browny

I did a search in the fs section on here, SDU & PF for crank/rods. Prices were generally in the range of $500-700. I'm really interested to know if the 4AGZE pistons will work easily. The bore is fine (1mm OS gives 82mm) but what about gudgeon pin location? I need RB20 conrod length & piston crown height so I can work out where it would all sit in the block. I agree with Roys comment regarding supply & demand. As soon as there is a thread where someone starts explaining how an oem part can be used as a cheap upgrade the prices start to jump. RB25 turbos seem to be a lot more expensive now.

I came up with pretty much the same numbers, but then thought whats the least you could get away with: RB20 Block Bore & Hone block_________________ $140 ok Crank Grind ______________________$140 Might be able to get away without this Full balance, rods, crank_____________$100 ok, low? Balance and shot peen rods (set)_____$150 Leave out ACL bearing _____________________ $200 ok Head rebuild, hydraulic tappets_______ $250 Leave out Basic Port________________________$500 Leave out the porting - still need the chamber work ~$200??? Arias Pistons_____________________$1,600 4AGZE - still not convinced this works tho - $750 new (forged too) VRS Gasket kit ____________________$250 ok ARP Rod Bolts ____________________ $480 Necessary? Are RB26 rod bolts use once? When do you need upgraded bolts in rb26's? Head gasket - metal________________$300?? Bush rod ends suit smaller gudgeon pins$200??? dont really have any idea what this would cost Now you have to buy a set of GTR Rods _$350 ok, seen a little cheaper Also a GTR crank____________________$400 ok, seen a little cheaper gtr Water & Oil pumps________________$800 used rb26 $400 both Cams_____________________________$800 leave out, or GTR cams ~$300 Then there are things like timing belt, perhaps new idler bearings etc etc. say ~$500 in other spares and consumables So $3,500-$4,000

Can someone tell me the length of an RB20det conrod (centre to centre) and The pin to crown height of a std RB20 piston Cheers, Tim

What was the rough break-up of the $6,500-7,000

So tell us, what was the problem?

Could someone post up some guesstimates of what a 2.2 and 2.4 bottom end build would cost?

WazR32GTSt The reason it wont lean out is because the air passing through the AAC valve is still metered by the AFM. Thus the ECU injects the amount of fuel that corresponds to the AFM reading and so the A:F ratio should stay the same. If you were to pull a vacuum hose off so the engine was sucking unmetered air it would get lean.

From http://www.tomei-p.co.jp Also.... http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...36_rb20det.html

No its not that simple. Its all about ADR's. The car will generally need to conform to the newest ADR's that apply to either of the engine or car. It is easy to put a newer engine into an old car because as long as you include all emmissions gear (eg pollution control devices, std ECU, cat etc) then can argue that the emmisions will be the same as the ADR that the engine complies with. If you put an old engine in a new car you need to be able to prove the emissions meet the (most probably) newer ADR's that the car was designed to meet. I have heard various things about how easy/expensive this can be but i've never needed to explore it any further. You can't just swap any red motor around, even though they were from the same series. This is because they bought in an emissions ADR in 73 (I think). The same rules apply as above for these swaps. eg *pre-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars *pre-ADR engines can be used in any post-ADR car if fitted with all the ADR complient emmissions gear from the later series motor *Post-ADR engines can be used in post-ADR cars *Post-ADR engines can be used in pre-ADR cars if fitted if the ADR emissions gear is retained This system works off engine numbers and is why you will find people with the older Holdens looking for "pre emmissions" blocks so they can legally run aftermarket carbs etc.

I don't have a VL.

sounds like a load of bs to me.

ok, so what would you do if changing to an RB25 box also meant you had to cut the trans tunnel out an weld in something larger......

Here is a quote from the carpoint article I posted before:

so INASNT... Were you actually speeding?

Some may find this interesting... http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/news/blanks...ory.asp?ID=4956

yes. Basically everything has to be concentric.

gatty Using different offsets will change your wheel track. Your states registration authority will most likely have some regulations on wheel track changes (ie in NSW you are allowed a max change of +25mm overall). The easiest way to avoid problems is to have the wheel made with the same offset as the std wheels. If they are a reputable wheel supplier should do this (if not already part of their range). An auto engineer I was talking to said wheels are the No.1 problem he finds on cars, and most of the time the owner isn't even aware of the problem. It's easy to get wrong, but it's also easy to get right.

I've changed a few clutches (not on a skyline tho). 10/10 PITA rating is about right. The actual clutch changing part isnt the hard bit - its getting at the bellhousing bolts and getting the input shaft back into the clutch plate (which involves manouvering the gearbox).

Offset refers to the where the mounting surface is in relation to the centreline of the wheel.

After some RB20 Coil packs with P/N 22433 60U01. I need 2 but would be interested in a complete set of 6 at the right price. I'm in Newcastle. If anyone is local and has some at a decent price I will come and get ASAP. Please PM or email [email protected] Cheers, Tim

AFAIK the computer diagnostics only pick up short/open circuits or out of range signals. When the ECU detects an error in any of the systems it checks it enters a "safe" mode where the engine is only allowed to run with very conservative settings (ie rich, retarded timing, rev limited). The actual settings vary depending on the failure detected. So the most obvious thing to look for is something that has been accidentaly left unplugged, which you have probably already done. Next you need to start investigating individual components and their wiring. It could be something as simple as an earth that has been left off or a wire in the loom that has been broken somehow. It also could be something that has failed. Try playing swapsies with known good parts. A multimeter and an engine manual are your friend.

Also, I find the diagnostic mode isn't that useful. It's good for determining whether you have left plugs off or there are short/open circuits but otherwise it doesn't tell you much.

On the R32's there is a diagnostic connector. This is a small brown plug located at the fuse box. To enter the diagnostic mode you need to short two of the terminals for two seconds. This then puts the computer into check mode and it flashes the results on the ECU led and the engine check light (these are on the same circuit). I don't know if R33 is different.

AFAIK a normally operating O2 sensor will rapidly flick between 0-1V.

Some guesses......(based on R32) *you are measuring the voltage between the wrong two terminals. The supply voltage to ground measurement should be 5V. The signal to ground measurement should vary ~0.5V-4V. *If not the above then are you sure the TPS's are wired in the same way. Because it is a potentiometer if you swap the + & - wiring it will read in reverse. *Are you sure the TB's actually open with the same rotation eg RB30 and RB20 TB's open in different ways - one opens clockwise and the other opens anticlockwise. The TPS's are therefore designed to rotate in opposite ways and so mixing and matching can mean the output can get reversed. As a check, get a multimeter and measure the TPS resistance (signal to gound) at idle position and at WOT position (both with the plug disconnected). What readings do you get for both TPS's?