browny

From what I gather, the issue will be emissions compliance. The engine is not a factory delivered unit and its won't be running factory management/maps. Therefore it hasn't met any emissions standards, anywhere. The million dollar question is how do you prove emmissions compliance so that an engineer will be statisfied and sign the conversion off. I'll post up my engineers response. The idea of not disclosing everything to an engineer when having the car signed off seems rather ridiculous to me: * If the engine is the only part being certified, but you arn't telling the engineer everything then you are effectively paying the engineer to provide an engineering certificate that is void. I can think of better ways to spend my money. * If you slip things past the engineer you will probably be able to get the car through roadworthy as well. So why bother spending the money on an engineering cert? * If there are a number of things being certified its most cost effective to have everything done at once rather than coming back a second time after getting a defect or being turned down for a pink slip.

Disclaimer: I am just arguing here because i'm an engineer and I like to argue. What i'm actually saying might be completely incorrect. If I was a signatory I would argue thus... If the RB25 he is using is an auto he needs to use the auto ECU. If he wants to use a manual he needs to use a manual ECU. Otherwise he could prove the auto and manual maps are identical and use either. I would argue that it is not only the physical box that constitutes an ECU but also the factory maps. Therefore if you change the maps from factory, you are no longer emissions compliant until you prove otherwise. I don't know anything about modern commodores, is LS1 EDIT released, supported and endorsed by Holden? I will contact my local engineer to get another perspective.

The ECU is considered to be part of the engine, as is the exhaust, intake tract, fuel tank and any pollution devices. So the "standard" ECU is the one that comes with the engine from the factory. I agree but in reality it depends on the engineer and how they interpret the ADR's. I have heard the arguement that the adjustable nature of an aftermarket ECU means some engineers will never allow one to be passed because of the way they read the rules.

If he knows it's there he should be interested because the ECU impacts on emissions.

Talk to a signatory or the relevant inspector that passes this sort of thing. I have heard various theories about engineering ECU's but i'm not going to repeat any because it's all heresay and therefore may be misleading. In any case my recommendation is that you don't play swapsies to get through engineering. Personally I can't see why anyone would ever do this. If you are going to go to the effort and cost of having something engineered, you might as well get all the mods signed off then and there so its all above board and you minimise the risk of problems later on (eg insurance or defects). Otherwise my view is that you are leaving yourself open to be liable because the car you are driving is effectively not road legal.

My guess is that they reduce the base circle of the cam. Lift = Max Diameter - Base Circle

Is it pertinant to ask how much a RB20 follower can be depressed before it is moved away from the oil gallery and therefore becomes solid? If this distance is very small then wouldn't the ramps of the solid cam mean the valve would open earlier and close later (albeit a small amount), therefore giving a longer duration. So relating to lukevl's diagram the inlet cam might start to open at -250 and close at 50 giving a duration of 300 degrees. The hydraulic cam on the other hand might open at -225 and close at 25 giving a duration of 250 degrees. Would this matter? Obviously I don't really know what i'm talking about so I might be right off track.

The manual also has cold settings and from memory they are similar to the values you have been told.

Thanks for the explanation lukevl. So what you are saying is that hydraulic cams don't have the "lift ramp" you describe because the lifters are self adjusting for valve growth. So if you put in a solid cam the lifters will follow this extra ramp and open the valve early and close it late, which will result in a longer duration (and poor running). Correct? FYI, in my engine manual the warm clearances for a 32GTR are given as 0.51mm intake and 0.44mm exhaust (both +/- 0.03mm).

Two excerpts from a discussion on PF: The whole thread is here: http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/...&highlight=cryo

AFAIK: * All turbine wheels are ceramic * Some compressor wheels are metal (aluminium?), some are plastic. Someone else will be able to tell exactly where in the models this change occurred (S1->S2?)

Not sure if I agree with that. If everything is set up correcly I would think the only affect of overtightening the bolts would be some local distortion of the cap and head. Wouldnt it have to be massively overtightened for this to occur?

Might need to be careful with the legality of this. AFAIK you still need to retain some sort of mechanical door opening device, the argument being that in the event of an accident, emergency workers might not be able to enter the car if there are no door handles.

I saw one in the FS section for $600 just the other day.

Smaller valves, ports & different bore size. Anything is possible but I can't see that it would be worth doing.

Where in Sydney are you? Please PM me.

hmmm these parts sound familiar . FWIW they came from a 113,000km half cut.

I'm after the rubber boots and metal retainer ring surrounding the gearstick. They can be from any model skyline as long as it's roughly the same as that shown in the photo below: Please post your offers here if you can help. Best offer to date is $50 inc postage.

One thing I am interested in is where the piston crown will end up in the bore. I am currently trying to get hold of a stock RB20 rod and piston so I can measure them up and work this out. (Hint hint Bl4cK32 )

Im after the metal bracket and rubber boots surrounding the gearstick: Can you help?

Contact detail for Grant from Sixworks [email protected] Mobile 0409 572904

Also, considering supercharged skylines arn't exactly common, the workshop would pretty much need to do all R&D work as well. There is a big difference in labour between fitting bolt on parts and having stuff custom built for an uncommon application. Also, depending on what was included in the $12k it might not be that bad (think management & tuning, exhaust, IC, labour etc).

My understanding of how it all works.....this is not neccesarily completely correct Tacho's work by picking up voltage pulses. Some work off high voltages (eg 200V tachos designed to work from ign coils), others work off 12V and some work off both. OEM tacho's work off a variety of voltages. The RB20 ecu generates the tacho pulses by earthing pin #7 to ground. The std tacho works off a 5V square wave and there is some special electricketry in the tacho that provides 5V to pin 7 so this wave can be generated. Connecting pin 7 straight to the pulse input of a non standard tacho will in many cases do nothing because the tacho doesn't provide any voltage to the ecu pin and therfore it is effectively switching between 0V and 0V. A "pull up" resistor can be used to provide potential to pin 7. If you connect pin 7 to the tacho pulse input and then get a 10k ohm resistor and connect it between a 12V supply and pin 7, then the tacho will see 12V-0V input as pin 7 switches between open and ground. The 10k resistor will prevent too much current from flowing through the ecu and frying the tacho circuit. Cost ~$1. If this doesn't work you can get tacho boosters from Sixworks in Newcastle. There are two types depending on which tacho you have and cost approx $50 /$100. I'll post up the contact details when I get home.

Before making your mind up read these threads: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ht=supercharger http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=44169 http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...ghlight=rb30esc Look for warpspeed's posts, he has some opinions and (more importantly) experiences that are vastly different to those expressed above.

RE: the deposit If I was the seller I would not find it unreasonable if someone requested their deposit back after discovering the car was not as I had advertised (ie mechanical fault, signs of crash repairs or dodgy modifications) If I was the buyer in the above situation I would certainly argue my point that it should be refunded.