Mick

im glad you sorted it out mate, i just sorted mine out as well accidently, it was cos my oil was so old, who knew that could make an engine hesitate and pop pop pop when taking off lol, i do need to get my air fuel ratio adjusted tho, but i have the old safc and i dont wana spend any money upgrading so i gota find someone that can tune a safc

i know its not important at all but i was curious, does anyone else have this rubber covered rear wiper on there r33? i still carnt work out how to remove the blade on it but it looks like you wouldnt be able to get a blade on and put the rubber sleeve back on anyways. But i really wana know if others have the same as mine or if maybe this isnt the original one for it. I will get a new aftermarket one

also im going to remove the pan and replace the gasket and clean the metal filter in it, and i was wondering if i have to use and kind of gasket goo or any other kind of crap when installing the transmission pan gasket, i wouldnt think so but i thought i better ask just in case

hey i done my engine oil the other day and i wana do the automatic transmission oil now but im not sure what size the crush washer is for the drain plug, its an re4r01a from an r33 gtst, i thought it was the same one that is used for the engine oil drain plug but after seeing that the bolt head for the transmission drain plug is much larger than the engine oil one i wonder if maybe the crush washer is a bigger one, so does anyone know if they are the same or different?

i do similar with my spark plugs, i dont use the platinums anymore, i use ngk vgroove coppers and change them very often

thats a pretty good way of doung things, cheaper oil and change more often, i like it

yeah im going to have to do that cos i imagine the original one from nissan would be crazy expensive

hey there is a member here looking for the 2 little adjusters on the back on an r32 headlight, if anyone here has a broken headlight that isnt any good please let him know. Either msg me or reply here or you can find his post in the general maintenance section in the forum

do you have a broken headlight that isnt good to sell, there is a member looking for the 2 adjusters on the back of one

google the superglue and baking soda and use that to repair it, trust me it will work good and if it ever cracks in another place just do the same again, you will be amazed at how well it works, i saw a clip of a guy repairing his plastic radiator using it, an another guy who filled a big hole with it and them drilled trough it and then run a tap into it and then put a bolt in it, i dont know if plastic powder would be better or baking soda, but research it a little. At least it will work until you can track down some new adjusters one day

and i should also mention that when i say i gave it a bit of a punch i dont mean i broke the speed limit or anything, i just more got it from 0 to 110 quickly a few times. i would not recommend speeding especially when your taking the car for a drive cos the lifters are very loud, cos if they are stuffed it could cause a major engine failure i would assume.

yes thankyou thats exactly what i done, i used the nulon engine oil flush and ran it for 20mims them dumped the oil and put a new filter on it and put some cheap 10w40 semi synthetic in it cos i will dump it in a week or so and then put another new filter and some good full synthetic in it and then it will be good then. When i put the oil in and started the car i wasnt too happy cos it was still ticking/hammering pretty loud, i drove my misses into town to work and back and it was still loud, so i decided to go for a better drive and give it a bit of a punch and by the time i got back the noise had gone and sounds luke a brand new bloody car!! I recommend anyone who has the dredded lifter ticking/hammering to do this, it worked for me and i couldnt be happier and i know the engine is much much happier as well

yeah i did the last oil change as well and the funnel i use has a filter mesh in it so dont know what it could be. They do look like gravel or meteorites lol, i could sell them as small iron meteors haha The oil was so old it was making the lifters tick so bad i thought the car was on its last legs, but i use nulon engine oil flush and ran it for 20mins and dumped it straight away, then i put a new oil filter and cheap 10w40 semi synthetic in it, i used cheap stuff cos i wana run it for a week and then dump it and put some good stuff in it just to chean it better so i know its all good

i just dumped my oil in my r33 gtst and in the bottom of the oil drain pan i was using i found 2 small metal pieces that do stick to a magnet, they dont really look like anything, but i will show you a pic and see if anyone knows what they may be from, i made sure the pan was clean before i dumped the oil in it so its definatly from inside my engine

hey i carnt work out how to remove the blade and i have googled and searched everywhere but i carnt see anyone that has the same wiper arm as mine, it has a rubber cover over it woth black plastic clips at each wnd and doesnt look like its removable

it will work, im sure other people here know about the superglue and baking soda trick, if you dont know about it just youtube it, you will be amazed

i would repair the crack with superglue and baking soda or plastic powder, you start by putting some powder in the crack and then applying a little superglue onto the powder, it will be absorbed into the powder, then ann more powder to fill the crack and a bit more superglue, it dries fast and is stronger than just superglue on its own

ok i checked but it doesnt look like its a part that they sell, they have all the other parts for the headlights but not the adjusters sorry

well i need to get oil today so i guess i will just go with 10w40

its strange cos you disconnected the battery from the boot i assume so it doesnt have alternator wires going to it either, make sure your terminals are tight and make sure to check the earth from both ends, then i would try run a self diagnostics from the consult port by bridging the pins and see if any error codes flash up, only do that if you know what pins to bridge and how to do it properly, if you dont know just ask

hey i have a problem where i turn the key and i just get a tick, and sometimes that will happen for 5 or 6 times and then it will start, im so sick of it, tick tick tick tick tick vroom... i checked all the alarm relays and car relays and i changed over starter motors and it still does it, but after it finally works i can turn it off and it will turn back on straight away first shot, so i think it might be the actual switch at the back of the barrel where the plug actually plugs into, there is a screw and you remove it and the switch comes out, so has anyone had a problem like this before and was it this switch to blame?

i have similar problem, i used to only get it if i used a 91 octane fuel but not it even happens on 95, it barely happens on 98, i know that it got bad where it was doing it even on 98 until i changed the plugs and it was better but not fixed totally, the ceramics on the plugs look overheated and had brown heat marks on them, im talking about the caramic base not the tip

sorry i tried to cut and paste but its a little messed up but its all there, i hope it helps you, and just so you know you have to do this test while the car is outside, i tried to do it in my shed and i kept getting a sunload sensor error and it was cos the sensor on the dash wasnt detecting any sun lol

The climate control has a diagnostic mode. Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on. SENSOR CHECK Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen. If normal, a "20" is displayed. If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows: 20 - all is normal 21 - outside air sensor 22 - Inside air sensor 23 - Water temperature sensor 24 - Intake temperature sensor 25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)best to test outside for this 26 - PBR 27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty. MODE DOOR POSITION CHECK (This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display. If normal, a "30" is displayed. If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows: 30: Normal 31: VENT 32: B/L (Bi level) 34: FOOT 35: DEFROST/FOOT 36: DEFROST ACTUATOR OPERATION CHECK By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex SENSOR RECOGNITION CHECK Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty. Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32): 5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed. Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem! CALIBRATION If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature. While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33).

did you run the self diagnostics on it by holding down the right buttons at the same time or whatever it is to get into it, it tests alot of things