Mick

ben i was under the car and checked it out very thoroughly, its not easy for me to get under a car so when i do get under there i check it all out really good so i dont have to go back under to check again lol, so thats why i knew it wasnt something leaking on it from above it. Thanks jiffo for that info, would it be something i could do myself? im very good mechanically but its just with my back i have to make sure i get get to it all without bending in awkward positions, and do i need a press to install the actual bushes?

well its obviously engine control so something relating to the ecu like o2 sensors or afm etc, i would check them all and try again. What is this 1 pin you mentioned?

hey this is the second time i have noticed some kind of sticky fluid on the bottom of the front left torsion rod, i just wiped it and even though it has a slight black color to it that is just from normal carbon and crap build up and it seems like the fluid was a thick sticky clear fluid, i took a photo of it and as you can see there is nothing leaking near it or above it and the clean part on the bar in the photo is there i wiped off black crap and dirt and it was dry so the only wet bit is the bottom of it, so what could it be? the rubber bushing in it is cracked so im wondering if it could come out of it

6 of my kapanol and 2 of my old oxycontin. It may not seem like alot but they are very strict and keep close monitoring of them so it is so hard to save up some spares for emergencies, im very annoyed but I had my doctors the other day so i got my new lot so im happy, i have lower disc degeneration in my back and it gives me severe pain.

anyone have ideas?

yeah that was 10yrs ago tho, i just need to get the sensors calibrated, its usually always locked in my shed so it hasnt been a big concern

yeah i need to get mine calibrated so it doesnt go off all the time, i spent $1600 on it so it is a good one, i have the car monitor which has an lcd puc of a car and if my alarm goes off it tells me and shows me what set it off like door open or ultrasonics or motion detect etc

Update - my friend heard that someone was trying to sell the same medication that was stolen out of my car at the local pub close to where my car was parked so im going to try find out who it was tomorrow after my doctors appointment yay!!

well you mentioned that this is a new clock so i assume the old one had the same problem?? Anyways if this is correct i would be looking at the wires going into the plug cos i know from experience that it is a tight plug to push in and even harder to pull out and cos of that most people usually grab on the wires to get a better grip when unplugging it and that could easily lead to a bad connection into the plug, you could test this easily with a multimeter as it is a simple 12v type of device so just check the power wire in the plug

putting your valuables into your boot and using the valet switch on the boot so that the boot lever beside your seat is disabled and only the key can open it really is the perfect solution for keeping valuables safe just in case someone actually gets in

but seriously no one here is telling how to break in, if someone said that they may have picked my door lock that does nothing to help someone pick an actual lock but i do see where your trying to go with it

the words "break in to skyline" was posted by you lol so if someone searches for it thanks to you they will now be able to read this haha

ah maybe thats how they got in, at least they didnt damage the car to get in

89cal - lighten up i wasnt asking how to break in or a step by step on how to break into a car.. geez Ben - yeah thanks for tips i have an alarm but i dont use it cos it keeps going off for no reason i need to adjust the sensors or something. Someone mentioned to me about the Valet thing, and this is the best idea, its perfect

and even if it looks good you should change the red 10a Tail Light fuse located on the bottom row of the fuse panel under your dash, when doing your headunit you probably have popped the fuse and i have seen fuses pop and still look good visually so please just try it, if you dont have a new 10a just swap one from somewhere just to check

do you have a crappy dimmer installed on your dash? cos if you do and its faulty it will cause your dash lights and tail lights to stop working on an r32

Hey i was wondering if its possible to jimmy a locked door on an r33? I walked back to my car and my door was unlocked and my tablets were stolen (the only thing stolen actually) and i know it was locked cos i always double check it cos i keep tablets in the car for emergencies or if i carnt get home in time. So how did they unlock my door and how can i stop this from happening again cos these tablets are very important to me and now i dont have an emergency stash

does anyone have a 90a one for sale either from a S1 R33 or GTR

thankyou so much that helps me out, im guessing the s1 will fit the s2 which is what i want

are you saying that a series 1 gtst has a 90a and the series 2 has a 80a?

2 new S10L7's at the right ohms would run awesome on the ZR1000, 1 on each channel and i know that this amp would be putting out way more than the 500 stated for each channel just like the birth certificated state on the ZR240. Another problem is that these old school kicker amps arnt as efficent at the new class d ones so it will draw lots of power from my car

and yes it is weird that the ZR1000 puts out less at 2ohms bridged than at 4ohms bridged but it is right and not a typo lol

Hey i have alot of old school Kicker audio equipment that is all mismatched and i want your opinions on what to do, i will start off by giving you a list of what i have: 1 x Kicker ZR1000 amp 3 x Kicker ZR240 amp 1 x Kicker RS6 Splits 100wrms 1 x Kicker S10L7 Sub 600wrms Now my main problem is that i carnt get the right amount if amps to my speakers cos of the wrong ohms, here are the specs: ZR1000 4ohm Stereo 250x2 2ohm Stereo 500x2 1ohm Stereo 350x2 4ohm Bridged 1000x1 2.66ohm Bridged 1000x1 2ohm Bridged 700x1 ZR240 4ohm Stereo 60x2 2ohm Stereo 120x2 1ohm Stereo 150x2 4ohm Bridged 240x1 2.66ohm Bridged 300x1 2ohm Bridged 300x1 My sub is a dual2 unfortinatly so i can make it a 1ohm or a 4ohm sub and as you can see from the specs the closest i could get for the sub is to use 1 channel of the ZR1000 at 1ohms giving it 350w instead of the 600 it needs and the closest i can get my splits is using the ZR240 at 4ohm stereo giving it 60w instead of the 100w they need. Anyone who knows about these ZR series amps know that they are underrated by kicker and come with a birth certificate showing what it actually got when tested so i only want to put what the amp is rated at into them cos they are underrated. For example one of the ZR240 birth certificate has that it put out 373w at 4ohm bridged instead of 240w. I dont have the birth certificate for the ZR1000 unfortinatly, i would have loved to see what it put out. Anyways as you can see it is all mismatched so what would you suggest i do?

thanks for the info, i do want to eventually get a big aftermarket one cos i do have alot of audio equipment sitting there waiting to put in and its all old school kicker stuff that requires alot of power inlike there newer class D stuff but just for the moment i want to put a gtr one in cos mine is not working properly i think. And yeah im going to run all new wiring even on this alternator so when i do get a big aftermarket one it will be ready to go straight in. I actually started a new thread about wiring upgrade, i want to just use 8 gauge for the positive and negative and use stinger terminals and not the crimp on style ones i mean the proper thick allen key type ones but im not sure how the terminals will fit cos they must sit correct cos its not like you can bend these type of terminals to fit

either its the control panel switch or the actual motor, if you have a multimeter you can check this out. Im pretty sure i remember seeing a thread about fixing the control panel around here before so do a search, but either way you should use a multimeter to track down which one has died