gains? I thought it was more for the wank factor unless you're running numbers over 220 (from what i read on the forums). I don't have one. I haven't driven it properly yet thanks to Melbourne weather (you know what I mean if you're here ) but it drives a LOT smoother in the lower revs and power delivery is much smoother.

Hmm ok - I might just be expecting too much also clutch is fairly new and CAT was put in 2 months ago so that will be fine. Next on my list is the dump and a bigger CAT though - guess different dyno's make different figures also though. Motor is in tip top condition! P.S: Car is Manual

Hi guys; Been reading the power thread and seems like all of the R32s with r33 turbo upgrades are getting 190-210 rwkw, I got a tune done today at Sam (Dr Drift), first run we got 116kw after fixing a few small boost leaks etc. After that we found the fuel pump was rooted so replaced that with a Walbro, had a dr drift chip which got retuned. Turned the boost on 15 pounds, played with timing and final figure came out at 159kw. Car mods include 3 inch exhaust (stock dump / CAT). R33 turbo, boost controller and yellow jackets coil pack (and now walbro fuel pump). Just wondering where the power loss could be? Or am I confusing between normal kw and rwkw? Do all dyno's measure rwkw? Sam said skyline's normally make around 100 rwkw? Are those 200ish figures with minimal mods the same figure as rwkw (100 stock?) Sorry if some of the questions are noobish, just thought I'd clarify btw - not like Sam doesn't already have enough plugs, he's the best mechanic I've dealt with so far - and I've gone to a few. Well worth the 1.5 hours each way I travelled

yea came with something of that sort - unfortunately this was someone cutting the front tyre with a knife or something , huge cut on the outside wall, not a normal puncture kids these days! thanks for your help!

ok so turns out its a ford fiesta 2010 (its a 19 yo chick, don't ask me why she said Toyota first) lol. Now according to the dealers, these cars don't actually come with a spare wheel! They're asking for $500 for a spare wheel and a jack lol. The PCD is 108, i've Googled ... so now do I specifically need to get a 4x108 wheel? (again, sorry if this is a stupid question) Thanks again