Mick

hey i need to replace these, easy job and i have no problems doing it but i am curious if anyone has used the blue gaskets from ebay, some are selling the kits for around $160 and some are selling the exact same kit for around $70, and there are alot of different prices in between as well, but i was wondering what the quality of the gaskets is like

hey i have an r33 gtst and the internal contacts of the solenoid that give power to the starter motor are stuffed but the solenoid is a sealed unit so i carnt remove the back of it to put new contacts in it so does anyone know what new solenoid will fit my starter motor? one that has a removable back so if i ever have a problem i can replace the contacts in it, there are just so many aftermarket solenoids around and its hard to know what one will fit perfectly

bump

hey im after a silver r33 gtst s2 bonnet in victoria, preferably closest to ballarat area but if i have to travel i will, im looking for one in silver with no dents so it can be put straight on with no painting needed

i need to find a secondhand set to test out, i need a new bonnet cos i hit a kangaroo last night anyways

and plugs are 0.8 im using

oh sorry i ment the premium 95 but now does it on 98 as well, i never run on 91 unless emergency and i have octane booster in car just in case, i feel like its coil packs cos maybe it started after i put the coil pack cover back on im not sure, i never used to have it on

hey my car has been doing this for a long time now, it seems to pop pop pop pop and hesitating if im taking off from a stopped position, if im gentle it doesnt do it but if i take off a bit quickly it will do it, it used to only do it with 91 octane but now does it even on 98. Its much worse on hot days, it happens alot worse on high boost but still does it but not as bad on normal boost. Could this be coilpacks? the car is an R33 GTST S2, no real mods and high boost is only 11psi and low is about 6psi

does anyone know if having a skinnier top radiator is going yo effect anything like restrict proper coolant flow or anything and lead to overheating?

this mackay replacement hose is alot smaller diameter, it wasnt easy to stretch it over the radiator outlet, it says its the right one but it must just be a terrible attempt at a replacement top radiator hose for an ree gtst by mackay

Hey i just brought one from bursons who says its the only one listed for my car but it looks alot smaller/skinnier than the one on my car, it is a Mackay CH3195. On its sticker it has that it is for 1991-1993 rb25de but my car is a 1996 rb25det, so does anyone know if the non turbo r33 uses the same top radiator hose as a turbo one?

the teins have always been very firm from the day i got them, i noticed it more when i put 19’s on the car

my old tein height adjustable ones that im going to be taking off the car work fine but i think 2 of them are a bit noisy, they make a sucking in and out noise but still preform perfectly, does that mean they are not good to sell?

hey i got a set of stock r33 suspension to put onto my gtst cos my wife is complaining the tein height adjustable ones are too rough. The stock ones i got for free and the fronts look ok but the rear ones have rust on the tops, it looks like they were stored outside so rain must have built up into the tops which is like a little bowl that would have held water in there nicely to rust them up, the rust was scabby and scaly and i got as much as i could off but because of the location of it its impossible to get it all off, i dont know how deep the pitting is and i worry about its structural integrity especially cos its a suspension top which i assume has lots of load on it constantly. it would be hard to try remove all of it and treat and paint it to stop any further rust cos i can only get my little finger in the channel even with a screwdriver i still carnt get to all of the rust. What do you guys think, im thinking i need a new back set or new tops

anyone know anything about this

hey i have an r33 gtst that has castor rod bushes that are cracked and leaking the silicone filling thats in them, so i have stock suspension that im putting back into the car soon cos the wife is complaining that the tein ones are too rough so while im changing the suspension i may as well do the castor arms at the same time, now i found a cheap set close to me but something doesnt look right to me about them, they are upgraded adjustable ones which i dont care about cos i would have grabbed stock ones if i found any close to me but the end of them looks offset compared to others i have seem photos of and i was wondering if they are ok and will work. i will upload 2 photos, the new shiny ones are the reference photo and the old ones are the ones i was going to buy

they are pretty much the same price of plastic tank ones on ebay so i may as well go for an alloy one. Not for performance benefits or anything, just cos its alloy so i assume it will be stronger and last longer

i have a crack on the base of the filler neck on the stock one, i looked around and found a few cheap alloy ones not too far away but they are for a manual. I looked on ebay and at first only manual ones came up but i just managed to find auto ones just a moment ago, one from a place called melbourne hi cooling, and another called worley, i dont know if they are any good or not but im thinking about ordering one of them.

perfect thanks for that mate i appreciate it

or are you saying that i can put a manual one in and that i dont need to change anything?

thankyou that explains it nicely, so what about my question about putting a manual radiator in, cos my radiator is cracked so i need to put a new one in and i can only find manual radiators around in my area, so do you think an auto car can use a manual one if i put a better oil cooler on it than the stock one that’s already on it?

hey i have done alot of reading here already but im still confused, i wanted to install an alloy radiator that is for a manual into my r33 gtst s2 auto, the car already has a stock oil cooler and i thought i could put the manual radiator in it and simply replace the stock oil cooler with an upgraded one but then i was doing research some people said its ok and some said it wouldn’t be good cos it would make it to cold and the auto wont preform properly cos they said the radiator cooling section for the auto helps get the oil to operational temperature. That sounds confusing to me, are they trying to say it warms it back up a little or that it warms or cools it depending on the oil temperature at the time, so as if it normalizes it or something. Maybe im overthinking it but i just thought i would as your opinions, and maybe hear from someone who has actually put a manual one in there auto and can tell me what they done exactly