Mick

just today i fixed the oil heater in my house by unplugging the temperature probe and cleaning out the terminals and plugging it back in lol

i would try disconnect the battery and unplug all the airbag plugs and then plug them back up and unplug the airbag computer and plug that back up again and then plug the battery back up and reset the airbag computer and see if the airbag light stays off, if it finds a problem with it then it will go back on. Isnt there also a sensor in the bumper bar for the airbag as well? im not to sure but if there is try unplug and plug that back up as well. You would be amazed at how just unplugging something and plugging it back in can fix a problem if it has to do with a connection, and there are alot of wires on the airbag computer and it would only take 1 of them to have a bad connection for it to show up an error. It may not work but its definatly worth a try, it doesnt cost anything

for those who dont know what terminals in talking about its these type of ones in the pic, this is my 4 gauge one but i will be using 8 gauge on the alternator. As you can see they must fit right on the alternator cos they wont bend to fit

Hey i have an R33 GTST and my alternator isnt good so im going to put a 90amp GTR one in and while i am at it i want to upgrade some of the wiring. Im going to run new 8 gauge wires for the positive and negative using stinger or aerpro terminals (not the crimp on ones) and i will run a new 4 gauge engine to chassis ground with stinger terminals which i already have, so does anyone know what other earth or positive wires would be worth me upgrading? Also has anyone done this on there alternator before and if so how did you go with the terminals cos the gold terminals with the alen key screws are kinda chunky and will not bend so they have to sit right or it wont work, from what i could see i could point the earth one down and the positive one pointing to the side of the car

hey im after an alternator for my R33 GTST and i was told that a 90amp GTR one will be a direct fit so if anyone has a 90amp GTR alternator that will fit in my gtst please let me know

if you need software i can help you out, i have a few different ones that are good. Just email me at [email protected] and i will see what i can do for ya

i have an r33 gtst, does anyone know if a gtr one will fit straight in. I know the stock gtst one is 80amp and a gtr one is 90amp and i know that the positive bolt post is a bit bigger, i think gtst is 6mm and a gtr one is 8mm so that wont be a problem for me but i need to know which GTR one will bolt straight in to my R33 GTST, an R32 GTR or R33 GTR or an R34 GTR one

wow thats pretty good work there, i have a bad alternator and i was getting ready to put a new or secondhand one in but after reading your problem i will try that first, i have an r33 so my battery is in the boot so i first might try just running a second wire from alternator to the engine fuse box cos it has big terminals on it meant for jumpstarting

that is a very good point, if you are bridging those exact pins in the picture and nothing is happening you may have an aftermarket ecu, some are a full replacement and some just change the circuit board in the original one, rip the passenger side kick panel off and have a look, if you see apexi or something like that on it then its aftermarket

these are the pins posted by another member

ok maybe you arnt bridging the right pins, turn your ignition on and when you bridge the pins the engine light will turn on, keep it bridged for a few seconds and then release the pins and the engine light will flash your codes at you. The only alternative is to hook it upto a consult program an a laptop using something like datascan, you will need a special cable to do this

does anyone know anyone who may have a copy of this or does anyone know where i could purchase a copy cos i have searched and searched and i carnt fund any place to buy it from, its like it has just disappeared which is a shame cos it looked like it was a good program and it was the only other pocketpc program out there besides the awesome and free ECUTalk which i love

That thick black wire is the aerial wire which goes all the way from the rear power antenna all the way to the front radio, that smaller black wire is directly connected to that top section of the rear window that looks like a demister, that smaller wire is joined side by side with the thick main aerial.

can even 1 person with an R33 GTST S2 say for certain that this top section is supposed to heat up? Cos now that i have removed the interior plastics i can see that it is an antenna and im pretty sure it is not ment to heat up. That section has 1 wire and it joins up along side of the antenna which goes to the radio.

mine seems to be a lil like that at the monent, i will run a bottle of injector cleaner through mine, you should do the same cos its cheap and even if it doesnt help at least your injectors will be clean lol

Hello i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a copy of this from, there website no longer exists so i carnt buy it from them. I just got my ipaq pocketpc connected to my car and i put ECUTalk on it and i love it, i love being able to view it all on the ipaq and i really would love to have both of the software programs on it

no worries josho i will try work out how to get it working again, i have done it before so i can do it again, i will start working out how to fix it tomorrow and i will let you know as soon as i work it out again

thankyou i will try track her down. And if anyone here has a copy of it please let me know

pls someone must know the answer to this, or can someone with an r33 pls check to see if that top section heats up as well

Hello sorry if this is a dumb question but on my R33 GTST the rear demister top section does not heat up, now im pretty sure it is actually an antenna but im not sure if it is supposed to heat up as well. Can anyone clear this up for me and let me know if there one heats up as well or not.

Here is how to make an Ipaq serial cable so you can connect your Ipaq to your Consult serial cable so you can use Ecutalk on your PocketPC. This will work on all IPAQ 1900, 2200, 2400, 3800, 5400 and 5500 Series models. I made one for my HP IPAQ h5550 and it works perfect IPAQcon.pdf Does anyone actually have EcuXtend?

nah i just used a different program instead, i got lots of nissan scantool type of programs. I will have another play with it and work out how to fix it again cos i did fix it last time but i just forgot what i done but i should be able to get it going if i spend a bit of time working on it. Also does anyone here have the EcuXtend pocketpc program??

Factory Service Data

i would run a bottle of injector cleaner through your car, i had a surging problem and it also made the idle a bit erratic and injector cleaner fixed it on mine, injector cleaner is cheap and its worth a try

i just removed and opened up my sender and when i checked the ohms it was jumping all over the place so i cleaned both sides of it really good and it was better but i wasnt getting a reading from 8 to 90 ohm range, it was still a gradual increase but a little higher ohms, so i cleaned it really good again and now its in the right range now, so anyone cleaning there sender make sure you keep cleaning it until you get a reading range from 8 to 90ohms, i also cleaned the float spring needles by running a very fine grade sandpaper through it the middle of it a few times, you will know what im talking about when you open it all up. Also i did notice that there is a small jump from about 35 to 52 when you are testing it and this is normal, if you look on the slide you will notice there is a section change at that point.