agentx

Since May mate ... completely skipped my mind! as for shaking, fk that I didn't show any emotions, I was on my way back from a home game (poker) at a mates and won $500 there ... it wasn't really about the cash, more about how much the fine is compared to other fines, skipping a red light and risking T-boning and killing multiple people = less fine ... way to go. But yea the only reason I was emotionless and not pissed off at them is because I didn't want them to open the hood

Not complaining but I need to vent my frustration. I forgot to pay rego on the skyline (I could've sworn i paid it but i've checked my accounts etc and I missed it). $590 fine straight away. I just paid the rego ($620) and will put the fine on installments but isn't it a bit steep to fine someone $600 bucks for this? Drink driving is less in some cases and crossing a red light etc etc i understand it has implications (e.g. with insurance etc) but if they see a genuine case they should let me off with a warning? Great driving history and always paid rego etc etc Ruined my weekend + overseas trip im taking shortly, gotta sell stuff off now! Catching a cab and leaving my baby on the freeway = extra fail btw this was on the eastern last night 4:30 am in the booze bus area in case someone saw me

Hey mate, would you have the front passenger indicator? (near the headlight?) also do you still have the exhaust? and the drivers side air vent? (near the door)

Hi mate; i'll get another thermostat and test it out but the problem is the performance while cold, not really how long it takes to get to warm level ... it shouldn't just be cold start ... i know performance is slightly decreased when the engine is cold but this is a definite fault. cheers

anyone?

thanks for all these responses guys! to answer a few questions, the car was performing perfectly till about a few months back (no major work done before this started happening). The hesitation isnt just the car underperforming due to the engine being cold (Ive worked with cars for quite some time now, this is definitely a fault). The problem takes around 10-12 minutes of driving to resolve and the gauge to come half way. To describe the hesitation a bit further, if you constantly have the accelerator pressed with the same amount of force and the rpm keeps increasing, as soon as it hits 2200 rpm, it feels like the fuel supply has stopped and the exhaust note changes and it feels like someones let the accelerator go all of a sudden, and then if you give it some more gas ... it goes above that 2200 rpm spot and starts to accelerate again. I mildly suspect my CAT is not in perfect condition (collapsed maybe?) Im getting that checked out in a week or so ... but i dont see how that can affect this at the same RPM and only till the car warms up? I have changed plugs and bought brand new coil packs as well in the last 2 months. fuel filter has been changed. fuel pump is another suspect you reckon?

thanks for your reply, but how would an o2 sensor be fine after hitting 2200 rpm or half way temp mark (not trying to be smart, just want to know the connection) Cheers

Hi guys, I need a bit of help troubleshooting something. my rb20 r32 hesitates unless i give it alot of throttle till the engine temp gauge hits half way mark. It literally stops hesitating as soon as it hits EXACTLY half way mark. And also the hesitation is always till the 2200 rpm mark, it goes away if i go over 2200 rpm and goes away completely as soon as the car reaches half way on the temp gauge... After reading around, the likely suspects are temp sensor / fuel pump / CAT sensor / TPS, i just cant figure out which ones fit the criteria described above, anyone have any ideas? What should i replace first? Cheers

bump?

bump

thanks alot fellaz. I did increase the boost a bit so I guess it makes sense. lucky i havent gunned it ever since i saw that light come on. Only came on 2-3 times intermittently. gonna goto a dyno and get boost upped properly.

guys I've been searching Google and this site for an hour now! cannot find what light this is ... oil pressure light is usually different so whats this it comes on intermittantly and keeps going on and off etc.

bump

Hi guys; I've just upgraded to yellow jackets ... I thought my coils were messed up (one of them had a spring missing inside etc) but the yellow jackets haven't made a huge improvement. So i'm selling the old ones. They worked fine on the car (you might wanna replace the spring if you really want ... springs are easy as to find. I can post them anywhere for around 8 bucks or you can pick them up from the Box Hill area. Looking at offers over $50. cheers

It's manual

Hey guys, I've got a 3 . 1/4 inch exhaust system on my car ... its waaaay to big for my application (running 7 psi atm). I was wondering if there's anyone here who wants to upgrade from a 2.5 system? Mine's got a cannon at the end of it. Located in Melbourne, let me know. Cheers

I heard somewhere that the vacuum line to the boost controller should be as short as possible? Anyway I went yesterday and had the cooler pipe from the turbo tapped and chucked the hose in there Thanks for answering though.

how many threads do you want posted here that have the SAFC for more then 300? 250 is considered to be a good price ... not being greedy, if you read the fkn post you'd realize that I actually paid $325 ... I didn't say I wanted $300. I did a quick search on ebay and performanceforums etc and found numerous threads with the lowest being 290 and highest being 340. Back on topic by someone who actually has something to do with the thread ... you can come pick it up for $250 mate (since I've seen someone selling it for 250 now ...). I work in Box Hill ... whereabouts are ya?

hey guys, i know this has been covered a few times but I just can't seem to find the specific bit of info I'm after (i've gone through 3 pages of threads ...). I'm in the process of connecting a boost controller (the blue T-piece one). I'm trying to figure out the vacuum line connections ... I've got the wastegate running a vacuum line from it to one of the vacuum lines (near the emission control box). I thought this was supposed to be connected to a compressed air side? (from what I've read?). It's an after market turbo which doesn't have a nipple on it and neither does my stock inter cooler piping. Now the question is, from the actuator, I'll run a line to the controller ... and from there, do i HAVE to get a nipple screwed on to the cooler piping (charged air side) or can I connect that line to some other little nipple on the rb20 (one that's screwed shut or something?). Thanks for the help!

Well i payed $325 for it ... Just did a quick search on diff forums and they go for arnd $300 these days? Your thoughts?

Hey mate, saw you're advert just in time ... I had added spitfires into my cart lol. Can you please check my PM? messaging you now ...

hey man, got what you're after ... SAFC - II. Bought it from a workshop about 6 months ago, been sitting in my dash every since. Now i need to fork out 500 for new coil packs can't afford to put it in and mod away. I'll have to stay satisfied with 8 psi for now lol. Lemme know how much you're offering. Cheers

would you wanna sell the coil packs off the spare engine?

looks like a nice clean car mate ... but I'm after something else ... Just so I dont waste anyone's time, here are some requirements (because I'm willing to put cash on top) Something comfortable newish (atleast 2002 + etc), I can manage to add 3-6 thousand on top of my car for something that I'm after. Something that needs no work...

Car's in Box Hill VIC. Sorry but if I'm correct Fj40's are 4wd jeep kind of things yea? I'm after something cruisy / comfortable (hence why I'm swapping the skyline). I just don't wanna spend any more on it and it's really wasting away with the big turbo and safc sitting in etc