aDrew_C

To me the advanteges are like this: HR31: - Unique - Better Diff - Nicer seats - More straight forward interior - Bit more engine bay room R32: - Bolt on mods a pleanty - Cheaper to mod - Better stock items - Brakes, engine, suspension, 5 stud hubs - Better chassis Looks are up to whos looking at it. Basically, if you prefer the 31, there are sacrifices to be made, believe me. The only thing that makes it better mechanically is the R200 longnose mechanical diff, which still isn't great from factory as it's far too lose but at least it's not a vicious lsd and is easy to have rebuilt to be tighter. I chose the 31 and I've payed for it. They hold a place in my heart and I would not trade for a 32 gtst anyday. 32 GTR is another story.

That's generally true, but it also depends on where the face of the wheel sits. Often you will find front wheels will have the face sit out further for brake clearance. All things the same though (same wheel, same face position, same width), lower offset will mean more dish.

The main problem with HR31's is the money you'll spend when it comes to specific parts, suspension being harder to upgrade etc. Luckily when once you do a conversion for the engine, you're set in that department. But personally r33's are boring and fat and too many people have them, so I went with the RB25 conversion. Any r33 I've driven with the same mods as my HR and similar power, doesn't do anything for me.

Good stuff, I run 38-40 all round also, but I thought I might just be preferring this because of my sloppy suspension. Cheers

Sounds like boost cut.

Exactly, I use 38psi because I've still got standard suspension on the front and too soft stuff on the back. Why would smaller sidewalls need more pressure to be stiffer? Wouldn't that be the case for larger sidewalls, which inherently have a lot of give in them. Munkyb0y, if you have some sort of proof to back this up then please let us all know, but it doesn't sound that logical to me. 36psi is fine - try anything in the range of 32-40 and see what you prefer with your setup.

That's how you get a heavy RWD car. If you want RWD then a GTST will be the way you want to go if you want something well balanced. But yes, the front and rear guards, bonnet and grill as well as body kit/rear spoiler (obvious one) are all different. Using GTR guards will allow for lower offset/wider rims, which means more track, and more grip, and the alloy gtr bonnet is lighter. But all these parts aren't exactly cheap, and you'd only really need to put them on a GTST if you're pretty serious about taking it to the track. So yes, a GTST with GTR guards and bonnet coupled with an RB26 will be a much better RWD car than a GTR in RDW only mode, and would probably be faster around the track in the dry than a regular GTR. But it's not cheap, you'd be looking at more than the average price of a GTR for a GTST and then this kind of conversion taking into account the rims, brakes and everything too. But IMO it would be worth it for someone who's serious about what they want.

Yes here is the thread with the basics: http://www.nissanv8.com/viewtopic.php?t=11 As you can see the earlier engines were the over-engineered ones, with the cost cutting occurring later on. Early Vh45's are apparently fine with the exception of their worse designed ports and the minor thing of the plastic timing chain guides... Althought apparently later VH45's solved this, and used oval intake ports. Would look like that's the better option then. Just don't go for one of the '96 and later ones.

Apparently the VH41's are the more advanced motor, with a better flowing head and a more over-engineered approach. So the best of both worlds is to build one with VH45 internals.

GT3076 should do it fine, anything smaller and you aren't really gauranteed anything over 260rwkw. Might be reliable for years, might not. That's the chance you take.

If you prefer the look of the 32's, like I do, then why settle for a 33? A 30k 32GTR shouldn't have any more problems than a 33, and it sure as hell should have more power than a 35k 33.

I'd be expecting 230-40 myself. More would be a bonus. Oh, and stock afm? How could you expect more?

The 52T A/R .73 HKS GT3037S (external gate) looks like the perfect RB25 GT30 to me, bit expensive, such a shame garret don't make such a thing. Id be interested on comparison between any HKS 3037 vs a garret variety. Would be very interesting.

Thanks for that. I was sold on a highflow before, mainly cause of the stock-like response and easy replacement. But for the price of a gcg, I'd rather fork out the extra $400-500 for a HKS GT-RS kit. The only problem I have with the GT-RS is actual results. Chris, that graph you linked to is exactly why it looks like the perfect turbo for me, decent response, insane midrange, and good top end. I just need to see some dynos that back this up! I can't find any that also have the boost graphed! Well I'm on the right track at least. Cheers

Can someone point me in the direction of some dynos of 3071's and 3076's with psi graphed? I can't seem to find anyone on here whos posted one that's still showing, or has the info I need. Both 0.64 and 0.86 exhaust housings. This is getting a bit frustrating :\ I know a 3071 with 0.63 turbine housing A/R will give me the results I want, but without much future potential.. I'm really after a proper comparison between the 0.64 and 0.86 version, and the 3076, which I'd really only prefer in its 0.86 form, due to the larger compressor, but I'm still to be convinced! 3071 0.5 Comp A/R, 0.64 Turbine A/R 3071 0.5 Comp A/R, 0.86 Turbine A/R 3076/37 0.6 Comp A/R (shrouded), 0.64 Turbine A/R 3076/37 0.6 Comp A/R (shrouded), 0.86 Turbine A/R There are the four I'm lacking decent comparisons between. Someone please help shed some light on how these turbo's actually perform on an RB25, with response vs. top end being the major factor. Cheers.

Looked into the highflows quite a bit, a lot of mixed results, and in the end I'm just not 100% on them. Still considering it though, I have two rb25 tubos, the one I'm not using is a 34 neo turbo with an OP6 rear housing. I have a walbro pump, not the best but yeah, hopefully just injectors, clutch and turbo and that will do it. Starting to like the idea of a 3071 now, they give results on par with a hks 2835, right? Same response in 0.64 form? A 2835 is less hassle for sure, but will an internal gate be something I regret keeping for over 250rwkw?

Not really building, as I want to keep internals stock where possible, this is on the cheap to an extent. Yes I've searched, I've seen the options, but can't get enough comparison between them cause of deleted dynographs and other reasons. But, I've been researching turbo's for quite a bit, and was convinced on a highflow of some kind, but am now changing my mind. I want 2335 type response, with the ability to break 250rwkw. Initially I'd be more than happy with 230rwkw or around there, maybe less seeing dyno wont be in shootout. My current mods are: microtech ltx-12, 3" turboback exhaust, 300x600x75 fmic and custom 2.5" (?) piping, pod, splitfire coils. I will be buying 550cc injectors and a HD clutch when I buy the turbo. So what do I want: - I'd prefer something that's easy to bolt on, tune, and drive away. Either as a bolt on replacement or in kit form. - boost to start building around 2500rpm at most - 1bar before 3500rpm - 250rwkw+ potential I'm really leaning towards a HKS GT-RS, but keep getting mixed feedback. I really want to know, without cams, when one actually starts spooling on an RB25 with mods similar to mine, and when it will reach ~1bar. What power can the 0.64 housing reach? Is it worth considering the 0.8x housing for what I want? Another thing is wastegates, for the price of a HKS kit, i'm not far off buying a gt3071, cheap manifold, and external gate. Will I find an internal gate frustrating at the power I'm after? Can someone also confirm the responsiveness of a gt3071? Ok the last of 21 questions. Cams, are a good set of 256-260 degree cams worth it, my mechanic advised against it, but the benefits are just too tempting. Do cams of this size cause a notable drop in low end response, or is it that small and the midrange-top end gains way to big to even worry about it. Also, are just straight matched intake and exhaust cams the best for response, or would 256 on intake and 260 on exhaust or vice versa be worth it? Well hope I can get at least some help here, I have found most bits of this info from searching, but I can't relate it all to what I want out of my 25, so I hope someone can make it a bit clearer for me

Here's my HR Not far off completing the hub conversion and getting the complete set of ssr rims on; where they belong! Can't wait for to get the nicely dished rear ones on there.

Uh, really it's going to save you a lot of money (or, better put, you'll gain money rather than lose it) if you just sell it and buy a gtst. To properly CONVERT it to RWD, you'll just need to source gtst bits anyway.. Not worth it at all! Edit: ok I see you said adjust, my bad. If you do mean temporarily, then it's simply a matter of removing a fuse (I don't know specifics), that's if its the same as a GTR, someone who knows more than me should be able to confirm this pretty easily.

Thats always been my understanding too. Right now my water temp doesn't seem to get higher than 86, and usually sits on 80C when cruising. I always thought an engine will run better at higher temps to a reasonable extent, provided it's a good even temperature. What people would be experiencing with their cars running worse at higher temps would more than likely be due to the fact that the a/f ratio should richen up at higher temps.

Just got my CoolingPro from justjap installed, $400. Very hot, very humid day today on the gc, let it idle for 30 mins and didn't get over 86C, then immediately thrashed it and the temp didn't budge, drove it home this arvo, still quite hot and it sat on 80C even after i went up a long hill in 5th winding up to 11psi for 10 secs (2500-3500rpm). Oh, and this is all without the shroud for now (need a 33 one). Can't see any reason why it won't fit although the fan is fairly close. But then again I have a 33 one modified to fit in my HR31 with custom brackets... so it's not exactly your regular application. Comparing to a PWR, the core looks exactly the same, it doesn't seem to be baffled, but for the performance i'm getting so far on the hottest day this summer, the price is right. I know mid 80C doesn't sound great, but you obviously don't want your car running cold, and the thermo only starts to open at 78, so really it's about stability. Idealy you want something that stays below 90C under any conditions. It's looking like I just got that for $400.

Pretty sure its the same as HR31, which means it will fit in R31, but isn't exactly the same. Rear is a little bit of a different story, but still apparently works either way on HR/R31/R/HR/DR30 all the same.

Yeah they are plumback, but my RB25 was made to be atmo for no reason... so I'd need some pipe and a t piece adaptor or whatever to set it up plumback, if you're replace a stock rb25 plumbed back bov, it will attach just fine afaik.

A Single GTR bov is a direct bolt on replacement for an RB25, it does have a tighter, more refined sound that actually has a note to it rather than just air moving that my RB25 one had. I plan to plumb mine back, but the microtech probably wont like that so I'm waiting for when i next need a tune.

Just having replaced my Rb25 standard BOV that was faulty with a GTR one I couldn't be happier. Haven't plumbed it back yet, but being bigger its actually quieter (not plumbed back yet), but then again my old one was only opening a little after it got bashed in. Anyhow, they're very strong and standard looking, I'd take one over some stupid after market one any day.