Jump to content
SAU Community

Damo Monster

Members
  • Posts

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Damo Monster

  1. .. well i dont have any hope of finding another skyline afm round these parts so yesterday i opened the afm and resoldered all the joints.. so far, the car seems really good so i can only hope that its sorted it.. if anything, the car seems different is a good way so far.. .. oh, and my skyline has a k&n filter in it so oil contamination was a possibility.. think the contact cleaner and resolder should be close enough to call it reconditioned ....
  2. yeah it is an auto.. whats a "tps issue" sorry?
  3. cheers mate.. starting to run out of ideas if it doesnt fix it though, bad ecu anyone? yikes.. it might just be my paranoira, but im starting to think it only plays up on bloody hot days if that give anyone a clue..
  4. not sure if im too keen to put the pump on a relay like that, sould be a bit scared if the relay failed.. anyway, the bloody thing started stalling again today so i dont know.. i tore the afm out and pulled it apart.. i've resoldered the joints in it.. they looked a bit old, but will try the car again tomorrow to test it.. haveb been hunting around for another afm.. the closet i can find is one of a subaru.. the unit looks identical except the green sticker on it has the very last part of the code being different.. mine is a j60, and the subaru one is an r60.. too scared to try it though incase i blow something up
  5. hi there guys.. firstly, thank you so much for all of your contributions.. its really nice having a place to come and get some good advise when everybody around has run out of ideas... since the poor mechanic was starting to look a bit lost, i read some more faqs on here, listened to the advise, and spent the afternoon in his workshop.. i was going to do the whole earth wire mod, but after meatering the resistance between the pump and the body, i just didnt feel confident to screw around with it.. instead is dismantled and cleaned the afm and the aac valve..his scanner showed no faults until i cleaned the afm, at which point it said it was missing or faulty.. after checking the connections again, i gave the car a run, reset his scanner and then checked it again.. scanner showed up no faults so i've been driving it ever since... so far, fingers crossed and wood-a-knockin, the car seems to be running sweet and has no more stalling.. So again, thanks guys, and if any more probs arise, i'll re-post, but in the mean time hopefully we can call this one closed... Cheers, Damo
  6. yikes, just re-reading your post.. you have seen the pump drop to 10.5v WITH the earth mod done?! i hate to think what they are dropping to with just the factory wiring on their own.. they should warn people about this in BIG print on the box lol!
  7. fantastic, that seems to make a lot of sense.. it didnt occur to me that the new pump could draw more power (at least at the time lol).. i brought the walbro 341 cause i was told it was a straight replacement for the factory one.. thinking the mechainc should be able to manage with it i hoped i was doing the right thing.. i'll get a multimeter onto that pump tomorrow and see whats happening with the voltage! i take it that you had to do this mod before?
  8. oh god, im gonna sound dumb here, but i have to get this right so i can relay what to do / do it myself tomorrow.. what is the FPCM? would i be right in assuming that you are refering to the wiring loom that goes to the top of the plate where the fuel pump live under (i seem to recall it ends up being about five or six spaced out terminals)? and would i be right in assuming the the resistor is attached/switched on the ground wire, hence cuting the ground wire to the pump and simply earthing it to the body will result in it getting 13.5v full time? thanks so much for the help!!
  9. will try and examine the existing afm tomorrow.. as i said before, finding a known good one will be pretty much impossible for me to do, short of blindly buying a new one from nissan (which is probably worth more than the car )
  10. no, he just did a straight swap on the pumps.. as in factory one out, new one(s) in to factory wiring.. didnt know about the resistor circuit stuff.. is it easy enough to bypass on the r32s?
  11. lol.. yeah its funny how much faith we put in people sometimes.. i dont know anything about car repairs, but im starting to think i might as well have had a crack at it.. anyway, he has some bloody expensive scanner computer thing that he attached to the car in the beginning, but everything lit up as ok.. he also put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel lines near the engine, and thats when he said the factory pump was putting out very low pressure, and was probably the cause of all the probs.. the thing i cant figure is the change in the three pumps.. the factory one would cause the car to try and die whilst cruising at 100ks.. the second one he supplied would cause the car to try and die everytime the turbo came on.. and finally this walbro one seems to make it run sweet once its going, but cant seem to idle.. and come to think of it, im sure that car had a backfire when i was booting it a bit to test the car out with this walbro pump fitted.. it only happen once, so im not sure weather it was a backfire, or perhaps maybe i just hit a rock or something.. .. is there any chance the walbro pump would be poking far to much gas at the engine causing it to flood when trying to idle?
  12. no it seems to be the type where i slow down at an intersection, car still in drive with foot on brake to decelerate and once the cars comes to a rest, the revs drop right off and it dies.. if that helps isolate the problem?
  13. cheers for gettings back to me.. i dont think i have any hope of finding another afm anytime soon, so how do i clean the one i have? could i pull it apart and use contact cleaner or something? cheers
  14. OK, so to give you a short version of the story: I was cruising along in my R32 GTS-t do around 100km/h when all of a sudden it tried to stall/die on me about 5 times.. I wasn't on boost or anything, just cruising.. .. So I took it to the mechanic, who changed the fuel filter and ordered a fuel pump for it as he said the pressure out the the factory one was very low, indicating it was probably stuffed.. .. THREE WEEKS later he finally got some cheap looking no/name brand and fitted it.. When I drove the car after that, it tried to die/stall EVERY time it hit boost.. So I took it straight back.. .. He seemed to think maybe the pump was faulty or the wrong one.. At this stage I had really had enough, so I went on the net and had a 500hp Walbro pump delivered the next day.. Took it into him, and got him to fit it.. .. The car now seems to run sweet, wether cruising or boosing.. BUT.. if it comes to rest or idle, it now stalls/dies.. OMFG!!!! After fitting the pump that he supplied, I reset the ECU, other than that it had had the fuel filter changed, and I got an oil change while I was there.. Other than that, the car is fairly factory other than a turbo back 3" exhaust and a KN Panel filter. Also the car is an auto and is still running the factory RB20DET... If anyone has any ideas what could possible be causing this, PLEASE let me know as I really miss my car and I'm not really sure this mechaninc knows what hes doing anymore Cheers, Damo
  15. cheers for the help! gives me something solid to start on
  16. since the car was traveling at 80 -100km at the time of the drop, and so doing around 2.5 - 3k rpm, wouldnt that rule out the aac vavle? just trying to think of what might cause this so i have somehwere to start.. any input is welcome! cheers..
  17. will look at changing the fuel filter and see what happens.. the only think ive changed recently is adding a full 3" turbo back exhaust.. but that was about 2000k's ago and its only started doing it now.. is there anyway way to check the o2, afm and aac valve?
  18. Hi there.. Hey my R32 GTS-t has started trying to stall when cruising at about 100ks.. It hasnt done it a lot, but it gives ya a bit of a fright when your car tries to die as your driving it on the highway lol.. anyway, it seems to try and die when its cruising, not under any great load or anything.. the cars an auto, so no change in bov.. thinking it could be a fuel filter cause im not sure when it was last done, esp because of the way it drops power very fast for about 2 seconds and then comes right.. the thing im wondering here is most fuel filters ive seen are made of like a clear semi transperant plastic.. but the on in this car is quite an old looking silver tin one.. is there any chance it could still eb the factory one or something? cheers
  19. you mean open up the speed cluster and adjust it there? is there any tutorials or info on what do do to adjust it that you know of? or do you think id be better replacing the speedo cluster? ha ha, your right about the speeding tickets, but little things like this drive me nuts ha ha.. cheers, damo
  20. i have 205/55/16 on mine.. do you think maybe it should have been 50? or would changing to 50 have any bearing on the speedo? cheers
  21. hi there.. its a gts-t so its got a rb20det motor and gearbox.. auto too..
  22. Hi there.. In trying to figure out why my speedo is 10ks out (100 on the speedo is 90ks in the real world) I was wondering if perhaps the tyre size on the car is wrong? Does anyone know exactly what size tyres are supposed to be on a R32 GTS-T running factory 16" rims.. the car is an m-spec with the spoked alloys with the skyline logo in the centre.. any help would be awesome.. Thanks, Damo
  23. Hi guys, In my r32 i have kinda got the feeling lately that 100kms per hour isnt very fast... checked my speedo against the navman, and also against a mates car by following, only to find that when the needle says 100kms, i'm actually doing 90... and when it says 110, i'm doing 100.. is there anyway i can adjust/fix this or is it time to see a mechanic? cheers guys, all help appreciated.. damo
  24. hi there.. right, i was considering lowering my r32 gts-t sedan.. but after using the search, and reading for hours on how many people have asked these questions, i'm starting to get entirely put off the idea of lowering.. i cant afford to buy coilovers, or a complete set of new shocks, and as i live in nz, i cant use the group buy on the whiteline kits... however, my r32 has blue coloured nismo gas shocks... i have no idea weather these are good ones or not, all i know is they have no english on them other than nismo, they are blue and are gas, and made a massive diffreence to the car over the standard stuffed ones.. i also do not know how many k's they have travelled but seemed (according to mechanic) to be in good order.. the thing is, can i lower my car? and what is safe with these shocks or iis it just nto worth it... my car has neve seen a track, and probably never will as its just a daily driver, and i still have the standard gtst rims on the car, but i would like to drop it with a set of king or (spelling) doobi sport springs (as im told they are softer riding) springs using just the "low" set, not super low.. any adivse on these shocks would be appreciated, i dont want to spent $600 to make my car handle like shit... cheers, damo
  25. awesome.. thanks for that.. cheers for all of the quick replies... thanks, damo
×
×
  • Create New...