gts-4 dreamer

unfortanetly mine wasnt cheap, pretty dammed good except for thos 2 listen problems. well its second hand.... wasnt expecting perfection but was looking for it eh

32 vspec 2 might b worth it, and brembos were certainly a worthy upgrade for a 32. owning an active lsd that hasnt mess'd yet i can tell you, its slightly more everyday friendly but still locks efficiently until it blows, then its supposed to be expensive..... let you know if i ever blow mine but considering i dont do burnouts mine should prolly last 4 yonks considering my car wont ever make enough power to exceed it's limitations... i think

for my 20k I went through something similar, cheaper 32R, or s2 33T, I went the 33T. Ultimately i could afford the purchase of a 32r but i could only afford to keep a 33T, 2 words, on-road costs. In all honesty I lurve my t whenever i go for a squirt out in my favorite isolated area's. for one thing, look at what all these guys are telling you. a rebuilt motor aint cheap, ontop of that add on rego and the freekn killa comprehensive insurance.... lets face it, you aint gona risk your 20-30k getting stolen / written off or otherwise lost without it... if your under 30 your insurance is still gona put a dent in your cash flow. purchase price on an old high performance vehicle like that would = half its total costs.... adding on mods etc... man you could do allot of other things with that kind of coin, deposit on a house these days aint cheap either eh

i wouldnt mind it so much if they worked a miracle and kept the awd, then atleast i could live with it, respect the 2jz admitedly pointless if your going for this sort of setup maye aswell of replaced a 25t, that would be meaningful atleast !@

so far, 97 s2 25 t, thrust bearing, my importer told me due to quick shift kit rubbing on clutch and building up small grit... not good for anything ! originally took to importer to fix issue, got back and was normal again for all of a week, bastard sprayed wd40 on the clutch and left it as it came back 2 weeks later, he stated above reason so now my car makes a high pitch squeeking sound on idle or while clutch engaged to gear, depress clutch sound goes away, crap... rear seal on gb where tailshaft meets gb, leaking gb oil, awsome, just refilled with redline shockproof light and hwile there find out hey... frign leak !, sooo next on my list... hmmmm got my cat back, got my front mount, want to purchase btmbl front/dump + thin body cat on next group buy.

same in nsw actually, the common paraphrase is if you couldnt stop in time to avoid hitting the rear of a vehicle then its your fualt for not leaving enough space, and in a 3 car job where teh rear smashs 1 car into another fair enough.... but the 5 car the misses was in... whos the blame ? i doubt the car @ the back was moving fast enough to push 3-4 vehicles into each other with enough force to smack into each other and crush respective front ends ! misses case she managed to barely stop 50-100mm from car infront in a 5 car, she was the 4th car, 5th car was an un-insured single mother in her excell with baby strapped into rear. accident cuased by some fool in a minivan locking up the brakes on the great western highway to perform illegal u-turn. shite thing is, every single person saw the bastard, yet no one could get his plates etc. aparently minor ding touch in rear on his euro - vw front end looking pannel van, as described by misses, lead car to lock up had miinor dent front and rear 3/4 car pushed in like crushed coke can. excell drive managed to hit my daily hard enough to do the same and crush the front end in enough to ruin front end, pushed radiator through clutch fan etc an bend engine mounts. she ended up paying THE LOT... 500 series beemer = 3rd car... OUCH @@! we only charged her a radiator, fan, boot lid and some cross members found @ local reka's, dont know what she copped for the rest

yep, aftermarket management will let you run a vent to atmo bov... stock ecu fuels for re-circ air from stock bov, when no air due to venting to atmo you get that shiz fart/pop from overfueling ie mega rich fuel into hot front + cat = pop, no cat = flames out of exhuast according to what I have READ !!! ps my nfo is not 100% as i have not done it, i like re-circ due to coppers having an issue with compressed air release coming from something on 4 wheels or its too loud, which ever they choose to use. yes... both are absolute bullshit but meh.... game on

I currently had an fmic with endtanks suitable for stock piping route, unfortunately the inlet/outlet sizes are both 2" which could be ok given I want to decrease lag, improving response. I shall re-visit the thread with exact sizeing but currently after using a diameter guage to measure they do = 2" what I am concerned about is that this cooler will end up cuaseing more of a restriction than intended, yes I understand it will reduce lag with smaller intake piping but overall flow may not be sufficient for my rb2.5 @ 10psi current application and future looking toward the 1.1 bar or 16psi. I am currently just wondering if this 2" inlet / outlet sizes will restrict my flow to much cuaseing my turbo to work harder effectively shortening its life and most importantly causeing higher temps at the turbo which would make this entirely pointless. any other problems I may not realise ? will the 2" piping cuase a restriction particularly at higher revs with a higher required flow

you hipocritical tossers... come on you should be ribbing ya mate ffs, considering you ALL yes pretty much ALL shamelessly hack on other peoples taste in cars, *call rice* but since this ones a mate he's a f**kwit for luaghing.... .... if that was my car I'd laugh to... I'd wonder what crack i was smoking when going.... hmm.... i feel like making my car look like a scary clown. You see, last night I had this terrible dream i was smoking crack, smoking crack in my dream in my room by myself then i woke up an i was smoking crack...huh? bingooooo........

gt3s..... eating porches is one thing but eating gt3's is another..... monster that an dady gona go sell all his toys for a shiny new one !

old az thread, never met the guy but you cant beet his nfo, read around enough places and you end up finding the bastards ALWAYS right... make a mistake you barsted eh !! give the mortals a chance

I remember something about a standard option in xr6t's where you could purchase an LPG only version from factory. Had different pistons, slightly worse k's per litre as with all gas machines and had slightly less power but lasted muuuuch longer than any conversion ever will... gas converted engines seem to always need rebuilds muuuuch sooner. but admitedly this is based of 2L conversions the old man an I did on some toyota's, read multile hiace vans a few ford taxi's 1 4.1L s pac and 3 * 4L a somethings and a izusu light truck. also had a few done by other mechs an they were pretty practised on half and full conversions which did last a few years.

what are the difference's between the awd rb25det and the rwd rb25dets besides the sump front axles and box ? I would have thought that most of the bottom and and certainly the top end would be essentially the same motor ? if so there should be plenty of bolt on products around... even a fair bit of internal's aswell

straight line punt ?... after spending the dollars she would be like a lesser capable car then an r (given the same money?), so potential for red line dump starts and whatever your power to wieght + phat white boy shifting skilz after that eh

first of all i think the guys around here must be getting bored of answering these questions, it pops up every few months or so. Since I was one of them here you go. It would be cheaper to buy the 32r, than to build a gts4-33 into a decent "baby R". eng swap > 25det or 25det NEO or 26 + management + any power mods you want to start with like some essentials > ic exhuast etc. edit >> forgot to mention supporting systems, fuel pump would need some uprating, doubt the n/a fuel pump would be good enough, umm think the radiator might be close to the same anyways but something to check as n/a's need stuff all cooling compared to the t cars. trany ? dunno if the n/a 33 had the same box but i think they did and should be ok, except the clutch would probably need some uprating. 4 to 5 stud conversion on the hubs + brake upgrades > rotors > calipers > discs tuning budget ? engy certs to get it all nice and street legal.. hmmm few $$$ there... close to 33r country eh ? and you end up with a modded gts4 instead of an R

thankyou, i've read 2 of those 3 threads before, they werent as long then but they still dont answer my questions. after re-reading them again I can see it seems to open wheel or lock but not distribute between either wheel as far as people can see, though is listed in nissan fast as a torque distribution system which could mean it either it decides to lock and distribute to both on slip detection or it may distrbiute independantly.... though thinking about the newer descriptions of the internals of the diff im thinking its more along the lines of open or lock and nothing but and will open wheel until warmed up which doesnt take long but if for instance you warm your car up like i do before taking off, cold tyres and cold diff = open wheel smoke, soooooo comp controlled locker...... mine hasnt ever been slow to react yet and i do get the pre-load few second buz on start up. cheers i think i know what i need to now, I thnk i might keep it a while longer, think it might be interested in nissans use of this lsd, open wheel to save petrol and have the l;sd when you need it ? p.s. thanks for hte links, i ignored the links i read before thinking nothing new would have come up but the user actually went through some testing with some interesting results.

why would a viscouse lsd require a controller ? lazy as in slow to engage ? crap becuase you gave so many reasons why its crap or because its expensive to repair or becuase you have experience that is somehow useful that you didnt post? Cant read your mind dude....l help a brother out an gimme something useful eh? p.s. if slip light indicates its attempting to correct the stuation and not detecting slip? then what is the a-lsd light for ? what does it indicate ? I just want to know how its supposed to react so I can tell if mine is working properly, if it is then I would change it, if its not i would like to know how it is supposed to react so i can be informed with either repair or replacement. cheers fulas

an appropriate FMIC for my application? core dimensions := Width = 400mm Height = 225mm Depth = 60mm end tanks are well shaped for flow even though its an apexi nock off with outlets aimed at the stock piping route. Im going the stock piping route becuase i dont want the return piping replaceing my guards and panels that a 1m long IC would force me to do. My application is aimed at the 1 bar 14psi mark toward the end of the power end of my buildup. So will this be useful for around summer in sydney weather durring the daily driver duties and the track days with less extreme ambient temporatures ? Im looking for the best response (yes stock piping route i get it) while maintaining a decent intake temp to the charge air so im trying to match appropriately.

agreed ss8_gohan depending on the box, some actually engage each gear in time, some have minor delay which allow this but then theres obvious disadvantages to that. Sir-D, My Nigah, same here but I drive a manual, mate between shifts and usually on a decent straigth run without shifting eh ? flip the skirt up an dip the fingers for a bit of extra eh... gota luv that fresh wax feel.

p.s. power steering leak is fugn common as in skylines also...

What situations should an active lsd deliever drive to 1 wheel more than another if infact it is capable of this as I have read in some places? what situations should it simply lock as I understand it certainly should do this? what situations should it open wheel AND deliver power if infact it is supposed to? Slip is an easy light to engage what about the alsd ? Essentially I want to know how it, I understand its hydrolically engaged lock but it seems some believe it to work in a similar fashion to the rear diff in an EVO, has this any basis in reality ? seriously confused eh cheers guyz edit : some speeeling etc

uncle / aunty owned a stage1 s1 black with gtr badges / wing etc, soo fell in love with it even though twas auto, did move, when it came to buying was looking at what I could get for my price range leaning towards evo but couldnt afford 1 point blank... then noticed... hey t's arent that expensive... shit wait... 32r's arent either... after making heart braking decision that if i bought the r i couldnt afford it really so went the t, kind of wish i hadnt since hte t is sitting in my garage not being driven just as much... frigin SDRO !! *shakes fist* anywho luvs my manual s2 active lsd model for what she is, pure bliss, screw bling factor though its nice, its all about the cornering baby....

350 atw + some looks, sure, im going for 220-250atw kw so yea, this is in that region, even higher really but i spank to a all out trak beasty eh

looking at the target market, a to b, cheap as possible while looking not with as many comforts as possible it might do the job eh ? whats the price range ? 20k new ? sounds about the goods eh ?

Hrvatski! solely croat family till i moved in with the misses, self confessed ozzie with technically a filo girlfriend, so yea, she's croat to by now.