browny

Damn, looks like i've missed out again.

Ghostrider, Did you get my PM?

Why? IMO the only real benefit of not having a bend in before the TB is to prevent any unusual flow patterns from messing with the distribution of air to each cylinder, and I tend to think this would be a small, if not negligible effect in the majority of situations. If you wanted to be pedantic, the safest bet would be to stick with the factory piping, as that's the only configuration thats had any real R&D. I also don't understand your comments about air "backing up" at the throttle plate.

I don't get this, what do you mean?

All of you guys who have killed RB20 boxes - Do you still have them and would you be willing to sell me the neutral switch?

I can see several problems running peltiers... 1. They aren't very powerful and therefore you would need lots to get sufficient cooling capacity 2. Attaching them to the intercooler in an effective manner may be a challenge 3. You might lose more power through the electrical system than what you gain by the cooler charge air 4. The peltiers need effective cooling of the the hot side to get the cold side suitably cool Only way i could see it happening is if you designed a custom IC that is set up to take the peltiers, and then refeer to point 3. It would probably look quite different to a traditional IC.

How many threads have we had on this... My personal opinion is that it will make SFA real world difference whether its painted pink, green, blue, white, black or left as bare metal. So paint it whatever colour you think looks nice.

AFAIK none are off the shelf. RIPS in NZ do one, ~ 2wk turnaround time.

It's not an investment, but it is an asset. If you are going to try and justify this exercise on economic grounds, then I want to see the math behind it. Depreciation is a real running cost, just like fuel, maintenance and finance costs. IMO doing a f uckload of km in a performance car seems to be a good way to waste money.

What sort of depreciation does 25,000 km p.a. result in?

Hey I agree that LPG is good value for a commuter hack. I don't agree that it's a good idea to take a good performance car and spend a bunch of money on it to make it a worse performance car, just to save a few bucks on running costs.

The figures I pinched from the web site are from one of the ADR drive cycle tests, so as a reasonably controlled comparison, that'll do for me.

Col-GTSX Figures from Ford Austs web site: Facon XT Barra 182 engine (4.0L DOHC VCT I6) 182kW @ 5000 RPM 380Nm @ 3250 RPM 68L tank 11.5 L/100km 504 L boot E-Gas Engine (4.0L DOHC VCT Egas I6) 156kW @ 4750 RPM 372Nm @ 3000 RPM 93L tank 15.3 L/100km 379 L boot Maybe i'm missing something, but the Egas engine appears to produce 14% less power, use 33% more fuel and you lose 25% of boot space. Taxis only use gas because they do mega km.

psybic, please tell me how you know that gas will always be cheap. As I said before, diesel was cheap once. True that everyone is in a unique situation, but for someone who does around the 15k mark p.a. (ie an average driver) it's going to be three or so years before you break even. So to make it worthwhile you need to do a lot more km than the average driver, and if this is the case then I'd question whether an expensive sports car is a wise choice....

The other thing to think about is whether LPG is going to maintain it's low pricing. I can remember when diesel was cheap.

Worst idea ever. LPG is a good idea for daily hacks that rack up eleventybillion km, or as a loophole to engineer conversions where emissions are an issue (maybe they have even closed this loophole). PS Bit of trivia. LPG doesn't actually smell. They add a chemical to make it smell so you can detect leaks.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88286

Do these pics help? First one is MX7 (L) and RB20 ® Second one is RB25 box. The MX7 box is the one found in VL turbos, it's very similar in size and strength to the RB25 box.

Basically the assembly procedures (which include all the checking & measuring, resizing, surface finishing, balancing etc) should be consistant with the rest of the build. ie if its just a quick and nasty slap together job then you are probably not going to take it too far, however if its a full on no expense spared high rpm race engine then you are going to be pretty thorough. Your engine builder should be able to tell you what is appropriate for the engine you are building.

I pinched these from Warspeeds posts over at CT. Hopefully it helps....

If you're concerned about blow by causing problems, then install a catch can so the crank gases are cleaned up before they are combusted.

Been asked a million times before. Its appears to be sh!it load of work to fit it (ie mucho welding and grinding), with questionable results which overall tend to suggest it's not worthwhile.

It's a PCV valve. It allows the engine to suck in and burn oily crankcase gases. The authorities don't like it if the PCV system is tampered with, but as long as you make sure it remains a closed system (ie no venting to atmosphere) then you should be right.

I'm certain the thread will be BSP, just not sure what size. In fact all the tapered threads on the RB's appear to be BSP. The Autometer gauge will be NPT. The adaptor will look like the one in the middle: Try www.airco.com.au The stock sender is located low on the drivers side of the engine, near the oil filter.

I think thats the million dollar question. From memory he was going to put together a tech article about installing RB26 cams but I don't think he ever got around to it. I'm just guessing here, but I wonder if there are some subtle cam timing differences that are causing dificulties (eg setting an RB26 cam up using the RB20 timing marks etc might not put an RB26 cam at true 0 degrees, instead it might be advanced or retarded a bit). Who knows tho.