Mick

Its kinda hard to tell from the pic what kinda finish they are. Are they painted and clear coated or are they polished alloy ? If they are polished alloy use a metal cut'n'polish type cream to clean them. Or if they are painted and clear coated what may have happened is the clear coat has slightly peeled/cracked and let air in and oxidization has caused the blemishes, it will be kinda noticable cos the blemish will be under the clear coat and no amount of washing will get rid of it. You could cut and polish it till the clear coat is removed, but if this is what happened its better to take it to a mag specialist to fix it. You should have mag repairers round your area somewhere.

when i get my car back, give it a few weeks and i should have an r33 ser2 mspec one u can buy, also the front spoiler if interested ..

does ne1 know how to test the igniter/coil packs in the rb25det series2 ???

Rock em on .... I want em now ..... damn it ... i would mount some REAL xenon units behind them, they come in red (check out the farnell catalogue $100each) ... But who knows if it would work like i want it too ... It would be an expensive way to fine out ... i supose i should be more concerned with gettin the car fixed first ...

Yer i regularly exercise my speedo needle .. its a part of maintenance .. hehe... I get usualy get it to 240ks or so, doesnt feel like its struggling either, but i havent tested past 240 yet ... The main thing i notice is how hard on the brakes it is when u try to slow down, this is why they have aftermarket brakes for sale i supose ... Feels quite stable as well...

did u notice that some of your plug electrodes had burnt off after this ?? If so u might try reading this post http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...25&pagenumber=1 Let me know how u go ...

Well it seems that they are just not an idea that i came up with and wanted to try work out how to make tem ... They exist somewhere .... If anyone knows where to get these just let me know ...

Mine is pink ..

If it is a fmic im interested also ... please email me at buds4all@hotmail.com

Can someone please help me. What i need to know is when i do the compression test can i leave the crossover pipe (IC to Throttle) off when im crankin the engine. Because if i have to do it with it connected it will be hard to get the tester in ..

Umm not sure what u got sourced but tere is a guy who has a complet r33 gtst gauge cluster. I think he wants 300ono .. Not sure if its series 1 or 2 thoe, but thought i'll let u know

I carnt see why not, as long as its tha same shape, dont know bout boost section thoe.... Whats wrong with old one ? r u sure it carnt be fixed ?

Hopefuly it didnt, but i wont know till i rip em out. Preferably dont wana rip em out till i know if i have 2 connect all plumbing and pipes back up ..

The plugs are only a month old, carnt remember what brand, but they cost me $28each. I wana check there gap, so i wanted to a comp test as well.. The main thing i need to know is do i have to connect the cross over pipe and cam cover vent pipe back up b4 i crank the car ?

Does anyone know exactly how 2 do a compression test on a rb25det and what the factory figures are ? I kinda know how but a few tings im not sure about. Like is it ok to leave the cross over pipe (IC to Throtle) and the hose that goes from one cam cover to the other off while cranking te engine ? Am i suposed to have accel pedel flat to floor while cranking ? When is the best time to do it (engine warm or engine hot) ? So from my knowledge so far, 1) Remove fuel pump fuse or block fuel hose after filter. 2) Remove everything in my way to get to the plugs. 3) Unplug coil packs, remove 1 plug and stick tester in. 4) Hold open throttle fully and crank engine until the reading steadys. 5) Put plug back in and repeat for each cylinder.

Yep its called PLEXUS, trust me when i say its the best stuff ive tried ..... I carnt beleive how new my lenses looked ... It was designed for aviation for cleaning there gauges and stuff.. There is an actual site for it ... http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com

Plexus works realy realy good, its avaliable at most autobarn stores, its a spray kinda polish that will bing it up like brand new, it cuts and polishes clear plastic, thats whats its designed for, it also does alot of other surfaces ...

Yep ive done this b4, just pop all clips off, there is one tiny screw u have 2 undo near the corner lights, then just use a hair dryer or heat gun on low to just heat the black elastic sealant while you are gently prizing the unit apart ..

Ok please forgive me if i sound dumb, but arnt these called coilovers (see pic) I always thought coilovers were oil filled shockers that had the springs mounted over them.... Is this not correct ? The tein coilovers i brougt were the same, oil filled shockers with the springs over them ...

Yep exactly right, if u change size of rims yours speedo will be out, and if u change gearboxes it can go out as well changing to a dif type one i mean). U can take it to places that change the speedo gears to calibrate it, but a little expensive ... But if u r like me and have an Apexi RSM, u needent worry at all, you can adjust wheel size on it to make the speedo spot on .. its even got where u can enter in how much tread is left so its dead dead on ... pretty cool huh ... For the price of gettin speedo re-calibrated, u may as well get a RSM ...

Yer ive done lots of lighting mods to m dash and i know how it can be tempramental, the circuit board on the back is a thin flexible plastic like crap, so when u put the plugs back in u have 2 hame sure the circuit board terminals for the plugs are lined up with them. I attached a pic of tha back of the dash, u can see 3 seperate plug sockets, these terminals can move sightly to the left and right, so u have to make sure that when u put the plugs into these sokets that te terminals are inline .... Hey also i just remembered something .... When my battery in the boot exploded in my face a while back and i thougt i might have fried the hicas computer, the first ting i done after installing a new battery was to run the hicas diag on it.... I tried for ages to get it into diag mode but it just wouldnt work .... anyways what it was is that the instructions to get it into diag made it sound like u had to turn it L,R,L,R,L,R,L,R,L,R (left 5 times & rigt 5 times) all u have to do realy is jerk it 5 times, from center QUICKLY jerk it left right left right left and put it back to center, if u dont finish it by puting it back to te center it wont work (im not 100% sure but i think the hicas light will do something to tell u tat u have done it right) ten just rev back 5mtrs and it should start flashin. If u manage 2 get it workin and it flashes the code 22 or 23 (one of the two, carnt remember) anyways just move the steering wheel a bit more to try center it a bit better and that error code will stop. Have u checked to make sure your hicas computer is plugged in properly ? Might as well unplug it totaly and then plug it back up .... There are lots of things i can think of to do to find out what is dead of fixable ... Where abouts are you from Doc ?

Another pic sowing the boot spoiler and rims

Here is a pic of the rear boot spoiler thats for sale

Here is a pic of what the rims look like

Thanks for that, it had me worried a bit ...