XRATED

Well then, that changes thing then aye. If it's in a 31.... I'd get all your turbo set up sorted and wait till you can get it tuned, then put it all together. If you just want a little more bottom end push, then get yourself an rb20det turbo a stock manifold a fmic, a one way valve or your brake booster, new zorst etc and get it retuned, if you keep it stock boost you will still have to put in a thicker head gasket. Either way, it wont be cheap. Just cost it out. I think you'll be supprised. turb $400 man $50 FMIC $550 at min zorst parts $250 re-tune $600 odd at least head gasket... 4/5hunge? bits and pieces 2 or 3 hunge? If you want better pick up, change your diff rato, or boof an rb30 bottom end under it then get it re-tuned, of have a look at a supercharger, there's still the gass option, or even LPG TURBO conversion?

Mate at the end of the day, I'm looking at doing the same thing if things go to plan. All I'm saying, is don't expect it to be the same as a r33GTS-t, it just won't be. Aside from the engine, the gearbox and ratio's are different, the diff is different, the susp and brakes are different, the actual engine internals are very different, no to mention the fuel pump, fuel injectors and ecu. so on and so forth.... All things being equal, I'll be completing a similar "hybrid" style of thing. I'll be using a kkr 430 ( $899 retail ), top mount manifold, FMIC, oil cooler, upgraded clutch, turbo lsd, the car already had turbo brakes, GTR injectors, a fuel pump and get Sam to re-tune it, oh and a thicker head gasket. The only reason I'm doing this, is for matter dollars. "The car is sorted" My advice to anyone going with a "hybrid" style turbo conversion, is to ask them two simple questions: 1. What do you wan't from your car 2. Why not buy a turbocharged version of the same car you have/ or why not buy a 1/2 cut and do the conversion properly? Why not buy a turbo version and save your self some money/ or end up with a properly set up car. OR, JUST BUY A CLUTCH AND A NOS KIT!!!! MUCH CHEAPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bit Different... But hey, that's my 2 cents worth.

For pure reliability, don't run anymore than 12 psi. But really you should get it on a dyno to get it checked out when you do. It's very cheap insurance!

NO! NO! NO! Even if it dose, your engine will last about 10min if your lucky! The only way you can sucessfully turbocharge an atmo 25 is to lower the compression ratio, 1.6 or 1.8mm head gasket at a min, even then you can only really run 10-12 psi reliably anyway. YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR STOCK ECU RE-TUNED!!! And yeah, Sam Cornell should be able to do stock r33 ecu's very soon. A stock rb25det computer wont run your car unless you back the timing out at base by 2 or 3 deg at min, less timing and lower compression ratio it'll just be a pig of a thing!!! Not to mention a new clutch, weaker box, open diff? smaller brakes... But hey, go nuts!

Arha.. thankyou. Wow, that sux, having to re-block and re-build the thing as soon as you get it. Oh and you can use a 2wd dyno, just drop the front shaft out of it. Just get it tuned properly!!! Even the best forged pistons in the world won't hold up if it's not tuned properly.

No waccas. Just gimme a call before hand Justin H 0419789880

OK... First things first. GET IT ON THE DYNO!!! No more 24psi! Second thing, why do you need new pistons and a new block? Need a new block wtf??? Who's doing your work? Get the thing back together, get it tuned, then don't bugger with it! I can highly recomend Brad Sherrif (if your in Launie) or Kutzie. As for your clutch, ditch it. If your not going to drag race, the sell it and get your self a good Jim Berry single plate, it'll be so much better to drive, your going to get sick of stalling or "launching" very quickly. You'll end up destroying your gearbox anyway... It'd be a shame to wreck such a nice looking GTR... My GF is envious. With that style of set up, it should be a nice quick thing, just piss that clutch off. If you need any more help, let me now. Justin H

We're a franchise of Kamikaze Motors in Melb. Swing by, we're in moonah 103/a charles st.

I've got one in a stock car at work, feel free to drop by and have a look, Justin.... (Kamikaze)

Welcome to the wonderfull world of GTR.. Witch one is it? How much power is your GTR making and what do you plan doing with it? Do you really need a triple plate clutch??? I'd suggest getting another clutch... I drive my GTR with an R3C (o.s. giken triple) everyother day, my GF also drives my car... but it will never be easy to use! (thats why I love it!!! oh, that and the wine of a dogbox) But I run 390 plus rwkw on the street :-) Get a Jimm Berry single... As for tyres... what do you do with your car? If you just drive it on the street, get a good street tyre, if you wan't to race a little get somthing like the Azenis... Horses for courses, if you get a semi comp style tyre, be prepared to have them wear faster... Feel free to drop by for a chatt if you like (Justin at Kamikaze) hey my 2 cents.

Peeps, I'm looking for an R32 coupe shell, rolling shell, damaged but repairable or whatever. I'll look at just about anything. JUST NO RUST BUCKETS!! oh and I need a stock rb20det bottom end too... oops!

I had a farkin blast!!! It's allmost as much fun as drag racing... Big up for Benny and HCC... It was good to see people having a crack and everyone had a heap of fun.

I'll be out there having a bash!

How much boost are you trying to run, if everything else is ok, you may be hitting the boost limitter. Don't try and run anymore than 12 psi with a "stock everything else" ( turbo, ecu, etc ). If you wan't more (everyone wan'ts more) you'll need to upgrade your ecu, then your turbo, then your fuel systm.... etc and so forth........... or you could just run gas :-)

I use a 50/50 mix of lightweight and heavyweight shockproof oil. The 9 sec supra guys in the US use a 50/50 mix in there stock 6 speed getrags. I spoke to the Aus redline tech support, they said it was fine to mix. Worth while for any box, in a car running more power from stock. Well worth the money... much cheaper than a new box or a re-build. EDIT: I actually had a chance to have a chatt with one of the owners/ sales rep of redline at Bursons on argyle st. He was very informative and loved to chatt about cars and the product. They claim 30% extended component life with thy're engine oil product, as well as some big claims about they're G-Box oil's, diff oils's and water treatment. They have a performance product for allmost any application on or around your car. If you wan't any more info, go see Tony at Bursons in argyle st. I recon I'll be switching from Motul Crono to they're performance oils, I allready use they're water treatment ( knocked 12 degrees off consistantly at the end of every run and if you have water temp/ign correction table set up right you can pick up a little more hp when it's hot, e.g. dragracing.) and the 50/50 mix of g-box oil in my dogbox. Anything that is used and proven with V8 supercars can't be a bad thing.

Yeah, top stuff! It kept my stock box together for as long as it did. I use it in my dog box, drives like a stocker (well kinda hahaha).

Yeah, that's what I thought, (although the box was re-built before I got the car) but I pulled it down and it's all new inside. The front whels have no problem spining and it's a consistant rear wheel then front wheel spin. So... Mate you've really got your thing really moving, I was never going to keep draging after I ran my 10, but it's tempting now.... By the way (somone mentioned somthing.....) I'm not workshop backed, I built the thing in my car port and is tuned by a local (Andrew Kutz/Pro Automotive).

Yeah it's nuts on the street..... I run BFG Street drag radials, like i said, a full wheel spinning event to launch, I really need a tourque split controller! With the cams and a little fiddle with the timing, my t517z's sool up verry close to stock...

cheers thanks mate

Ok before anyone gets too carried away. I ran 10.675@ 137.62 mph, I ran 50 hp shot of gas. I went up the return road and straight back onto the track and ran 11.087 and only a couple of mph slower (don't think the gas is lean enough yet). The friday night before I ran up 393rwkw on 24psi of boost ( the actuators couldn't hold any more boost) and that was after 10 or 12 straight power runs on the Dyno (should make over 400 cold). So make of it what you will... I'll be running next round without gas (they'll let me run without a cage with no gas), so I'll see what happens. Either way 10.6 with a 4 wheel spinning launch and crap 1.66 sixty foot, isn't bad for stiff coilovers, no susp set up, street legal tyres, full weight (bar passenger and back seat) GTR and a STOCK bottom end! ( A well chuffed ) Justin Hallock

1.66 sec (slow....) So there's definetaly more in it.

TRUE OH SO TRUE...... I hear that!

Thanks guys... stock motor T517Z 10cm Greddy dumps Greddy pipe kit Apexi bar and plate cooler NOS N2O kit (30 to 200hp) 50hp shot Greddy oil cooler 720cc inj 044 pump and surge tank 1/2 " lines split fire coilpacks RB20DET AFM's Apexi Power FC O.S. Giken R3C PPG Dog Box JIC (Rock Solid) Coilovers BFG Goodrich Street Drag Radials And a lot of waiting, f**k ups, a few breakages, a SHITE LOAD of blood and skin! I'll be running the rest of the season without a cage but no gass. I ran straight after the 10sec run (3.5min) I ran 11 flat off gass (Verry Hot). So hopfully I'll run 10 sec off gass before I break somthing...... Cheers Justin

Well folks it's done. I ran 10.6 @ 138 mph ....... on street tyres, low mount turbo's and a stock 15yo bottom end. Justin :beer: