XRATED

remove everything you can out of the car fit the best tyres you can afford 1/2 tank of fuel Wouldn't bother with a burn out unless your on drag tyres Redline atf. 10psi of boost with boost T Get as much temperature out if you can before each run (take a garden sprayer to cool down the intercooler and radiator) think 14 second quarters if it's a very well driven solid car... aaaand nitrous fixes everything!

... yeah. ... probably not how I would do it, but ok.

Tomei pump- Oil restricter- Mines baffes and vented 2-4lt catch can Walbro 460 in tank pump BCPR7ES- .8 plugs Plumb back the waste gate... properly Exhaust is a hard one... bigger you go, louder it is... quieter, more restrictive. 400+ rwkw- 3.5" minimum or 4" with as many good quality mufflers as you can get under it. Simples...

... I'd be more worried about the standard gearbox.

I'm not saying it's all bad... it's just what I choose to do to protect my fuel system. umm... the definition of hydroscopic is "(of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air." so yeah it does kinda "just suck moisture out of the air" ...and considering I don't keep a full tank of e85 and the tank isn't sealed... I take steps. Not bashing e85, I love it! ... but every positive has a negative. E85 is cheaper, can produce more power and smells nice.... there must be a down side?

. so this is what I would do. Buy 2x long radius stainless reducing cones 80mm to 90mm. Buy 2x 3.5" stainless exhaust flanges with gaskets and bolts. Cut the step down and flanges off the exhaust and front pipes. Cut the reducing cones at the right diameters to adapt the metric exhaust tube to the 3.5" flanges... the size difference will probably be a few mm. Weld (remember to clock the flanges correctly). Cheers J.

pleeease.. remove the thread tape from those AN fittings on your fpr.

Forgot to add I use stabilizer in the 98. The e85 is hydroscopic and also drys out lines, tank, filters when empty. I put the 98 in to lube everything up and slow the moisture ingress. If I drove the car every day... I wouldn't bother.

Well... I'm glad you had a good run with it. I've never doubted it works... Basic holly/now gear worked great for my gtr for several years 2004/6. Wasn't particularly efficient and was impossible to rebuild the solenoids... but it worked. I'll still stand by my comments... I personally choose not to risk expensive/any engines anymore with inferior nitrous gear and would suggest others do the same. Buying cheap/inferior nitrous gear, to me it's kind of like buying a cheap oem replacement rb oil pump... it'll work, but how well and how long will it last before it tears up a modified engine? Cheers J.

.. this is true. ... unfortunately it's been my experience that doing it right, often isn't the cheapest way to do it. ... weren't you running WON gear?

... for future reference, nitrous fixes everything.

get an r31 manual wagon and throw a set of wheels and suspension under it... cheap, fun, practical and when (not if) you crash it, you won't care...

I run the e85 out of the tank and put 20lt of 98 in to flush the system... my drift car sits for a few months at a time between floggings/

What's the plans for squeeze? Full WON REVO set up? Fantastic build so far... damn those gudgeon pins are thick! Much buggering about bolting an rb head and crank to the rd28 block? Cheers J.

...you know why

... nitrous fixes everything!

By the way you have written your opening posts, your running head first into it (like we all do).... and I have impressed upon you the scope of a build (in dollars, not to mention the time) you are talking about. What you have said is somewhat contradictory though... why use obviously cheap and inferior parts for a 'reliable' build, why go a full tilt 3.4lt build for a 'strong car' ... why choose a 1000hp capable turbo that IS going to be laggy- when you're stating '700hp and less lag'? ... so I get to my last comment. Have a little think about what you want out of the car, do the research and choose components based on what you out of your car (as best as you can afford) within reason. Gearbox... again comes down to what your actual goals are, what you intend to use the car for and what your budget is. If you want a fast, reliable, easy street car that is very capable on the track... look at an r34 GTR conversion with the stock r32 GTR gearing. If you want to drag race, throw a 2 speed power glide in it. I do like the colour... have fun with it, because building a GTR is a rewarding experience. Cheers J.

... way too new school for an rb20.

... $60,000 build. If you think you will finish it for much less than that your kidding yourself. ...20-25k on a 3.4 stroker engine and bolt on's and you're going to cheap out on a manifold and gate? Set some goals, set out a budget and build something achievable for you.... a 60% car that runs is a lot more fun than a 99% car that's in bits still. Cheers J.

T88 34d... Killer

just buy a nissan leaf for a DD...

Looks the goods... what kind of dollars are they asking for the kit?

... just don't try and do it cheaply.

RB Auto bell housing with a machined spacer/adapter flange? or cut and weld two halves t56 to rb manual housings?

.... please tell me there are some go faster mods already? I'll buy one the day I can 'tune' one! Honestly I don't care too much for range, just torque! And surprising some dirty xr6T's!