XRATED

MORE FUEL!!!! MORE BOOST!!!!

Match it to the gaskets (on the inside) that go with the turbo's your putting on. Then get it extrude honed for max flow. I made 398rwkw with dead stock ex-manifolds with T517Z's tho. If you've got them off, dooo iiiittt.

Pods out flow an ARC box, and they both need ducting. Pod, with a heat shield and a good cold air feed. Or just take out the headlight!!! ha ha ha.

Boosting the stock twins wont last too long. Get yourself a set of good secondhand 33 or 34 N1's, or re-build/high flow the stock turbo's with steel rear wheels at least. Tune it and have some slideways fun!

My vote is still for a 32 rb25de. You can modify the rest of the aspects of the car while you'r on your P's. Modify it for some weekend track/club day fun. That way you can learn how to drive, learn how effective each and every mod can be on the street and track: Good set of wheels and tyres 33 gts-t brakes with reasonable street pads Re-shim diff Good set of coilovers Nolothane bushings Adjustable rear camber arms Front castor rods Rack ends GTR seats Oil pressure guage Water temp guage Boost guage (ha ha ha teasing) 1/2 cage (if it's legal in your state) Tint Good clutch 33 gtst gearbox Radiator with internal oil cooler Accusump N/A engine mods, that can be used for forced induction too. RB30 bottom end: Prepped crank, rods and forged pistons. With good bolts, ballanced and all cleances checked. Good oil pump, new timing belt and tensioner. Head: Basic head re-build, clean up the ports, port match the intake and exhaust, shave the head and use a thin head gasket for more static compression... 10:1 ish ( use a thicker head gasket with boost). Nistune in the stock ecu, then re-tune to suit. Even adapt a set of GTR throttle bodies and intake manifold if you get keen. NA: Pod with a cold air intake, good set of extractors and a quiet 2.5" exhaust and play with the cam timing. Modifing your car is fun and addictive... be warned! ha ha ha.

I started and drove my GTR 12km to my tuner with 850's and rb20 afm's. If it's been a year... Could be lots of things bud. GL

Nitrous Oxide! it will bring it on REAL quick! 3lt bottom end will too. Port work and cams Higher static CR Better bottomend/off boost tuning Cam gear adjustment Ball bearing core and billet comp wheel Methanol and a bunch of timing Wire the wastegate shut Bigger/better dump pipe and exhaust set up Heavier right foot Get a bigger actuator before you get an EBC. OR Live with it... you have to sacrifice somthing for more power.

Or stick a 2J in a Hi Ace van... They won't bother lifting the front seats... you'l just get a fine for exibition os speed and bald tyres instead.

Maybe try a set of extractors or even a stock NA exhaust manifold on the exhaust. I'm shure you'll pick up some torque over the abortion that's hanging off the side of your head now. Then throw it on a dyno and try advancing the base timing? Otherwise take it to another mechanic, get the turbo put back on and sell the car! Buy a barina.

You'll need to modify the manifold... BUT DOOO IIITTT..... Use the stock 25 manifold, cut off the throttle body flange, remove all the injection gear then weld up the injector holes, weld on a side draft flange, bolt on a large side draft carbie. OR an LPG set up. Ignition? Modify a cam gear to run an rb30 distributor off the front (speedway guys running vh's or lexas v8's do a similar thing), then run the ignition al-la rb30. It just has to spin 1:1 rotor button to crank. Get a set of extractors, then mess with the cam timing to get the best low down torque results. Just make shure you run some reasonable compression and tune it as well as you can (with LPG or carbie), if you go with LPG you can use alot more static compression. Doooooo iiiiiiittt!!!! + if you get bored with it, drill and tap the injector holes, thread in a set of nitrous foggers and run 150hp of nitrous/fuel into the thing.

I have to ask... whats it for? a ceramic mould and plug... then cast it? machine it on a lathe from solid round stock? machine up a steel ID size cone, screw one edge of the ally sheet to the length of the cone, then heat and fold/bash the plate around it until it overlaps, cut it along the overlap, fold flat and weld the seam, then cut the ends where required.... GL bud. J.

I love it... man these threads get crazier and crazier!!! Is it school holidays? Just move to Tassie... you can drive whatever you like on your P's. I used to drive a 300hp R31 coupe on my P's.... That was 12 years ago tho. Ha ha ha. I'm working in and around the US/Carib, there are plenty of underslung turbo cars getting around. I have even seen turbo disguised in a large muffler box under the back of a Q45. If I was a sneaky 17yo. I'd probably start with getting a job. Then get a tidy NA 32 with a rb25de. Leave it unopened, get stock gtr injectors and stock fuel rail/reg. Mount a precision turbo billet 5557 where the rear muffler normally sits, hide it in a large muffler case, run the intake into the boot, use the defunked hicas lines for the oil supply and return (with a small scavenger pump to return the oil), bolt a short- quiet muffler to the dump, run a thin water to air barrell intercooler with a stelthy black radiator up front, run un painted mild steel 2" pipe for a charge pipe up into the stock airbox, through it and inside the stock plastic intake tube to the throttle body. Re-tune the ecu and have fun. Oh and stick a turbo whistler on the exhaust tip... for the authentic turbo sound! OR Hide a 150hp shot of nitrous and two bottles! Good luck.

+1 For Ba ha ha ha ha ha ha.... Seriously???

the transfer case and yes!

RB20AFM's will plug straight into a stock 32GTR harness (same plugs).... good for 400+rwkw worth of resolution. It will start on a stock computer but don't drive it before it's re-tuned. J.

Dude... don't touch it. Get it towed to a qualified mechanic! Seriously... if it comes out with the oil, it's waaaaay too late.

+1 for the trust pipes... I have them, I love them... fitt perfectly.

Ha ha ha ha ha... yeah. We don't get down that far. There seems to be quite a skyline/nissan/import scene going on down there... I know a couple of guys in Florida that send alot of gear and built rb's down your way. Might have to check it out some time. For my GF's rb25, we cut a hole in the center of the collector, then welded a mounting plate directly to the manifold, bolted a 38mm turbosmart wastegate on and plumbed it back into the exhaust. J.

What Island are you on bro? We'll be docked in Sint Maarten/St Barths for a while. If you go with the stock manifold, take the time to match port it to a set of gaskets at least. If you can, get someone to media blast the inside too with some fairly aggressive abrasive. Good luck.

Anyone have hard data on Motul shelf life in an opened but sealed drum? Cheers J.

Us southerners get shafted for dealer choice... If Dirtman cant help, call godzilla motorsport.

Where in Vic are you? Where do the rear arm pads bolt to (parcell shelf or rear wheel arches)? Cheers J.

Is it a 31 coupe or a 32 (you have a 32 in your sig) with an auto spoiler? I had a narrow core made up to fit above the auto spoiler motors back in the day with my r31 gts-x. As for the smic into the water to air... I wouln't bother, I'm only guessing but I think you'll find some nasty flow restriction and turbulance... Not to mention all the extra plumbing. If you want to stick with the smic, maybe look at making it more efficient. Bigger-better duct work (In and out), thermo fan on the backside of the core, water-meth spray onto the core on boost (I used to use the rear window washer motor and a boost switch- watermeth works well on your windscreen too). Water to air coolers are great too... but unless you can hide the cooler barell and large front mounted radiator it's going to look modified anyway. Why re-invent the wheel? Sell the smic, buy a core that will fit and paint it black and make up some plumbing that utilises the stock engine bay plumbing (so it looks stock when you open the bonnet). http://www.otomoto.com.au/kkr/intercoolers/index.html http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1 Good luck J.

If your super worried about the rust, get it sand blasted. Then ceramic coat it if you want it to be pretty. I'd also port match the thing to a set of new gaskets, then clean up the casting marks etc ( on the inside ).

just looking for poeples ideas and opinions for a good strong engine/gearbox combo that might be able to handle what I do...... Loads of racers in the buggie classes run SR20's and they are virtually bullet proof........ Anything can be made to fit !!!!! cheers nige There are loads of boat and buggie motorsport vehicles utilising VH41/45 VK56 V8's. What sort of hp torque were you looking for? what sort of climate will you be racing in? If you plan running forced induction in hot climates have a good look at methanol. Have a look at this for some ideas: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/323706 J.