pure_methamphetamachine

Holy shi!tballs that looks familiar...

464kW @ 4 wheels, 502kW @ rears ~= 803HP @ fly.

Friends of mine in Melbourne have twins: Jacob and Max. They'd happily swap them for the turbo kit

if you buy the proper Nismo kit it comes with plates, pressure plate, flywheel, release bearing and flywheel bolts. you just take old clutch and fly off, and replace with new one. Easy as that.

you dont have an alarm do you? your alarm will interupt all these if installed properly, aand if alarm packs out, all chief systems die.

I've had: A'PEXi AVC-R GReddy Profec B GReddy Profec B II GReddy Profec S HKS EVC III HKS EVC IV HKS EVC V HKS EVC all the way, V best, otherwise IV.

Factory Brembo's with Endless pads

It's getting there... BOV control:

If you get a GRID TS Dancer you MUST get the R33 gtr one. R32 one different. When you put it on the 0 / 100 split (RWD) you still get a slight amopunt to the front as you can not turn off the front on the33 setup. You lose 10% due to friction etc thru the front, so by dropping it out the engine requires less power to achieve the same at the rears as it does in 4WD. I drive with RWD all the time unless at the track. Easiest way to look at it: Lets say for a given rate of acceleration or maintaining of a certain speed eg 100km/h, the vehicle needs a driving force / power of 100kW @ wheels. In 4WD mode 100kw @ 4 wheels = 136HP @ wheels = 173HP at fly In RWD mode 100kW @ 2 wheels = 136HP @ wheels = 156HP at fly Power is the result of energy discipated. Energy is the result of combustion of fuel. The efficiency of the engine is the same for an engine regardess of whether it is running 2wd or 4wd as this has no effect on the engine itself. 173 / 156 ==> 10% less fuel. Acceleration requires overcoming inertia. As you have friction, wind resistance etc, maintaining speed requires overcoming forces too. The less forces you need to overcome the easier it is, the less energy required at any point in time, and especially over a period of time ie less fuel. So although there is a 10% immediate saving, the total saving increaes in RWD mode as there is far less work the engine has to do at any point in time to overcome additional forces. I know of a few people who have now bought TS Dancers for this reason after seeing the savings I got. They got them too.

Custom brackets to hold reg and lines: I melted my last braided lines with 1 layer of thermal protection. Now there are 4 layers...

Dammit. I meant to say output shafts the same, not the axle shafts... My bad, sorry.

I have a Nismo SuperCoppermix Twin Plate. It is nice and light, rideable, I love it. It's like a factory clutch, but handles 800HP. Exhaust is not a problem. It is 100mm with no restriction in the mufflers, but only 95dB. The lumpy idle is not too bad. Being in a grid lock stop / start gets entertaining when going up a slope / hill, but the system as a whole drives really nicely. I have driven many cars with twin and triple plate clutches, and they are just awful. Super heavy, noisy, on / off. The Nismo one is nothing like it, which is why I got it. Price was not too bad either. Chromium Molybdium flywheel + clutch plates + fly bolts + pressure plate + release bearing + new gear fork seal + Nismo Sticker was NZ$2,600. It was way cheaper than HKS, OS, ORC, and better in every aspect. In terms of security, I won't go into details, but with the exception of a tow truck (and even then you'll detroy the car trying to get it on the truck), it is going nowhere. Now before people start on the if someone wants it they will take it speal, they can't (except with a tow truck) and even if they do, it has GPS tracking and you can not kill it. I have an unrated alarm that my insurance refused to cover as a result, until they sent their expert over as I insisted all the 5 star alarms (Toad. AVS, Mongoose, Viper etc) were all shit and what I can do is better. My excess is less than what it would have been had I had one of the 5 star rated alarms. To give you some idea, the security install took over 100 hours. Seriously. My primary concern is some A Hole keying it or breaking into it and breaking shit which I have to replace.

Psymin I am. Braided lines are mainly fuel system, but a couple for the seperator, and also for the BOV control. I use an F COn V Pro. Last motor got 415 kW @ 4 wheels / 459 at rears. I get the oil and water from the facory feeds. I did the car so I can pack it full of sh1t (stereo has covers), cruise with people, drive around during the day. Not sure what lag will be like on this engine. Intheoryit won't be too bad with everyhing done to it. You don't need a huge road to enjoy it. I love the pull of it. Second gear is mental. So is third. Fun in fourth and fifth like any RB vehicle requires a track. Behaviour wise? In the dry it is mindblowing. you really can't explain the pull. My old engine had lag. I would gain 400HP in 1,000 rpm. In the wet you had to run low boost or you would light up all fours. Fuel economy about 12 litres / 100km on open road. 14 litres / 100km around town. PowerFC gets better fuel economy as it uses AFM's. F Con far superior unit but more complex ie you need a summer tune and a winter tune. PowerFC, one tune fits all.

I just realised my complete name doesn't come out in it's entirety when I post (the bit above my pic). So it's now in my sig

Nice setup The braided's just hanging there. It will be tidied...

I have to be honest, I only read a few posts, so I aplogose if this has been said. The answer is: GRID TS DANCER The torque split controller. They are about $600. Turn it on, you get a 0.5 / 99.5 split front to back. You do not need the 4wd all the time (yes, I know it is variable anyway). The GRID one enables you to turn the 4wd on and off whilest driving. You do not have to stop. I use 16.7 litres / 100km TS off. 11.7 TS on. You also get better acceleration etc as you lose less power due to friction when only the rears are working.

haha... Go NZ... 3 User(s) are reading this topic (0 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users) 3 Members: pure_methamphetamachine, gzzmos, tRUkbOY

260RS diff is R33 GTR diff. So are the axles.

"Ask your local dealer for franchise opportunities in your area"

Cheers peoples. Allows tilt adjustment indeed. It’s awesome. Made By Wayco (others do them though. Part number W1609?) I am confused over the dale / mess remark… . Kicker NZ gave me a really good deal. Cheers guys. Thanks That’s my friend who wants to learn. I still have one T shirt left  It has oil feed restriction to the head and oil drain. Do not need the bigger sump. It’s just a cruiser made for “no gap required” overtaking. Looked at the ATI pulley but not required. Each individual part was balanced to within 1 / 1,000,000kg, then part by part as a system til the whole bottom end (incl fly, clutch, crank pulley etc) was balanced to 1 / 1,000,000kg. I want 750 – 800hp at the fly. Only time will tell. That is really stretching the turbo though. Shows indeed. I want to see if it will actually win any prizes (I stop here before a rant begins). Should be driving in about 2 weeks, then do a 5,000km run in, then a tune. When I get the time I will be adding / making the under bonnet diffusers, underbonnet heat extraction system, custom guards, blow off valve control, seperator tank and oil catch can.

Which covers should I use? Blue (Really clashed with red I think) Nur with Nur badge Nur with 34R badge Nur with Nismo (I will have the NISM in black and O in red)

Pistons and rods: New forged full counterweight crank: HID installed: Drivers: Passenger: Everything I need for oil, water, vacuum and pressure lines: Twin Plate Clutch with Chromium Molybdium Flywheel: Boot complete: Door panels done. They look like arse, so I am going to remake at Christmas...: Passenger: Drivers: The intercooler is kind of deep (115mm): So I modified the bumper: Figured I may as well move the oil cooler again, and will modify the bumper more by adding a side air scoop / duct for the oil cooler: And now the bits that bolt onto the plenum are shiny too: Cut the bumper Got the initial glass section in: And I have my PnP head back:

Sound control central and new instrument panel in: The front of the car is partly back together!!! The boot is SO close, yet so far away... I have this thing for stainless steel. Every bolt in the engine bay is stainless allen key head cap screw. Every nut and washer stainless. Whether is is for the engine, guards, brackets, clips, whatever, it's all stainless. The doors are held on by stainless bolts, the interior panels throughout the entire boot are stainless, so too is everything with the audio. I needed to make a battery clamping system. I had several ideas, then binned them so I could use stainless. Yes, I need to go to Stainless Anonymous... Battery clamp Circuit breakers New plenum... The wiring nightmare.... This is the charging system and sub lines. It's kind of messy, but at least this way it is very easily tracable for all the wires (IGN, ACC, front battery, rear batteries, EQ's fibre optical lines, EQ IP BUS line, solenoid, voltmeter earths, ammeter earths, fuse breaker earths, fuel pumps relay system, system remote relay system...) The list keeps going... At least it is all hidden... The front is back on. All parts repainted or replaced. Stainless cap screws as per usual...: Door panel made. It's been dropped off to get covered: Duel fuel filter holder: The custom battery clamps / distribution blocks: Stereo all works. Rather loud... Needs a serious tune though. I'll do that when the car is finished Making a cold air box (template) that seals on the bonnet itself. There is surprisingly little room in an engine bay with no engine in it. Height was the issue really... Feet... Like a glove: There a couple of mm spare to allow for the sealing system: Templates getting cut then thermal procoated.