browny

So who entered the roundabout first? The rule is pretty simple. You must give way to all vehicles aready on the roundabout. It doesn't matter which direction you or they are coming from. No, you are on the roundabout, you have right of way. Not neccesarily.

I'm after a neutral switch to suit the above box. Please PM if you can help. Cheers, Tim

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Acrylic = easier and cheaper to work with but requires more post spray finishing, not as durable and not as good looking 2k = more expensive, more difficult to work with, poisonous IMO modern cars should be sprayed in 2k. 2k means you need supplied air breathing apparatus because its toxic and i'm pretty sure the gun's are set up differently. Renting a booth is a good idea but at the end of it all you are going to need to work out whether the money you save by going DIY is worth the effort.

What exactly do you refer to when you say "I got all the gear"? 2k or acrylic? Are you a confident spray painter? If you don't know what you are doing you could quite easily end up with something that looks quite awful.

My comments above are generic for trearting any rust. So by "paint" I really mean "surface coating", which you would obviously match to the area you are repairing.

This is a good overview of how rust converters work -> http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoat...t-converter.htm I've found the K+H stuff from most auto stores is quite good (tannic acid based). The best method i've found is to remove as much rust as possible using mechanical means. I like to use a wire wheel on an angle grinder, or you can hand sand but this takes longer. I'm not a big fan of sanding/flap wheels on grinders because they take metal off too easily. Then hit with the rust converter, then paint.

I can see where your both coming from but I tend to think the more classic example is what geno8r is describing. As far as i'm concerned a sleeper isn't just something that looks stock, but rather it's something that looks slow. I would find it difficult to classify a dead stock looking gtr as a sleeper, no matter how much power it actually has. Another sleeper volvo: http://cust.idl.com.au/athol/default.html

No argument from me. I want a 4.3-4.4 ratio but there just doesn't seem to be anything thats readily available to suit the BW diff.

4.11 is the shortest ratio i've found to be readily obtainable in Borg Warner, but I'd be really interested in anything people can suggest around the 4.3-4.4 mark.

doh, SK beat me to it

Thats the lower half of a std RB20 inlet manifold. I think the last two runners are moved inwards to allow clearance for the clutch cylinder (someone with a skyline will be able to confirm or deny this).

Do these help?

cmon, someone must have a busted gearbox they can grab one from!!!

25 - shown in my manual as unused Al the others are as you have indicated. Maybe whoever installed the RSM wired it incorrectly.

From memory 7 is the tacho output pulse. I'll have to look the others up.

I know. There are several differences between that file and what is indicated in my service manual. I have yet to find a single difference between my literature and my wiring loom so my guess is that the file above has a couple of small errors. Since the GTR pinout has exactly that definition for pin 6 I think it might be a simple error of mixing up gtr and gtst info. Otherwise Nissan might have released several slightly different looms/ecu's just to complicate things.

My engine diagrams don't agree with this and 6 is listed as unused. The aux fan on my engine is controlled using a sensor plugged into the radiator and there doesn't appear to be any ecu control. Pin 6 for a gtr ecu is as you describe so maybe there is an error in the info you are reading this from? All these are for auto's.

I'm after a neutral switch from an R32 gtst manual gearbox. It's the sensor thats screwed into the drivers side just below the shifter. Cheers, Tim

I'm with Gojira Range = Max - Min Resolution = Minimum interval size I'd be interested to know however whether its the ecu or the AFM that limits the resolution.

ok looking at the RB25 diagram from Meggalas web site: 17 = still a mystery 19 = as before 25 = as before 33 = lamp only. one side goes to +12V and earthed through the ecu to switch it on. 44 = No indication this is specific to auto or manual. Both have neutral so might be used for both. 53 = as before 56 = something for the auto trans 57 = as before 104 = as before The one I would try fixing first is 57. I've heard people say that no signal triggers one of the limp modes. I'm not familiar with the RB25 ecu but the R32 ecu's have a led on the back that flashes out the error codes from the diagnostic mode. This output is the same as that from pin 32 which might be connected to a dash lamp depending on how thorough the wiring job was.

I'm not completely sure you will need all of these...these are my guesses based on RB20 wiring... consult wires used for diagnostics, shouldnt affect how the engine runs 17 - Injection pulse (Ti monitor) signal Not familiar with this signal 19 - Power steering oil pressure SW signal Not sure exactly how the ecu uses this. Probably an idle adjustment. 25 - Boost control solenoid sig Not familiar with this one. 33 - Exhaust temp warning lamp AFAIK only a lamp. Should just be a mirror of the lamp on the back of the ecu. 44 - Neutral SW I think this can affect idle. 53 - Vehicle speed sensor Many people report no problems if this is disconnected to remove the speed cut. It is possible tho that this can affect idle. 56 - Throttle opening output signal TPS signal. Pretty sure this is an important one. Used for mixture adjustment. 57 - Exhaust temperature sensor signal I think the RB25's go into limp mode if there is no signal but not actually used an engine control signal. 104 - Fuel pump terminal power control output signal you only need this if the std hi/lo speed operation of the fuel pump is retained. If you are using an aftermarket pump and its wired corectly theres no need for this one. It's pretty easy to remove terminals from any connector as soon as you figure out how they are locked in. Most factory terminals are locked in with a tab of some sort. A lot of the Nissan stuff uses two tabs so if the terminal doesnt come out really easy you are probably missing something.

Good question. You will be lucky to find anything easily. Best bet is to find an auto electrician or someone seriously into auto wiring (maybe an ECU installer?) who really wants to help and will spend the time tracking down the manufacturer of the connectors. Even if you do manage to find someone who can supply the terminals you will probably find they are sold in lots of 100, or 1000.... The terminals are also crimped, and they will most likely require a specific tool to suit the exact dimensions of the terminal. I've seen specialised crimping tools for this sort of thing in the range of $500-1000. You might be able to get an acceptable but not perfect result by using a cheaper $50-100 tool if you are very lucky. Don't solder terminals. Most terminals actually crimp in two places (the wire plus the insulation). The crimp onto the insulation means the actual wire doesnt support any mechanical load so the wiring can flex a lot without breaking. You can't get this with a soldered joint and they break very easily. So the way I see it you have two real options: 1. Buy a new wiring loom that isnt missing anything (what are you missing BTW?) 2. Get part of a wiring loom (maybe a damaged one) and remove some terminals with 100mm+ of wiring still attached. Then you can connect this to whatever wire you are running to the ECU. Its is reasonaly easy to add mechanical strength to a join like this by using heatshrink, electrical tape etc and bundling the wiring up.

Approx 2 kohms idle Approx 10 kohms WOT I think. I can verify when i'm at home.

A few questions and answers from an email I sent to my local signatory.... Q: What about modifying factory ECU's via LS1 EDIT/chip changes or similar? A: Strictly speaking, LS1 Edit and similar cracking is deliberate tampering with emission control equipment. Likewise changing the chip. If the system was edited then put through a full ADR drive cycle test and passed, then it would be legal as long as the alteration software was not available to anyone that might service, tune or alter the vehicle. Q: What about programmable management that can be password protected so it can't be changed by the owner? A: Must be made tamper proof. This is probably technically okay provided that it is followed by a full ADR emission test... Q: Can't you just take an emissions test? A: The RTA can't work out whether their own test complies or not. The staff at the IM240 facilities say that IM240 is an acceptable alternative to the full ADR test. Emmanuel Kanna from the RTA's head office says no, and since I have that in writing, I have to say no also... Most engineers have not been told no by the RTA and hence accept IM240. Q: What if I have an auto and want to convert it to manual, do I need to use the manual ECU? A: Yes. And change any other emission control equipment to match the manual spec. Except that EGR cannot be removed. So a factory manual HZ Holden 253 auto has no EGR, the auto does but an auto engine converted to manual must retain it. Gets a bit iffy when you convert something like a 1UZ-FE to manual - there is no factory manual computer... Q: What about if I put the std management in for engineering and then replace it with something aftermarket? A: The engineer is only responsible for the vehicle in the condition that it was in at the time of inspection. Not my problem when it gets defected later and fined $25K. :-) Q: What if a copy of the ECU settings are attached to the engineering/emissions report? A: Does that prevent tampering? No? Then how does it accomplish the anti-tampering requirements of the ADRs? If combined with effective anti-tampering that made the computer effectively read-only, it might be relevant.