Mick

hey i have a stock r33 gtst series2 turbo and i have a turbosmart dual stage boost controller and i want to get rid of the boost conrtoller and put a 0.8bar/12psi actuator on the turbo instead, does anyone have one for sale or for some reason wana swap for a stock actuator and boost controller?

damn thats exactly what i need

hey do you still have the actuator for rb, are they aftermarket ones and what psi or bar is it? i want one that is 12psi or 0.8bar to fit my r33 gtst series2

sorry i know this is sold but i just have a question, isnt 1bar too much for a stock r33 gtst series2? i thought the max should be 0.8bar

yeah thanks for the advice, that is very good advice. Yeah i will plumb back the bov if i can get the adapter plate or i will have to put the stick one back on and as for the dual stage boost controller im a lil bummed out about having to remove that, the dumb ass only knew to look at that cos its bright blue and looks obviously aftermarket, i seen that i can put the stock one on and ground the wire to keep it in high boost but thats only 7psi and i want the whole 12 that it can take safely, so i was thinking about going a 12psi actuator that can simply replace the stock one and then i can paint it black and put a nissan sticker on it just in case so it doesnt stand out. Does anyone have one for sale or know where i can get one cheap, and are they pretty much generic fit or do i need one specific for the stock r33 turbo?

hey i just got pulled over again and this time they must have heard my bov so they called a traffic cop to assist cos he was supposed to know whats, i played the "i dont know anything card" but when he said my boost controller was a bov as well as a boost controller i told him he didnt know sh1t so after he threatened to get his pen and paper out and start to write down everything wrong with it shut up, anyways i dont wana remove the bov cos i would have to weld up the hole in the fmic piping so i want turn it to a plumb back but i need the plumb back adaptor for a turbosmart type3 ss, if anyone has one please let me know or if anyone has any ideas how to make it plumb back another way that would be good, i got the stock parts but it would be a pain in the ass to do the bov

what gauge wire would you use, its only a short distance from the alternator to the fuse/relay box

Hey i want to upgrade the alternator wires to thicker gauge wire and i was wondering what other people have done with there wiring, the reason i ask is that the white power wire from the alternator to the fuse box has a big crimped and soldered terminal on the fusebox side which has a very thick black starter motor wire and the white alternator wire together in that terminal and it is angled to fit perfectly so im not sure how to remove the white wire and add a nice new 8 or 4 gauge alternator wire to it, im also not sure what gauge to use cos i read that 8 will to upto 100amp but i thought of using 4 gauge cos i got a few 4 gauge terminals and wire laying around but im worried that its too big so what ate your thoughts on what gauge wire to use and on how to connect it to the fusebox side? i will include a photo of the terminal im talking about and yes i will also do the earth wire as well thats an easy job

thanks everyone for your info, yeah when i put the pads in years ago i cleaned the shims and coated them with the proper stuff exactly like im supposed to, as i said its been perfect for years and it just started happening and im still not sure if its coming from the pads or the handbrake shoes or even the bearings, i know i need to jack the rear up and give the wheels a turn to find out where its coming from exactly, but now that i have some hints from you guys it will make it much easier when i work oht whats making it squeal, oh and it starts for a second or two at highway speeds and almost constantly at low speeds

Hey my car has just started getting a squeal from the rear brakes, the pads have been on there for years but i dont drive it much so when i looked there is lots of meat left on the pads, like alot and the rears dont have wear indicators on them like the front pads do so couldnt be wear indicator noise anyways, now im thinking it might be from the handbrake shoes on the inside of the disc, so my question is this common or even possible? i had a read up and i read that some people were getting squealing from there rear pads and they had to file the edges of the pads but its weird cos they have been good for years and have obviously bedded in so what are your thoughts on this?

do you have the 90a alternator?

ok so does anyone know if it could be a diode or definatly not?

oh and make sure your battery light comes on in the dash when its not working cos an autoelec told me that if that light is on it means the wiring isnt the problem

i can let you know how i opened my original one up when i seen the diodes that time but you will need a bit of electrical knowledge to be able to remove and solder in new ones, i think thats what i might end up doing with this one even tho i can return it cos they dont have another 90amp one there and if i repair this one i brought at least i know the diodes will be brand new, i think i took some photos when i opened it up if you want me to post them, it shows where the diodes are

thankyou that sounds right about the diode, i had my original one apart a while ago to try fix and clean it and yeah i seen 4 big diodes in there so this one i got would have the diodes in it like my original one, im not sure if i should return it or open it up and put a new diode in cos im very good with electronics, would be an east fix for me to replace it and i would replace all 4 of them, i didnt make a note of the part number on the diodes when i had it apart but i assume they would have a part number on them and easily sourced, i also should try replace the 2 metal bushes i think they call them, the ones that are curved on the ends that are spring loaded and are located at the bottom of the rotor or stator or whatever the middle core is called again lol

Hey my alternator was a standard 80amp for my r33 gtst s2 and it just wasnt charging the battery properly so i brought a second hand 90amp one from a r33 gtst s1 and it fit in ok and had the same size pulley so all good there, but i noticed a problem with it, on a cold start it will sit on about 10.5v and stay there while idling until i give it a rev and then it starts to work and goes to 13.8v, now im getting this reading from the Apexi RSM which is connected to the ECU and it must be what the car is seeing cos even the battery light comes on when it is idling and sitting on 10.5v but goes away after i rev it, but the funny thing is that when i put a multimeter on the battery or the relay box near the alternator it shows me a different reading of upto 1v difference. So does anyone know why there is upto a 1v difference from the battety to the ecu and why does the alternator only work after it gets a rev, i read something about an exciter wire but im not sure if thats for this altetnator

Hey i thought here would be the best place to ask this, anyways i was wondering if anyone has any pics or tips on upgrading the alternators wiring, i put a 90amp alternator in my r33 gtst and i wanted to run new 8 gauge wire for the earth and positive, now the earth is easy but with the positive i was wondering what you guys did for attaching the other end of the positive to the positive post on that fuse/relay box cos the standard wire already goes there but is joined with the starter motor wire into the terminal which is crimped and soldered, i will have to go buy some 8 gauge wire and terminals cos i only have 4 gauge stuff laying around and its probably overkill since the alternator is so close to the relay box

i got one today, its a 90amp and i think its from a series1 gtst, has the same pulley diameter and the battery post is 8mm, but that is with the elbow on it, i wanted to remove the elbow but found out that it has a 6mm post if i remove the elbow so i need to leave it on there

Im after a 90amp alternator to put on my r33 GTST, does anyone in western suburbs victoria have one for sale that i can come pick up

i know that he can have that divider pipe removed and have a bigger one welded on or just have a divider wall welded onto it but that will be a bit if a hassle for him cos they will need the turbo off so that they can measure it to make sure the divider is the right height and in the right position like in this photo

hey i got another guy interested in this screamer pipe but he thinks his turbo had been high flowed and i told him that the small pipe that sits in the rear turbo wheel to separate the wastegate from the turbo might be too small if they have machined out and put a bigger rear wheel in his turbo, so do all high flow packages include doing a bigger rear wheel?

im still chasing a 90a alternator for my r33 gtst

anyone interested?

if it is the afm you may not see an obvious fault in the circuit board cos it could just be a dry solder joint so just hit each pad with the iron to make sure the pad is good, but i still think you should try injector cleaner cos it fixed my similar problem

it could be surging due to clogged injectors, run a $10 bottle of injector cleaner through your tank, fixed mine with similar problem and even if its not the problem at least you will have clean injectors