Kennedy

As I'm sure the goss is out. Some of use knew...some of use thought they knew and to those who dont know... Congrats to Powerplay at Drummoyne for bringing the only Z-Tune to Australia and best of all, make a track day out of it so we can see this thing up close and doing mach 1 down Oran park straight. I had an awesome day (with one of the slowest cars...Who puts a R34 GTR V spec in Group 4?) Liz.....I think I owe you a six pack, we'll have to wait till times are published. Weather was perfect and the day was almost incident free. I'm gonna go sleep for 12 hours now

Sk. have you managed to open up the block on your R33 GTST? Would be very interested in seeing if there is any discoluration/corrosion etc in the block after running extreme exclusively.

Safer..probabaly. Your standard SMIC will not handle 10 PSi consistently. It will be come heat soaked which leads to hot air going into the turbo. Then again..if you have mature throttle control and only wanna hit 10Psi once a day or so then that will be fine. Just because it's set at 10Psi doesnt meen you have to hit 10 everytome you accelerate

I have a turbo 33. It is not a Type M. Try again.

If you use a bleed valve then that negates the standard actuator. If you set the bleed valve at 10 then you will have 10 all the way through the rev range. If the bleed valve is already installed than the standard actuator should be disconnected. 10 Psi should be safe for daily driving as long as you have a FMIC. Best to have a dyno run after too ensure fuel pump is up for it (They should be but sometimes they fail). CRD and UAS doing them for around $80.00. Basically the mod listed here is for peope who want to use the standard actuator to get full boost (7-8Psi) right throughout the rev range.

Saw Zany(opening track was Jump around by house of pain. COOOOLL) and DBD at Melbourne Transmission whilst on holidays down there...First time out in Melbourne but man the scene is so different down there. 2 thousand people all doing the Melbourne shuffle in unison. Bit ghey if you ask me.

Where else does everyone go these days? Plastic? Subbies? Gas? Daydreams? Only head out 3 or 4 times a year these days as the scene just shits me.... d0p3y...sad to hear mate.

Tempting. More tempting now that Gas just got shot up last week. Just the excuse the cops need to raid the freaking place every week. Yoji should be awesome. Kan Cold is always guarenteed good tunes. Mmmmmm.....

Just put a FMIC and increasing the boost later this week. Hoping to get close to 200

I did this over the weekend and boost is coming on a bit quicker now. I just thought i weas experiencing extra turbo lag when I intsalled the FMIC but it looks like the turbo takes a bit longer to boost up when the connection is made after (?) the throttle Cheers Wog.

GKteck Cooler with piping (600 X 300 X 76) = $400 Turbotech Boost Controller - $35.00 R33 turbo maybe and remap :-) Then start saving for a HD clutch as the stocker wont last long with increased KW

Gonna hollow out my standard cat for the next track day. Whats the best method? Mop handle?

A. Its Type M, not m spec. B. Type M have larger sideskirts and fatter front bar. C. They were an option accorss S1 and S2. My S1 turbo has a pueny little non type-m front bar. (like 2rismo)

Mines a 33 but i got 175RWKW with cat back and pod. Standard ECU, boost, IC.

Some specs

I wasnt talking about the car. I meant the driver of "R Tune". Anyway, also spotted 33 GTR - "GTR-095" on Wicks Road

Jo-Ann...if you can source me one on tick I will do your laundry and dishes for the next 20 years.

Spotted Tosh finally getting his hands dirty using the Rip and Tear technique on "R Tune". Now get back in the kitchen and cook my eggs bitch Spotted "AARON" this morning. R33 Maroon. Also spotted "KUR53D". Silver 33 Series 2 on pacific HWY chatswood.

Tape them up now to be sure. It's only an hour job. If it fixes then you will know its definitly cracks in your coils...then you can choose to seal them more permantly with silicon or "just buy splitfires". $5 Vs $550. Same thing happened to me and I could not see any cracks at all...but apprantly they were there coz silicon fixed it.

PDF Is in this thread somewhere Get youself and angle grinder with cutting tool, tin snips and give yourself time to do it. (ALL DAY)

I'll have to check the sheet when I got home but I was not able to get anywhere near the settings that Victory was able too. Victory, can you please post the settings you had BEFORE your wheel aligment? Just so we can see how much in mm/degrees you were able to adjust per area of suspension? I'm gobsmacked as to how you were able to achieve so much castor at the front without castor rods. (Which in turn would affect SAI i think...can someone confirm this?) What other variables are there that will affect it? Wheel size? Tyre size/width? Perhaps I lost some functionalty when my stock suspension was replaced with coilovers?

Let me also say that I could not spot any cracks either. But apparently I had them. There was no scoring or lines anywhere but it was guarenteed to miss at 4500RPM. I would suggest that all people at least try this mod before buying splitfires.

My point being is that I would have gone out and bought the adjustable camber/castor rods before my wheel alignment so i could have done verything at once rather than having to do go back once I've installed adjustable parts. Wheel alignments arent cheap.

So what your saying is that you DO have adjustable castor and/or camber rods in your car. I think it would be best to alter your original post stating something along the lines of....castor and SAI is not adjustable at all via the stock suspension.

Cheers guys. Things are cleared up now. If I was to point the finger I would do this... But off course I'm not pointing the finger. Guess I should have asked more than one person before spending $77.00 on a wheel alignment to only end in a Toe adjustment. Should have just asked SK but I feel guilty everytime I PM him coz I'm sure everyone under the sun asks him for advice all day.