Kennedy

Import one through a reputable broker

I have a hiss. Like a steam engine or air brakes. Never really thought about it

Ummmm, woops. Sorry I didnt see you bob. Me was on the way back from Liz's party hungover as f**k

Where's the pics of Dave with booze coming out of his nose???

details on remote alarm please. Brand?

Do you have a brake cylinder stopper?

Standard pump will techinically be good up to 230KW but rarely doesnt (guess coz their age) You can try putting a relay on the fuel pump so it recieves a full 13.98-14 V rather than the 11.8 ir recieves with the stock setup. Make sure you dyno it to make sure it works 210 will be hard to get without rasing boost above/around 12 which inturn raises AFM to above 5V causing R&R Nismo FPR would be best as boltfit straight in. Other systems usually require adaptors. I'm runninng Z32 pump, Nismo FPR with stock injectors and put out 200. My AFM peaks at 4.9V so I'm at my limit with 11Psi boost (R33 S1)

I use the Exedy HD organic. Good for up to 240KW. Crisp bite but soft enough for city driving. I think there is a group buy on them now.....

What he said. Do your pump and FPR and you'll be safe to run that consistently. I wouldnt even crank uop the boost for fear of R&R. Congrats on haveing one of the better 33's. Mine is like that too. I got 180 only with a cat back and pod.

It can be different per car. Mine is a copper looking wire is a clear tube/case

NK, I'm pertty sure that when i take my foot off the gas the TPS switch go's to off.

When was this? I'm pretty much there everday as I live up the road...

The standard RB25 turbo is already ball bearing. A high flow job will retain this.

Happy 16th birthday Tosh!!!!

Howdy. That'd be me :-) Funny...get a personalised plate and suddenly you get spotted. YAY!! Makes me feel special :PBJ:

I had the luxury of growing up on a 140 acre property at Galston and was driving since I was 12 and did the galston gorge twice a day from 16 to 21 yo. This taught me how to drive. I wish all of you had a control environment to experiment with your car. Things like skid pan days should pushed by the RTA so a person does not wig out at the first sign of lost traction.

leaking cooler, joiners or pipes?

Cheers Duncan. Slightly off topic but do GTR's have R&R too?

Pinout 29 on the ECU is another option which I find is easier. Unless your mounting the gauge on your bonnet.

What points does yours fluctuate between ? If I start my car and don’t touch the throttle the gauge skips between 10 and 15. So what is my actual timing? 10, 15 or somewhere in between? Do you know at what point in degrees C it kicks in? What the A/C relay? Is this supposed to always be on or does it turn on at certain point? Because mine says its off at idle but haven’t looked at it whilst boostn That’s a shame......is there any consult software out there that does display some sort of knock reading from the stock microphone? Thanks for the info about the AFM Duncan Will it show a +5V figure on the consult if it go's over or will the display just stick at 5...also Does the ECU generate an ECU error code when the AFM gets pushed over 5V? Also, probably wrong thread but will excessive knocking also instigate R&R?

This will take care of your skyline specs. For Other specs best to jump on their approriatte forums for the best detail http://www.powerplayimports.com/includes/engine.php

The stock ECU will take on a FMIC no worries. It will even allow you to boost it up to 10 PSi no worries as long as you have a FMIC. Have fun

Hey Guys, Just picked up datascan and cable last night and been playing with it this morning with my laptop. After being mesmerized by pretty blue and black gauges for about 3 mins I got bored and started to play around. So far I've... Checked Error Codes - None WooHoo!! Active Test Cylinders - They're all working Speed Trial - <6 sec for 0-100 Nooooiice. Now I wanna get to drawing the most out of the analogue displayed data. I've come across a couple of things and just wanted to know what was normal.. Water Temp is between 75-84 deg C Idle Timing - Peak number is 15 but the gauge sticks at ten and then flashed to 15 once every second. Does this mean I'm running 10 or 15 or something else for timing? Air Flow - Think I read somewhere that this ranges up to around 5V? Mine peaked at 4.9. Is this the sensor that instigates R&R? If so then at what point/voltage from the AFM does R&R kick in? If R&R does kick in does it generate an Error code? 02 Sensor - This appears to be reading the same as my autogauge air/fuel gauge which is cool...They are completely in synch. But is this linked to Closed TPS? Is the 02 gauge meant to be going back and forth crazily whilst closed TPS is off? Can someone please explain what closed TPS is? Thermo Fan - I've probably got it wrong but isn’t the thermo fan supposed to kick in when the water temp reaches a particular point? If so what is that point? I tried to do an active test today by increasing the Engine Temp to 150 but the Thermo Fan stayed off according to the data display. Any other help or pointers in getting the most value of this software would be great. I've searched heaps and heap of threads but cant really find specific info on how the product is used and explanation of the data. Cheers in advance

On your turbo dump pipe (which leads to your exhaust) you have a sensor which detects 02. Based on this info the ECU will lean out the fuel whenever it is safe to do so (when you back off the throttlle etc etc). If the sensor isnt working properly then the ECU wont lean out the fuel when its possible so you will get crap fuel economy for one thing (200k's to a tank). This gauge can tell you if the sensor is working or not.

Isnt the sensor on the cat a temp sensor and not a 02 sensor? Correct me if me wrong...