R31 POWER

naga. Your actuator looks like a stock rb25det one. Try a r32 rb20det one!

FARK YES!

The gfs 33 is the same. Im certain nissan sell a replacement pipe?? Should be able to bash it out with a screw driver and hammer.

Get some 50mm x 50mm 4/5mm flat bar x2, drill hole in middle and put between the center bearing bracket and floor. That should fix it. Even test with washers to see first if you don't have flat bar.

Snozzle. I had redline light weight in the 33 with unknown kms. Smashed in some castrol syntrans or syntrax (the pricey synthetic one) and it was fuxed. All gears felt like crap. Crunching, grinding all with NORMAL driving. So i dumped it ($100 worth of oil) and put in the light weight that i saved All sweet except it now crunched going into 5th hmmmmm. Fast forward 8 months or so of this and i had enough Put in new light weight and it's crunched once into 5th in 3months instead of every couple of days. I say no to castrol!!

Hamish, if they are S1 lights, no

Sounds about right. I can hold 0.8bar to redline on low boost. It's good if the gf drives it but then even on that boost it's quick LOL. Im thinking a little more preload on the actuator might stop these turbos falling off boost high in the revs. Every dyno sheet over 18psi does it

Nice result Whats the lowest boost you can run?

Why is the oil green?

Sounds very weird. 1 gallon went in the 33 about a month ago and it hasn't spat any out. Is there a batch number on the bottles??

Anti surge cover will make it whistle it's tits off. Send it back

How did you go dude?

Easy as. - Undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder in the engine bay. - Get a torch and pull the pin on the clutch cylinder rod. - Unplug the clutch pedal switch - Undo bolt pointing straight up hold pedal box. Wiggle it out. Should take about about 30mins first time.

f**k i love this thing! Reminds me of Knight Rider looking at the front hahaha.

I must admit it was only a quick stab. Going from dyno sheets on here boost will never hold that high to redline. Still it felt good hahaha.

Slightly off topic but HKS GT2835 Pro S talk. Little play with the Apexi boost controller brought this on in second or third from memory.

Sometimes i could drop 1st and 2nd, sometimes not. Id give it a week to sort it self and it would be ok for a few days. If i beat up on it to long it would slip. It went like this for 3 months

I just went through all this thinking the same. Mine open wheels some time as well. It was the clutch after all, and after the exedy button put in it's fine. The old clutch had meat still on the pucks but couldn't hold the power.

Yes it looks like it has a hub ring.

Small fuel stain.

Trozzle i had the same problem! I thought i was the only one haha. Had smurfs blood that i thought was old, changed to castrol syntrans or syntrax (the expensive one) and it was shiit. Crunched nearly every gear and was just horrible to dvive. Actually dumped the oil and binned it while putting my old smurfs blood back in which made it all good again!

Bummer man I always like reading the new posts in this thread but not this time! Whats the plan now?

You just got to remember that getting hub centric spacers dont fit all! Wheels have different bore sizes so be careful.

Farken hell man. Dirty dogs.

Burn it.