browny

What engine do you have? RB25DET? (This is the forced induction forum) The CAS is from an RB25DE right? Are the part no.s the same on each CAS?

The RB20 gearbox isnt anything like 100kg. Probably more like 40kg....I can lift one no probs and i'm no muscle man.

FYI I have weighed a Holden 6cyl engine. With gearbox, carbs , starter etc it was about the 250kg mark. I reckon an RB25 wouldn't be too different.

sorry my formula was incorrect due to a typo - I = 1/2 x m x r^2 The calcs used the correct formula Also, shouldnt that be I = 1/2 x m x (A^2 - B^2) ?

Hi guys, I was reading the discussion of rotational inertia of components with interest and whilst the concept of having lighter rotating components is valid - I was wanting to get an idea of the relative merits of the different ideas so I came up with the following calcs: For a cylinder the rotational inertia is, I = m x r^2 <- note the r^2 term so this has a large dependance upon the location of the mass within the oblect. So if we take assume a flywheel is a uniform circular disc of diameter 300mm (maybe inaccurate diameter? - I can revise): "standard" 10kg - rotational inertia is 0.113 kg.m2 "lightened" 5kg - rotational inertia is 0.056 kg.m2 Reduction 0.057 kg.m2 Now obviously this isnt going to be completely accurate because flywheels arnt a uniform disc and the lightened flywheels often have more material removed from the outer edge because of the r^2 term but the whole idea of this analysis is to give a "feel" for the relative effect rather than definitive numbers. Now we can model a tailshaft as a tube with OD 100mm and wall thickness 2mm (once again maybe not accurate dimensions but hey I can revise if someone tells me the something more correct): "standard" 14kg - rotational inertia is 0.0013 kg.m2 "light" 8kg - rotational inertia is 0.0008 kg.m2 Reduction 0.0005 kg.m2 So now what if as an guesstimate, the flywheel represents say 15% of the total rotational inertia of the drivetrain. The change by adding a light flywheel is therefore around an 8% reduction. The change by adding a light tailshaft is an 0.08% reduction, an effect of 100 times less. Therefore the effect of a lightened tailshaft seems to be not much compared with say a lightened flywheel. Comments please.

I have the same clamps as 51jay These pics show why I don't like them much. As you tighten them up they tend to form a D shape The "bunching" I was referring to and the lack of contact around the bolt area I have a few 86-91mm that I want to get rid of.

Steve, Do your clamps have a small "fillet" type piece that fills in the break where the tensioning bolt is? I have seen some with and some without.

I'll take some pics too and post em up.

Blackwoods sell them in SS and mild steel (coated) Enzed sell them in mild. Personally I dont like the clamps I have got from above stores. First off, they have a very small tolerance on size so you have to be accurate when buying. Not a huge problem but it means you have to bring in a sample of whatever you are planning on clamping to be sure you get it right. I also dont like the way in which they clamp up. They tend to go egg shaped and bunch the hose up a bit when you do them up and it doesnt look to me like a nice solid, airtight connection. They are also expensive although if you can get Blackwoods trade/account rates they are about half of regular retail prices. ie $10 ea vs $20 ea. I would like to give the clamps shown at GCG's web site a go. They are slightly different in their design and I think they may work better.

But are exotic fuels like methanol really relevent to this discussion.... My opinion is that truck coolers dont really add up from a value for money perspective once you add in all the labour involved with making decent end tanks and fitting it into the car.

Toothed belts Advantages * Efficiency is high * Lower belt tension is required (less bearing load) * Efficiency does not depreciate significantly over life * No slip (important if the items need to be synchronised) Disadvantages * Cost * Noise * Transmission of shock loading Vee Belts can have comparable efficiency. The problem is that this efficiency can be substantially decreased with improper installation and maintenance is not correct. Most of these are industrial considerations.

yes

Get a magnet. If it sticks don't polish it.

Yes. You are best to check with an engineer. You need to comply with the emission ADR's for the newer of the engine or the car. This is relatively easy to do if you are putting a modern engine into an old car (ie 20+ yrs old) because all you really need to do is stick with the std stuff that came with the engine (eg cat, management, carbon cannister etc).

MotoX, umm I think they are talking about spraying it onto the intercooler. Not into it. DJ984, CO2 isnt flammable, its used in fire extinguishers remember...

Can someone post up the mounting hole dimensions for GTR seats. eg x mm side to side y mm front to back

JimX - Out of interest, what were the final results you got from the cam gear install?

Roy, The O2 sensors use an M18 thread. The reference to 3/8BSP was to illustrate what larger size taps cost. There are a few SS places up here but from what i've seen of them they pretty much handle tube/pipe and dont have much in the way of fittings. Cant hurt to ask tho.... I will look into marine and plumbing stores as well.

The last 3/8" BSP tap (~16mm) I bought was $30. I can't see it being worthwhile to make it myself either cost or time wise.

How much is an M18 tap going to cost? At least $20 but I think more like $30-40. No SS supplier is going to sell me a 50mm length of SS pipe so then there is the effort of finding an offcut of the right size stainless pipe(if it exists) and making the thing. Too much effort. A SS nut should only cost $10 by my catalogue. I cant imagine some sort of proper boss will cost more than $30. Its just finding one in stock thats the problem.

I cant find anyone that has an 18mm nut in stock either.

And I thought this would be easy. I'm simply after a SS O2 sensor boss. So far everyone i've called has said they can't get them. One guy even went as far as saying using SS would make it difficult to remove the O2 sensor at a later date (?). Does anyone know where I can get such a thing from?

The Nissan throttle sensor which is the black box connected to the throttle shaft is actually a combination of 3 sensors: Throttle position sensor (manual and auto) Idle switch (manual and auto) Full throttle switch (auto only) My engine manual indicates that the idle switch is used by the ecu to control injectors, timing and idle speed. The TPS is used for injector control. The manual wiring harness does not include the wiring for the full throttle switch and after cracking the throttle sensor box open this switch had been omitted. For those who care, I found that an RB30 throttle switch rotates in the opposite direction and has an idle switch and TPS with very similar resistances to the RB20. The only external difference is that the idle switch has a different plug. The TPS plug is the same.

AFAIK the ECU still uses the throttle closed switch with a manual trans. My understanding (may not be correct) is that this switch tells the ecu that the engine should be idling. The WOT switch is for autos and the manual Nissan TPS/Idle switch doesnt contain the parts for this switch. Do you have any idle problems?

Third party property is a must. I drove for a year without it and looking back I cant believe I was so stupid. With my car it was $350+ for property. Comprehensive was $1,700 odd on a $5,000 car and so I didn't bother. My situation is a little different from most tho as I have a highly modified classic car.