Jump to content
SAU Community

gts-4 dreamer

Members
  • Posts

    1,224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by gts-4 dreamer

  1. agreed, they all must no better cuase im thiking his a dead set f**king idiot... meh
  2. hmmm, 2 waysw to go eh, restrict the licence's so far that it will be so difficult to keep a licence and ban any vehicle capable of certain speeds, forget accell, possible intervention of speed govenors ? or resort to natural selection like the germans have, increase the possiblity of the lower common denominators killnig themselves etc, this will happen for a short time until people wisen up ? preventing people from driving legally is probably the best way to force compliance, plenty of revenue in fines to be had and when a person is driving illegally they tend to drive a hole lot more cautiously to avoid attention. would apply heavily to the typical p plater age backet ?
  3. 1980's suzuki 4wd, pick one, drop in sr20 fw version and watch it pop drive shafts choice
  4. nissan might recommend not running a tank empty due to overheating in fuel pumps, less fuel pumps fail early less get replaced on warranty, i doubt its sedimentation and more the overheating fuel pump failing my couple of cents eh
  5. dont they have to be being in the show ? this is pretty shonky source being a "friend" of mine's girl was one of those car wenchs about 2 year ago, she was pretty talketive about the girls, about hte rules etc. then again that was 2 year ago. I retract the statement, carnal knowledge charge not withstanding eh
  6. ... always wanted a 33gtr, forget all this crap your all on about, ALWAYS lu\oved the shape, but due t reality i purchased a 33t, it came to, i could afford to buy the 33r but not keep it, i could afford the t and keep it... WAAAaaaaaa im not over it but life goes on, il get my 33r some day eh
  7. you could just use the stock piping if your adverse to cutting, might not flow as well, but i doubt youd notice much unless your really going bigger boost, pipping popping off is a prick!, and like the man said, RUST PROOF !
  8. you could just use the stock piping if your adverse to cutting, and like the man said, RUST PROOF !
  9. id shag the bird on the right, bet she's over 18 since theres a requirement, but then im prolly only a coupla years older anyways, being the 24 i am aye that red nsx is godam nice, the drift title winner near the wall was ok
  10. read the link above, theres some real good nfo in there about installing your fmic, dammed near everything. reversing horns or using a spacer may help puting your cooler at a slight angle which would help cooling anyways, though would mess with flow a little eh (will cuase more reo *shaving*). s2 33's chop the front bar and spend some time smoothing it out, as the thread above says, anything over ?? 280mm ?? thick will need to shave reo ? mine was 300 and i had to cut into mine. be careful when messing with your reo, if you happen to bend it the wrong way it will look shonky when you re-hang the front bar of it. looks shithouse with big gaps, so will take you a while to fit the front bar properly, specially around all that piping. Guess a reminder here for anything you cut would be to rust proof it, you dont want you pride an joy developing rust, specially in places that is hard to cut out and replace.
  11. agreed above, maybe the kb warrior part was wrong eh, maybe you know what your on about and you just couldnt red what i was saying... i know this guy how, i dont exactly. I bought a skyline over any other car i could afforf, the the ford 6t included, i respect the engy that they made, yep nissan would probably have been better if they produced an engy to taht spec but they dont do that anymore that i am aware of. either way, the only point i was trying to make was that you could get rediculous power figures with stuff all mods, mostly due to capacity eh, either way point being less extractors the engy is fun even if it is in a heavier boat. moving on post hore + 1
  12. ****************** Remove intake restriction, exhaust, bigger cooler, injectors, ecu and modify the wastegate to run 10-12psi and then you will make 300rwkw safely... ****************** i was under the impression they had 3" flat channel type piping sotck... otherwise you repeated what i did, admitedly my english teacher proably rolled over in that cold grave but meh, **************************** lol yes did u read what i wrote butthead! i wrote that only an ecu edit and 300rwkw = bullshit and what u just wrote proved it .... maybe u should learn to read before making bold statements...lol and i know of 2 cars that came out of autotech still with warranty as they both had 300rwkw's and the gearboxes shat themselves....and guess what .... ford replaced them for free... and now your telling me to read the ford forum..pppfftt i dont need to read the ford forum as i was there and watched it all happen.... as i said maybe u shouldnt follow the forum like a bible and do some research ...ask around **************************** 2 things bud, first part of my post said assuming stage 1 power mods.... i did mention intake (ic not airbox admitedly), injectors (or high flow depnds on your machinist), ecu edit, didnt mention exhuast as i was under the impression it had a failry wide exhuast stock. 2nd, ford had a recall on series 1 ba's due to a problem with thier automatic boxs also for some oil seals and other stuff, also a part of this gb problem was if they detected you had performed an ecu edit some dealer ships would simply revert it to stock and replace but MOST would deny the warranty claim as the issue arose from too much torque / power through the stock box WITH TRACTION CONTROL TURNED ON which is what screwed a shitload of them. 3, your a frign tosser keyboard warrior eh? go read the ford forums and look @ the dyno sheets etc just like the man said before you yap eh? they swap out a free'er flowing front mount, run 8psi to redline or swap out injectors fuel pump and run 10 psi to redline, without swapping injectors/high flowing they cant run over 5k rpm. none had mentioned the frign exhuast so hey i made a mistake. thanks for the correction bud admitedly my mates xr6t runs 8psi on what I thought was stock exhuast...... im gona go ask him specifics stage 1 mods on a line typically means what you can easily achieve with bolt ons yea ? ecu edit only ... hmm maybe my shit house sentences mislead you an prolly others aye ? stil, refer point 3
  13. hmmm 2jz in a 25t rolling shell would be interesting, but then again still cheaper to wack on a 3lt bottom end an get hte same power less the high rpms ? hmm wonder if you could bore a block to a 3lt capacity and not enlarge the stroke hence making higher rpms possible with better cams and making the 3lt power ? how much thickness is there to play with ? I wonder if there is a block I could use to achieve what I want. .. dished head pistons, bore out a 26 block as they are thicker... mybe an N1 block thicker again..... hmmmmm i likes my higher rpms.
  14. for 1 thing lets look at "simple" mods or "stage 1" mods and thier outcomes for both cars, "power mods" forget handling we already know that outcome. xr6t, can run 8psi on 4lt's with a bloody ecu edit and in the series 1's must have the traction control turned off and walla, your @ 300rwkw's ++, no need to change exhuast system though some extra power "could" be found there certainly. with an injector upgr and depending on what your chaseing maybe a fuel pump your significantly over that.... power wise that is un friging believeable. wonder if the ford t would fit my line >>>> jokes but seriously that is big power an torque, they (ford) detuned thier turbo's to keep the v8 faster but its not very difficult to monster that, void warranty and get an ecu edit which are common as AND cheap as. 80rwkw's with a frign ecu edit is some seriously unrealised power gains... though a fmic swap couldnt hurt thier stockies are punny shite
  15. so your the bastards driving thier honda's like thier lines around ec eh ? hahahaha
  16. they are preaching to the choir *read majority of public consciousness* who always remember that fast hoon plowing through traffic.... im reminded of this yellow evo 8 hooning across 3 lanes in peak hour traffic taking the shoulder and basically on wot the entire time i saw him, then an s14 infront of me decides its time to follow this tool an stomps his 4 banger into go and starts chaseing him.... it wasnt stand still trafic but basically 1 car length between cars AS FAR AS YOU COULD SEE the ENTIRE WAY HOME... who remembers that nice s2 33 that was driving like someone who is trying to get his baby home in one piece without scratches/dings etc and not attempting to act like some fastfurious tool playing with everyone elses lives you dont see many taxi's trying to do that do you.. once again the minority that "over-represents" the resrt of us who know when and where to open up with your hobby eh ?
  17. s2 r33 with short shift kit and new syncros is the SHIT !!! short throws, smooth, slight notch but otherwise frign perfect feel, actually feels good when @ wot and change 5.5krpm and straight through... godam tight box but its not tired so meh... best box ever im with AMS... gt3 FTW !! but that might be the ease with which such a strong box changes... admitedly the guy kept his little yellow honey in good nick
  18. well your 2 options, buy some joiners and some bends got mine relatively cheap and DIY !@! or go the piping you've got since you have the just jap kit, you could buy a 180 deg bend and use stock piping route ? 180 deg bends are fugly imho but possible with a nice long straight run, by getting a bit of straight pipe and re-useing some stock piping where possible... depends on application ofcoarse with some bends you could re-use from the jj kit ? the kit as it is should fit but an option if your touchy on cutting your car or paying someone else do it for you... remember to rust proof the cut, I've seen a few who havent and the cars have gotten oxidisation/cancer...aka rust which has to be cut out and done properly after anyways. Theres some real helpful performance shops (paying for materials and the 5mins of thier time on mandrel), probably out of ofcuts but isnt going to be a problem since its longer than your going to need anyways since your after bends and enough to put a lip on it (DIY brazing FTW...easy as piss for a pc jockey anyways) they will give you more than you need and you might need to cut it. I dont know they want to do this kind of work allot as I havent asked etc but where i get mine the shop fabricates thier own kits which are seriously some great work, awsome contruction, but i imagine not a high amount of profit when it comes to selling bends etc. either way.... call your local shops for some prices etc. p.s. if your nsw / western sydney HIGHLY RECOMMEND plazmaman and co for help, great blokes, helpful and believe me the price is right for some bends and joiners etc. thier kits are pricy compared to ebay crap but take a look at the work... always something to have a gander at in the shop... (read from a distance - its not a showroom) though if your buying a kit then they will show you some of their work. show the fellas the respect you would any person aka dont be a dick and know what you want before you go.. aka need bend bla bla x degrees etc etc and they will hook you up. pricing fairly resonable... *read not taking the piss from the customer*. I've personally never bought a kit anywhere always get my bits separately and buy the material I need where I can and knock it together myself wherever possible. modding on a budget is possible but SLOW !! (read mortgage) over the top sorry but i have been impressed with the boys so im plugging em has a happy customer. *edit stuff fixing my gramar, you get what you need or you dont eh*
  19. 2jz @ 1000hp wont last long, ask any of th supra guys, though a little milder tune will see far more power standing the test of time than the 2.6 . keep awd the 2jz pawns the rb26, wieght is comparable (block), power across the rev range and mods require for continuous high rpm easily pawned. sequential twins as opposed to non-"twin scoll" manifold setup is simply better spool + power across the range. injector sizing, cams, (specifially the vvti <97+>), and the bigger brakes 95+ owns. unladen wieght is slightly more... but not much more and when you add mods and therefore "generally" more wieght its generally the same.. unless your building an all out track weapon and spend some $$$ on lighter bolt ons. power to wieght and general street work with part time track use the 2jz owns... as is the consensus here. 2jz + awd would be an interesting car but as said .... EXPENSIVE !! p.s. 2jz @ wot sounds like sex 2jz > rb26 but the 2.6 is nothing to sneeze @ either eh. not a worth while swap $$$ wise but far more easily livable on the street while making comparable power with less $$$ spent not counting the conversion costs eh ?
  20. 1jz = 2.5lt twin turb stock, same shit ceramic turb id like to see you bolt on 33 pull a 12.5... can i see you video with a mod list ? im ont being a smartass, i own a s2 33t, id like to know whjat i need to get myself roughly there without going over 250kw im htinking suspension + tyres + launch controlled foot + awsome tyres + quick shift + ... more than 250 kw ? p.s. where'd you get a "cheap" hi-flow ? ive never heard of a "cheap" hi-flow unless its farked or close to it
  21. my car was stock.. but shite, after putting on exhuast and fmic... YOU CNT GO BACK !!!, soooOOOo much more efficient, seriously that smic is sooOOO shithouse its not funny....
  22. well, after rolling her of the ramps and idling her she's back to normal, helped the ecu re-learn by idling her at 500 rpm incrrements to 6000 and only nocked 1;ce which never came back though have not loaded her up yet, seems somehow some condensation got into it, dont seem to have any bubbles in the radiator.... woohoo.,,,, soooo if idled for a minute with a lack of oil in hte head... big valve damage ? rings ? considering hte car was at 30deg incline and when dipstick was checked showed over full.... ? i would think 30 deg shouldnt be a problem ... whats going to happen when i dry up a damed hill for a while ? is the oil pickup in the front or the back of the sump ? sounds like the front and also sounds seriously shite house to starve for oil on a 30 deg incline while on a freekn ramp...
  23. Changes = piped fmic to stock piping route with 2.5" piping. the fmic was originally checked for fluids etc, turned upside down and shook etc listening for sounds and looking for more leaks, was cleaned 2 weeks prior to installation and lefty upside down with outlets facing down. This fmic has dual entries on the single side with a divder through the middle (and a decent set of end tanks). immediatly post installation the idle was ... lack of a better word .. lumpy, kicked itself up to 1k and smoothed out and settle to 800-900 rpm and stayed smooth. to test the piping i installed, making certain nothing was going to bust loose, under some load... before i put back the reo and the front bar i kick it in the guts up to 3.5k almost 4k rpms and she started gurgling... killed it, theres your half cup of water... hmmm... its relatively clear with some carbon its picked up on the way out, but relatively clear, no smell what so ever to it,... ehnce water eh ? anyways thinking some must have been in the fmic still i started her again (mistake number 2) she starts hunting etc, revs dropping close to stall, its then it goes back to idling normally... hmmm patern, give it some it spits water and and starts to die, so i give it steady throttle on 2k rpms (mistake number 3) it starts gurgling an about half second after as im turning it off it starts making a knocking noise, never heard nock before but it sounds like something nocking like something is brocken on a moving part... yurp techinical. gave it another start and it was still doing it (knocking sound) so i shut it down locked her up, grabed a beer and started kickin the f-n wall. 2.5" exhuast all the way through, no mods bar an aftermarket exhuast mated to the stock piping, now an fmic... i have a 3" exhuast but im not gona put it on till tommorow. ideas on what i did to mess it up ? couldnt feel any leaks from the piping, will do some further checking but atm think i might have cost myself some $$$$... not happy anyone got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...