XRATED

bummer... could be worse though.

Weldon USA. :-)

24-1 cas disk smooths out the signal significantly. Not as accurate as a propped crank trigger, but a huge improvement (I did upgrade the keyway spine at the same time). J.

What was rail pressure when it was tuned?

Suggestions.... N2O

2 of the big ones..... And he needs them tonight.

Dude... you put the engine in with out the intake manifold... Giggles. Do you like to hit your head with a hammer while you eat ice cream? Its my analogy for trying to fit an aftermarket plenum to an rb26 in a 32. Cheers J.

You should be able to use the 1 slot in the 24:1 CAS disk as your home signal and run a crank position sensor. This means you can run a standard cam cover and CAS as well as the accuracy of a proper crank pick up (this is what I'll be doing). Id also suggest you get whatever work you need to do to fit the crank sensor done now while the engine is out.... it's a severe PITA to remove an rb26!

I've had good experience with a 24-1 CAS disk and haltech pro 2000 over 500hp. It's not as clean as a crank pick up, but much better than the stock CAS disk. PITA to fit through. J.

Are you for serial? I can only assume your new to this whole thing... a few weeks is nothing to wait for import parts. The boys do an amazing job of servicing our niche. Imagine the sheer volume of calls and emails on a daily basis, its not reasonable to think they will actively track every aspect of every order, for each customer, every time they call/email. Yes, I have had my own small business as well... My experience has been nothing but exceptional service, timely communication, great prices and flexibility from Kudos. J.

Freakin Awesome!!!

Your plugs will more than likely to be covered in junk by now.... this will cause the increase severity of the misfire problem. You can learn a lot from pulling the plugs and 'reading' them (although it may be to late now). I'd suggest you pull them asap and post up photo's (keep them in order). Replace the plugs and at least you will be able to drive it again for a few km's. Honestly I can't see your O2 sensor being the problem (just unplug it if you aren't sure), fuel filter is a good service item, but unlikely to stop you from miss firing. A wide band is only going to help if the mixtures are actually getting burnt.... as soon as it misses, you will just get rich afr's off the scale- I'd be buying/borrowing a new coil pack loom and a known good ignition module before buying another set of coil packs. If you still have issues, pull the injectors and get them cleaned/flow tested. after that... take it to a mechanic.

Do you want more power or go faster? I love rb20's with the best of them, but given the age and it's de of, I think you're right on the money at a reasonably easy 210rwkw. To get more power with same or similar response will almost certainly create more exhaust back pressure and higher egt's which is bad news for your de valves and pistons as compared to a det. By the time you are make enough more power to out weight the increased lag of a larger turbo, you'll be leaning on the de a bit too hard. A nice flat curve 210rwkw rb20 will in most instances just as quick as a 260rwkw rb20 on the street... on average, it's probably quicker up to legal speed limits. Add to that, the couple of grand it will cost to go external.... you could find a stagea neo and sell your current set up to fund a high flow. Cheers J.

If you've tried other sets of coils with no result then, a new set is unlikely to fix your issue. As Scotty has said, power supply and ground for the coils make an amazing difference. Your comments about issue improving post coating the coil pack boots.......... I'd try a new coil pack loom, clean your grounding points and/or add an additional ground cable from the back of the head to the battery and add a larger (fused) power wire directly from the battery to the new loom. Clean or swap the ignitor module. It is odd, spark will usually blow out under peak load and get worse with more throttle and boost. Leaking fuel injector or poor throttle/accel pump tune or damaged fpr ? Could be flooding to the point of misfire during vac and transition to boost. I lived and worked in Alice many years ago (had an hr31), so I can empathise. Back then, the local Toyota dealership had a dyno and would tune (mostly Finke buggy's etc) performance cars/buggy's etc.

either would I, but IF he's is getting hotter than usual oil temps- just cruising... I agree, it's more than likely a gauge/sensor re-location change that is displaying different temps.

Isn't time a funny thing... 10 years ago, people would point and scream liar at a 300kw rb25 with stock manifolds. Rack? Or Crack?

Sounds like a leak under vacuum. Injector caps, injector manifold seals, Tb shaft seal. Stuck, busted nrv on the brake booster or pcv valve. Been loosing any coolant? Is the keyway flogged out in the CAS/ camshaft drive? Does the Toyota dealership still have a Dyno? Pfc's are prone to dry sockets on the boards, can throw up similar issues.... usually more consistent.

If it is a temp issue (as opposed to sensor/gauge ect), picking up a bearing can result in high oil temps at low rpm/load. Post some pic's of the oil cooler set up. Cheers J

For the sake of simplicity, fitting a stock replacement/highflow is by far the easiest option... a few hours, bam done! Hyper gear is a good way to go, I'm sure Sato can build you something to suit your application... Being an Na engine, there is something to be said for potentially lower back pressure and egt's that can be achieved with the right external gate and turbo for the same power. If you go a kando, you have to fabricate new pipe work and exhaust, so you might as well go external gate too... I haven't seen an internal gate kando work well n any set up I've seen yet. Either way, it's going to be hard to get a much better set up for the street with a stock rb20det and an op6 rb25 turbo. If you want more for the track or a bit of fun, have a decent nitrous kit fitted and tuned for the same money.... another 70rwkw and less lag Cheers J.

... was about to switch over the comedy channel. No need, Thank you or filling my quota of LOLs for the day. Cheers J.

First off, just swapping to a GTX isn't simple. Secondly... there are a couple dozen significant reasons why 'my car doesn't make as much power as everyone else on the internets...' least of which the owners expectations. Want a dyno sheet with more powers? go find a happy dyno elsewhere, then post on here how many more killer wasps were found lurking under the rocker covers. What DO you expect from a cheap return flow cooler kit? 500awkw J.

wow... is it the end of august already?

He's in merca... The Louisiana cops are more likely to book him for street racing when parked in a Wal-Mart car park (because he drives a skyline- the rare and mysterious street terrorising import) then receiving a defect sticker. In my opinion, you will see some top end gains with the hypertune manifold... but most outweigh the cost v's the benefit in performance. If it's for the looks, weeellll- shure why not. J.

... I like the orange? ooor 732 metallic black :-)

What ever change you make, you will more than likely have to get a touch up on the tune. All the Nissan tps's I've played with have all been 0-5v sweep and most are the same plug, but can differ in pin configuration. So choosing a tb and tps should be reasonably easy as long as your willing to do a little testing with a multi meter and are handy with a soldering iron. A VH45de tb will bolt up to the manifold without the use of an adapter, too big, but simpler and incorporates a wax cold idle arrangement (I deleted the stock iac valve and used this instead) Other than that a stock rb25det tb on the adapter should be fine