aDrew_C

Bendix ultimates - from highest point to lowest, end to end = approx 58x120mm cheers

Might want to recheck that graph, looks like the 3037 results not the 3040. Great results anyhow, anything over 300rwkw with a gt30 is pretty good.

I'd be thinking GT-RS's (or garret 2871R) would be pretty well suited to a 26/30, would give the same effect as 2860's on a 26 only more power obviously. Pretty much the same price for the garret items so something to keep in mind...

Someone's got to be on-topic here Got a 044 I purchased a few months ago online still in the box and plastic with manual in german. I can confirm the same sound when shaking it from side to side regardless of what way its facing etc. As long as I'm shaking it along the axis you specified I get the sound you described. Again, it's still in the sealed plastic and has never been used. It seems like it's either a design thing or something easily damaged in transport (I knocked mine once when in the box, it fell from upright to on its side, made a bit of a noise but i doubt it would've affected it). So here's to hoping it's normal. Hope I helped.

Ditto, pretty much what I get with my microtech ltx-12 on my s1 RB25DET. Got 600k's to the tank the other week mainly highway, and that's with a 4.4:1 diff, so imagine cruising on ~3500rpm.

Just to clear up some confusion here, You obviously have a HR31 (import), everyone here however is talking about R31's (Local). R31's have a stock 2" exhaust, and HR31's have a 2.25 (like yours). A 2.25" exhaust is fine for an RB30e and a lot of people prefer them because of the sound (less drone). However being a factory exhaust your 2.25 probably wouldn't match up to a 2.25 mandrel bent with just a cat and a muffler/cannon for example. So it could still be causing a bit of restriction.

If you're getting 100KMp/h @ 3100rpm in 5th, you've got a 4.375:1 diff, ie R33 auto diff, same ratio as most RB20 R32's. I've got the same ratio in my HR31 with RB25 box. It can be a bit of a pain on the highway (really could use a 6th gear) and you basically never use first unless you've practically come to a stop. With standard 4.11:1 R33 manual diff you should be getting around 2800-2900rpm for 100k's in 5th.

There should be no problems swapping the whole dizzy, unless the one you bought is f**ked for some reason. Just some advice, have a shot asking at http://forum.r31skylineclub.com they know their rb30e's and r31's. But from what I know about it, it should work unless something else is wrong...

VLs only got the hitachi type CAS, which 31's had too but it wasn't common for early 31's like yours. 31's used both hitachi and mitsubishi, which are not interchangable. As long as you are swapping the whole dizzy with the cas that it originally came with a vl one will work no worries, people have done this. If you just put in a VL cas though it more than likely will not work. From what you've said it should work going off other peoples testimonials. So really all I can suggest is to hunt down a 31 dizzy/cas.

Yeah go 31 for a good cheap rwd nissan with nice torque and decent power. If you don't like the look of them then that's your loss... they're a great first car to learn the ins and outs of and I can't think of anything else that gives you what a 31 can for the price.

I can only give a brief overview at best, but you can expect to have to upgrade the brakes to those from the car the engine came from (or better) (for nsw). So that's 4pot GTSt calipers with 297mm rotors. Not sure on an engineers cert, possibly because it's going turbo, but not sure.

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Wouldn't happen to have standard BOV's?

Any chance the head is still for sale?

Yeah it's a LTX-12 for sure, thanks for the advice. Now that I think about it, it makes sense why I'd use S1 coils. Cheers

I have a S1 RB25DET with microtech LTX-12. Just wondering seeing I'm not using the ignitor box anymore, would I go for the splitfire coils to suit S1 RB25, or S2 with self ignitors?

Take the plugs out and blow them dry with an air compressor. Check the coils as well.. Make sure your coil cover is tightly fitted for next time and when YOU wash it next, don't just get a hose and spray. Be careful. And yeah, if it's just the plugs, you will know about it. If the engine sounds pretty normal.. then that's something else.

Thats dual syncros, every gear has syncros. And I think 33 boxes have dual syncros on every gear besides reverse as well. It's the 32 box that just had dual on 1st and 2nd.

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I could possibly have the money for this in a few months, I'm very interested but obviously don't want to waste your time. So I'll just throw that out there as an EOI. One question, compression?? This is pretty much exactly what I want to build (already have head and bottom end) I was just looking at going for at least 8.5:1 if not 9:1. Thanks. EDIT: Oh and if I were to buy this I'd also be happy to make an offer on the cooler, piping, radiator and fuel system.

After a GTR BOV (or a pair if need be) in decent condition, with gaskets and gear to plumb it back. Prefered it came off a lowish km's R33 or the like, but I'll consider anything if the price matches the condition.

Damn it.. I never saw this, I would've gladly taken both. Let me know if the sales fall throung.

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Series 8 front conversion. Looks the goods, wish I had the cash. Good luck with the sale.