browny

B-Man Did the Bosch TPS you used also have an idle switch like the Nissan one does? The Nissan unit contains the TPS and there is also a throttle closed switch and a WOT switch (auto), hence why there are two plugs.

I'm not sure I understand. If you mean move the TPS to the other side of the TB, then this would be a major drama because of the mountings for the accelerator cable assembly.

I have a bit of a problem my throttle body and TPS. Engine is RB20 with custom plenum. The plenum was made to take an XF TB and I want to use the RB20 TPS to keep the electrics simple. The problem I have is that the XF TB opens in the opposite way to the RB20 TB, so the RB20 TPS rotates the wrong way. See pic below: My ideas are to either a. Find a TB which has the same mounting pattern as the XF but opens in the right way b. Find a TPS which turns in the opposite direction and works with the RB20 ECU Can anyone suggest which TB or TPS might be suitable? Any other suggestions?

Sydneykid, have you ever tested a stock engine on an engine dyno to double check Mr Nissans claimed figures?

So all your really saying is that 25% is a good guess for losses.......

I thought they were all about 80mm. I think maybe that some of the terms used to describe the characteristics are often misused and interchanged which causes confusion. My understanding is that: Resolution is the minimum measurable interval Range is the difference between minimum and maximum readings. So the Z32 AFM can measure a greater range of airflows and give a useful output. The resolution on the other hand will be determined by the electronic trickery in the AFM. The ECU may even limit the resolution depending on how sensitive it is and how it interprets the input signal.

From Warspeed: ...and... The crux is that the Nissan AFM's give a reading that is independant of temp and pressure and from a flow measuring perspective it shouldnt really matter where it goes. Consider tho that the AFM is plastic and so you may want to be careful about putting hot pressurised air through it.

I have come across this as well. The "RB25" turbo I have has about 2mm larger banjo bolts than the RB20 turbo, I'm not 100% on what the sizes were but I think it was 18mm vs 16mm. The oil feed line was the same on both (12mm?)

Did you read why I suggested they may not be great for safety on the roads? The view by the RTA is that a roll cage is designed to protect the occupants in the event of a roll-over (rare). Because of all the bars and crap that you get with a roll cage it means there is more stuff that you can bust yourself up on in a collision type accident which is vastly more common. Hence in the majority of cases a cage presents more of a safety risk. Racing is a different situation as there is much greater chance of a roll-over.

What do you get in the way of a cage for $500?

Basically my thoughts are that for a road only car a cage is a bit of a wank, here's my 2c: Safety benefits are questionable. The RTA doesnt like cages because they pose a striking hazard in the event of a collision type accident which is way more likely than a roll over. Sounds reasonable to me. Its an expensive way to chase better handling and a functional cage may require some aspects of the car are compromised (eg headlining, rear seat). Compromising the design of the cage to retain car functionality sort of negates the argument that you need a cage in the first place. Also RTA rules can make it difficult to install a proper cage (ie cant have side bars across doors and driver vision/movement not to be impaired). So the only real reason I can see for the putting a cage in a road car is because you have lots of money and want to look like an uber cool race car driver. Of course now someone will come on here and say they got an awesome cage for $10 that retains full functionality of everything in the car, increases stiffness by 1000% and its 100% legal

They can be road legal if done properly and it depends on the rules in your particular state. By far the best option is to speak with your local registration authority who should put you onto an engineering signatory. The signatory should know all the ins and outs. In a nutshell in NSW there are rules for head clearance, visibility and access and all bars above shoulder height must be padded. If you are planning on racing the car, you may also want to check with the relevant authorities to determine what they require because AFAIK a cage that is road legal is not necessarily approved by say CAMS. My personal opinion (please note this is an OPINION only) for road going cars is that cages are unnecessary but racing is another matter.

Clarke Rubber do indeed have lots of std ring type electrical grommets. As you can obviously see, this particular grommet is however nothing like a normal electrical grommet. To me it looks like something that is purpose made for auto wiring. So maybe I should have been clearer. Does anyone have a stuffed wiring loom that they can remove the grommet from and sell it to me?

Has anyone got a spare one of these or can suggest where I might find something similar. It's off an R32 GTST ECU loom: Please PM me if you can help.

Also if you don't want to get the big daddy 044 pump, there are some smaller Bosch pumps such as the 984 which is around the $290 mark.

For braided lines budget at $100-120 a hose using Earls. Adaptors $15ea Straight ends $20ea Hose $40/m 90 deg adaptors $50ea The Earls stuff is easy to make yourself. Speedflow is another alternative, which I think it is considerably cheaper. I haven't used it and i'm unsure of the quality. I know there are people on here that have used them so they will be able to tell you more.

Depending on where you buy it, you can get a Malpassi for $160-200 from most performance shops.

I bought some diagrams from a guy who does wiring looms and i've also got the NZ translated engine manual. Between them I have most things covered.

ok, i've figured it out. The exhaust temp lamp and the engine check light are one and the same.

Do the R32 GTST's have a dash mounted engine check light? If it does, can anyone tell me where the signal is fed from? The nearest I can find on my diagrams is the check light wired to pin 32, but on my diagrams that is shown as being connected to the exhaust temperature sensor.

hmmm maybe it is an energy polariser. I was definately getting a bad vibe when I removed it. I found it in my engine manual, as GTS20X said.

I'm doing the last bits of wiring for a conversion where i'm using a Bosch pump so I need to know whether this bit is worth keeping.

That's what I reckon too!!

What is this: From memory it was located in the engine bay on the passenger side. If i'm reading correctly, my wiring diagram shows it as being between the -ve terminal of the fuel pump and the body earth.

My R32 owners manual shows that the egt signal is connected to pin 32 of the ecu - but its only to the check lamp and there are no ecu functions that are controlled. The last time we covered this someone mentioned that on the R33's the ecu checks if the sensor is connected otherwise it will enter limp mode (but the actual signal isn't used by the ecu).