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Everything posted by XRATED
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Hey bud. Yer I raced with 28psi 50hp shot of gas and 393rwkw. My ignition set up was fine at that power level, even with the gas. If u do need more ignition power, use an HKS module or even a multi channel msd ignition system... I wouldn't be so worried about screwing more power from it at this stage tho. Get the set up right, then lean on it. The set up is going totally depend on how much u wan't to sacrifice the origional car. I allways wanted a nice, fast street car, not just a drag car (as a GTR isn't the ideal drag platform- to fkn heavy for a start!) and that's what I ended up with. A few points tho. 1. if u stay manual, buy a ppg helical cut dog gear set, as u'll just destroy anything else even a x-gear set u'll tear appart. 2. Get a set of adj traction arms, rear camber adj and a good set of tyres. Zero toe, zero to one deg negative camber (and a set of good condition stock struts all round) would be a good start to work from. 3. Get rid of the coilovers 4. Get a GTR diff and axles and a 2way 5. Purely to get the twins to spinn up, gas is allways a great option. Other ways yoy could optimise the set up would include obviously a built and or stroked 3 to 3.3lt rb30 bottom end, closer ratio g-box/diff, gas!, auto/converter/diff combo, higher cr and race fuel, full weight reduction, propperly ported head can even bring a set of turbines on lower in the rev range... I found the best launch was to load up on the handbrake as much as I could then... I could write 16 pages, but I'll keep it short. As it's so hot here in the Caribbean. ha ha ha Justin Either way, you'll need to decide how far ur going to comprimise ur car to optimise the engine setup you've chosen.
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That is the coolest rb25 I have ever seen.... NICE 1 Rob! Hey man give us the run down.... It would have been sweet to see in action. When (IF) I get back to Aus I'd love to check it out man.
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http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/FS-rb20...er-t183371.html
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The first tank of 98 I ran in the GTR I had to pull a couple of degrees out of it because it was pinging a bit so.... could be. I'm assuming that Kutzie is tuning the thing to the point just before detonation. And that the detonation is the limmiting factor for your combination. It's obviously not the dyno, I doubt it would be Kutzie's operation. That leaves ur car... I could be a lot of different things. It could quite possibly have a higher static comp ratio. Or silly things like a dodgy injector, a wrong set of spark plugs (often the tips heat up to a point where they induce detonation), a broken or damaged spark plug. If it's been re-built, dose it have a DET head? Has somone f**ked around with the combustion chambers or ports?? You could be getting hot spots at the point of combustion. Do you have an unknown blockage in ur exhaust system (stuffed cat or muffler can cause so much back preassure in the housing, heats up the exhaust valvesw and induces detonation), intake or charge pipes. Do you still have a stock crank case breather set up? It's not uncommon for a rebuit engine to breath a little heavier (depending on the way the builder set gaps and clearances) and if you have those lines going back into ur intake that can induce detonation. Maybe get urself an oil air seperator or catch can. It could be lots of things...... OR You just got a dodgy tank of fuel. I can vouch for the fresh tank at BP in Kingston atm. Oh by the way. If you do take it to another dyno and the operator dosn't have a super keen ear or a Knock Box (Head Phones and amplifier to listen for pre-detonation)... with ur car, wich is super prone to detonation... You might be building urself another motor. Plus, if u do get a higher reading on another dyno, it still dosn't mean you have more power. If I had ur problem, I'd replace my plugs, use a very good oil and filter, drop my exhaust and check the cat, take my pipe work apart and have a look, run another tank of 98 through it then take it back, strap it down and see what happens... you'll know quite quickly if it'll make more power. Sory about the long post.
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Well if u can do that. Then what dose it matter what a piece of paper says? What did Andy say? I'm happy my car runs 10's on street tyres more than it has a 393rwkw dyno sheet...
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I hear that!! My old GTS-X was an ass of a thing to work with!!! The GTR is actually easier for some things... But working on them is half the fun!
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27rwkw is a huge gain! Puting ur car on another dyno ISN'T going to make ur car have more power... Comparitivly, that dose seem quite low however. How dose it feel on the road? Do you get hammered by corolla's?? A full weight gts-t with 130rwkw would feel a little slugish... I'd like to know what Andy said? hmm...
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Aww harden up!!! Hah ah ahh ahha... It's an ass of a job.
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Benny G Has a box needing a bearing still I think... Aye? BG Got that amp today... Did you still want the subs? $100...
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Ha ha ha... Yeah, but I like Toff...... Besides, it was sold to Adam, but he backed out. When did you offer on it? U get rid of that magna?
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Well BG Didn't call me today to pick up the amp... so Amp and Subs are all yours $200 bro Funny fkers... aint ya! It's also hiding a gass kit, T51R SPL, 2.2lt stroker kit, Auto and a 9 sec pass there some place.
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Yeah, the turbo's still hidden..... really well. I should just weld a turbo to the ex-man and advertise it as an "SR20 with turbo" 4.5k ... not that keen. Better than 3k some stooge offered me yesterday! Ha ha ha...
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Motor is sold... pending payment. Oh yeah there's a carton of bundy in it for whoever sells the silvia for me.
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Fulcrum are the only Aussie agent... There are a couple of other smaller joints on the mainland but I wouldnt trust them, plus no warranty...
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Or you could buy my busted RB20DET and build up an awsome donk for your 31... J
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NO waccas budy... I didn't think you were that old bud, ha ha ha. Who's picking it up? It's fairly long thats all. The engine pipe, eg dump to diff is all one piece.