Mick

I know its an old thread but I just read it for the firs time. I would love xenons for my r33 but the conversion kits you can buy just wouldnt be the same as te factory ones cos on the r33 the headlight reflectors are different for the xenon models, and im not to sure about the lenses, they may be glass because of the heat that xenons produce cos the factory halogen ones are just polycarbonate.. I would love a set of factory xenons for my r33 ..

I just switched to shell helix ultra 5-40 and its great in my r33gtst. From memory pressure is a tad under 2 when car is at idle (after driving) and goes up to 4 when driving .. more or lss depending on what speed im on ..

Yep im 99% positive on that cos it has to be present in your saliva

it only tests saliva and even thor thc stqays in ya fat cells for up to 3 months it isnt in your saliva unless you had a bong a few hours earlier, with amphetamines im not sure what te go would be with taken oraly/sniffed to injected cos both ways give u the dries and make your saliva clagy .. either way as stated b4 i dont think the tester will be for everyday use ..

Either way the hick ballarat cops probably wouldnt have access to new stuff like that anyways ..

what do you all think of this new drug tester that all the cops are floggin off over ... I hope it never hits the roads like previous models they have had. I mean it might not affect everyone but it will affect me and if they ever ask me to chew on the tester thingy i will tell them exactly where they can insert that tester ... I reckon that it wont be used because it would take extensive cross testing to see if anything gives faulse readings like some cough mixtures and sudafed that contain pseudoephedrine which is a main chemical that is used im amphetamines..

Oh thats more than i got on my last dyno run .. yer im ashamed to admit it but i only got a shity 152rwkw, but i only had the stock cooler then ... and tat was at 12psi but the plugs were gapped at 1.1 at the time so it detionated hard on the way home, but im not sure that if i had a .8 gap then that it would have given me a few more rwkw's ..

But if he reads the thread i posed he can fix quickly, it only takes about 10 seconds to do it ..

I desperatly need the email address of cusco.. Anyone know it ??

Edge - I have a Series 2 GTST auto and ive got her upto 245km/h b4 i had to slow down for a corner so she may have had more, If you get a cut out at 190 its because you have your O/D OFF, turn you O/D on and you will get to 245+ on an open road. Im wondering if anyone here has an auto gtst with similar mods to mine so i'll know roughly how much rwkw i'll get when tuned up again .. Apexi Pod S-AFC 12 psi Boost Cat Back Exhaust HKS Front Mount NGK Vgroove's 0.8gap

No its not an amp, i know the box your refering to, it has several wires on the plug. Orange - to the front of the car somewhere Black - Ground Grey - Goes to the Restistor pack near the Jack &Power Antenna Lt Blue - Goes to Fuel Pump and to the top plug on the boot fuse/relay box (which then goes to the blue relay on the side of that box which is for the fuel pump), it also goes to the front of the car somewhere .. I hope this helps you out

I have posted a thread about this a while ago telling you how to reset the airbag computer. That fixes the flashing light .. Just do a search for posts made by me. Im not sure how long ago i posted it or what i called the thread ..

Yeah thanks for the info.. I think i'll leave the pan. But as for the ex man gasket and studs there definatly leaking cos there is all carbon crap there but only on the ones where there is broken studs .. i have strong fumes in the engine bay as well .. since i will need a new gasket what about machining, will i probably need to do it? cos i heard tat they warp a little sometimes ..

Hey i have a few questions that i hope u all could help me with. 1 - I have Tein HR heigt adj suspension in my car and i also have a set of JIC height adj coilovers as a spare set. Which coilovers are better? I might try post a pic of both so you can tell better. 2 - I put some Nulon Engine Oil Flush in my car today and started it and let her idle for about 20mins, turned car off and dumped the oil. Now im wondering if it would be worth removing and cleaning the sump? It looks like i just need to take the sway bar and the two auto trans brackets out to be able to remove it, is that right? Also what is the liquid sealant used for the sump called? 3 - i have 2 exhaust manifold studs broken off, the two end ones (front and back) and there is carbon buildup from the gasket at both of these places, now it would be stupid of me to not to replace all of them at once but is it possible that i would need it machined before i put a new ex man gasket on ? if so is it a job for the pros or could i do this with a block and sand paper .. 4 - When I went to remove the oil filter i remembered that i didnt have a filter wrench, anyways i used my thumb and index finger to grab the end of it and it turned ...**** ... it was that loose and not a drop of oil leaking out of it .. Is this normal? Also the filter was a Ryco Z442 which there catalog says is for a sr20det (and a few others) but none of them were an RB engine.. I brought the proper Z145a for it and there is a big difference in size... the 442 looked and fit perfect and the 145a looks big and bulky even thoe its the right one. Wonder if it would hurt to use a Z442 instead of Z145a. 5 - I found a leak that has been hissing at me for months and months finaly ... It is the pcv gromet that goes into the cam cover ...Anyone know where i can buy a few of there from ? Yeah I would not recommend Nulon Engine Oil Flush for people with heart conditions, epilepsy, high blood pressure or people who dont like to hear there car in SERVERE pain. To put it mildly "I SHIT MYSELF" after puting the crap in wit the oil i started the car and it wasnt singing like she normaly does ... I would say that the best way to describe the noise it was making was "like someone smashing your cars internals with a large sledge hammer" this went on for a few mins and started to get quieter... but shit it was loud.. But i do admit it sounded all good b4 i turned it off to dump the oil .. So fingers crossed that no damage was done ... I got Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 to put in her as well as some new NGK Vgroove's (BCPR6E).

My SAFC (blue screen model) died the other day, the orange button lights still light up but they flicker as if the volts are intermitently droping, and the main blue screen doesnt light up at all. Im pretty sure that the screen isnt blown cos the unit doesnt work, the car wouldnt start cos the unit cuts into the afm signal wire, so i know the functions arnt working, if it were just the screen the functions would possibly still work .. So has anyone had this problem with there SAFC before ? Ive opened it up and removed and checked the electrolytic capacitors and they all were good .. I can also hear a ticking noise from the unit, si im thinking it could either be 1) Transformer 2) Voltage Rectifier 3) Transistor 4) Zener Diode Or a combination of one to all of the above ... Anyone have any clues for me ...

buds4all@hotmail.com I would love a copy as well thankyou ..

the installer worked it all out. I dont know if it is a time thing eg 5secs to close .. or if he used some other method .. I know there are 2 relays used for the sunroof ..

Im not sure how old they are, im tryin 2 remember when i brought them .. They havent been hooked up to a car, they had a 4hr breakin done on them so they are ready to hook up, but i never ended up puttin the system in my kingswood.

I read in an old thread about a mod that can be done to the R32 auto trans that make it shift quicker, all you have to do is unplug a connector near the engine bay fuse box. Does anyone know if there is a way of dong this in an R33 ?

green machine - what offset are the volks

OK I HAVE POSTED THIS BEFORE BUT PEOPLE STILL SEEM TO STUPID TO READ IT EVEN WHEN I TELL THEM WHAT THREAD I POSTED IT IN ... ANYWAYS HERE IS HOW YOU FIX THE FLASHING AIRBAD LIGHT. THIS IS HOW TO RESET THE AIRBAG COMPUTER First you have to put the system into the diagnostic mode. Here's how to do this: From User Mode To Diagnosis Mode: Diagnosis Mode activates only when a malfunction is detected, by pressing the driver's door switch at least 5 times within 7 seconds after turning the ignition "ON". SRS will not enter Diagnosis Mode if no malfunction is detected. From Diagnosis Mode to User Mode: After a malfunction is repaired, switch the ignition "OFF" for at least 1 second , then back "ON". Diagnosis Mode returns to User Mode. If switching Diagnosis Mode to User Mode is required while malfunction is being detected, switch the ignition "OFF", then back "ON" and press the driver's door switch at least 5 times within 7 seconds. After a malfunction is repaired, return to User Mode from Diagnosis Mode by switching the ignition "OFF" for at least 1 second, then back "ON". At that time, the problem code is cleared OK THIS WORKS ON ALL NISSAN CARS FITTED WITH AIRBAGS ... SORRY IF I SEEM A LITTLE SNAPPY BUT I HAVE BEEN ASKED THIS LIKE 100 TIMES ... Enjoy...

Hey i have had an intermitent loud knock noise from my engine and it seems to run a little noisy, the car hadnt been started for about a month and for most of this time the plenum and a cam cover was off, but i had gladwrap covering exposed areas. Now i remember quite a while ago now when i polished the cam covers and put them back i noticed it ran noisy (ticking noise). The knock noise i beleive came from when the detanated some time ago (Sounds like it coming from the turbo ). Now im wondering if changing the engine oil would be qa good idea. Because the cam covers have been off couldnt the oil have gone a little tacky and maybe making the valves/lifters stick a little. Also what oil should i use, its a rbr2det, i can get fuchs 0w20 cheap, would this be good to use ? Anyways any help would be apreciated ..

I sent you a PM...

Yep still for sale - $4000 calvin check your pm again.. thanks ..

Cell - I had the same problem and i posted a thread about it and how to fix it as well .. you dont have to disconnect the battery either ... do a search for my thread called "airbag scam" Ive seen the dash you have got b4 .. it looks mad .. i was goin 2 buy one but it didnt come with the remote and computer .. its similar to the r34 one in function (speed, revs, a/flow, o2, etc etc .) It has rca jacks in the back of it so you can plug whateva up to it .. Is it working ? I doubt that the computer would be installed. As far as i know this was a special nismo 400r optional dash .. If u eva interested in sellin it let me know ..