Kennedy

Water Temp - 75-80 for normal. 90 when reallly booting it for a stockish car. Not sure on oil temp....dont have that gauge

Connect one end of the boost controller to the nipple on the intercooler piping and the other to the wastegate actuator (attached to the turbo) If you have one of the cheaper IC kits then you might not have a nipple on the cooler piping (usually closest as possible to the throttle body)....if you dont then purchase a $2 nipple and tap it into the piping making sure its a nice fit. Temporarily you can connect that end to the BOV vacuum hose(the one at the top) to drive yourself over to repco or whatever. PM me if you still have trouble

For Sale - 1994 Series 1.5 Nissan Skyline 2.5L Turbo Lowered to $14,000 for this week only My precious mistress of a skyline is up for sale as I have to get myself a more "family friendly" car now due to me finally growing up....shame. The car is a little over a year old and I am the first owner since I hand-picked picked it from the Japan auctions in late 2005. The car has really never skipped a beat and the build up of my pride and joy has been a fantastic journey fuel by love of the perfect combination of daily driven ability coupled with the strength to pull off a track day. Mods are listed below and are mostly of a functional nature and not for looks and cruising. Hardware * Front Mount Intercooler * CES Split Dump Pipe which separates the Wastegate Gasses from the Exhaust for a strong top end acceleration * CATCO Hi Flow Cat * Kakimoto 3" Exhaust * 3" Stainless Intake Pipe (The one that leads to the turbo) * Pod Filter * 17" Genuine Work Rims wrapped in Bridgestone G3's. Sizes are 235(F) and 255® * Genuine Nismo Fuel Pressure Regulator * Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch - Single Plate "organic". This is suitable for up to 250KW but still retains the factory feel and does not cause cramps in traffic * Hi Flow Fuel pump (Z32) * X-Force Front Strut Brace (Nismo Style) * JIC Coilovers and Standard suspension included * Bendix Ultimate Brake Pads * JDM-33R Number Plate is included Electronics * Stock ECU * Greddy e-01 Electronic Boost Controller with LCD Screen and Remote Control Interior * Sony CD/MP3 Deck with remote Control coupled with a Sony 10 disc CD Stacker in the boot * Genuine Nismo Leather Gear Knob * Triple electronic gauge set in DIN slot showing Boost, Water Temp and A/F Ratio * Stainless Cluster surrounds * Tinted Windows all round @ 30% (Legal Limit) * 94K K's I took the car to a track day once every 3 months for the past year and twice to the drags. The car has never skipped a beat. The oil and filter was changed every 5000 km's OR directly after a track day...whichever came first. Oil was always replaced with "ELF Excellium 10W 50". The oil filter was always replaced with a genuine Nissan Item. Spark plugs are only 5000 km's old and the car has never been boost past 10psi The car is garaged every night and washed every fortnight at the car was cafe next door. The car is available for inspection and test drives for serious bidders only. Please feel free to ask any questions. The price may vary if you wish to exclude certain items from the sale (eg harness, EBC). Please feel free to give me a call or shoot me a message to request additional information. I hope that this car's next owner will take care of it as much as I have as alot of love and time has been dedicated to it. Rego till Oct 07. Would also consider a swap for a Starlet GT (EP82) with some cash my way. Cheers, Sam 0406315013

It flew passed me in Arcliffe yesterday...

The pipe go's over the top of the fan

MrG doesn't offer his services anymore. (FMIC installs that is)

you sure your cat isnt gutted?

Hey Guys, I need the metal pipe setup that connects the stocker BOV to the intake pipe. PM me with what you've got. Located in Sydney Sam 0406315013

I got a manual for sale. PM me if interested

hahahahah rofl LOL. G/L with the sale. hahahahahaha

Thats crap. Most people have a vac line running from there IC piping to the wastegate actuator/bleed valve but you can get away without it. There is definitely a very small leak somewhere in your IC piping or joiners...pin hole size. If clamps had popped off the car would not go further than 5 meters.

Hey Guys, Needs some cash to pay upcoming bills. Need to swap my car with something cheaper coupled 2with some cash my way. Wouldnt even mind a R32 GTST with around 6K my way. Below is a link to my For Sale Thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=150870

Yep. Mine ran 9.5 psi without using an aftermarket boost controller

Put it on a dyno first.....adjust if necesasary and then head out to track

Looks cool. Perhaps drill some holes into your number plate more towards the middle so you can mount the plate across the bar rather than dangling.......

Sure did. Pretty proud of it. First attempt at a FMIC install

Read his first post. It's an S1 and he wants ti fit a FMIC behind his S1 bar and not his S2 bar or a new front bar. Also...please dont compare your less than smart friend's idea of removing his reo bar to our suggestions of trimming it. Two different scenrio's. Engineers clear trimming all the time....as long as the cut is clean an the surface us treated with corrosion protectant after. It usually only requires 10mm max of trimming. This is mainly due to the design of the pipes that came with the cooler or the brackets that came with it. I dont think anyone on here was thinking of taking out their reo bar completely.

I have had two transactions with Henzie/Henry and I can honestly say that he is an honest guy as far as I can see. I have bought a "Greddy e-01 boost controller" and a complete set of "R33 suspension". Both items were as described. Please keep stupid comments between yourself and your priest.

it dont matter if you win by an inch or a mile. It dont even matter if you start 3 mins after your opponent...winning's winning. Anywayz....

Had to grind off quite a bit of the back of the front bar and shave the back of the indicators. Piss easy with a cheap angle grinder. (reo bar will require a decent cutting disc though)

Here you go. Mine is a standard series 1 bar...NOT type M

it's your injectors that are gonna let you down. All the other mods can get you to 250RWKW. The standard injectors run out of puff at around 210 to 220 max. CAMS, injectors and Z32 AFM will get you to 250 easily..........dependent on the quality of the hi-flow

tune your ebc for cold AND hot. Does it have two settings? If so retune for both weather conditions as stuff like gain etc etc will be different for different temps

? If I shut down cylinders 4-6 on the highway via consult does that mean I'll get charade style efficiency?

Kewl