browny

The RB20 uses a tapered BSP (1/4" I think) fitting for the std oil pressure sensor. RB25 is probably the same. BSP threads are very common in Aus, referred to as "gas threads" a lot of the time. You can get various double adaptors that will screw into the port on the block which will give you a port for the std oil press sensor plus another to for the gauge sensor. You will need to know what sort of thread the gauge sensor uses. Some use unusual threads like NPT (eg Autometer). Any place that sells gauges should be able to help you out with this sort of gear. I've never set up an oil temp gauge but it's common to use the sump plug as a gauge port. Another option is to modify your sump by welding on a port to suit. If you're using an oil cooler you might also be able to find a special fitting that will fit into your oil lines. You might have to do some of the research yourself on what tricky litle adaptors are available from Speedflow/Earls etc.

yes, thats the way mine is set up.

Hey, I've sent you an email....

You can buy them online from the guys who translated them: http://www.jpnz.co.nz I think there are some aussie distributors as well. The way its drawn in the diagrams is that the negative terminal of the puel pump is connected to two places - the dropping resistor and the FPCM. The resistor is hardwired between the pumps negative terminal and the earth. The FPCM switches on and off based on the ECU signal and effectively shorts out the dropping resistor. Don't know why Nissan did it this way. I guess if the FPCM fails, then you can still run the pump at low speed so you can limp somewhere to get it fixed.

BH_SLO32 is on the money. Only thing I would add is that the FPCM also appears to switch in when the engine is under load.

Based on the wiring diagrams and the service manual (ie i've never actually pulled one apart) all the stock system appears to do is switch a resistor inline with the pump, thereby dropping the pump voltage. This is controlled by a signal wire from the ECU. Not sure exactly what the ECU uses to determine when it should be at "low", possibly neutral switch or idle switch or both? I can look up more when I get home.

SK, is $2k really representative of the true cost of setting something like this up? Does it include the cost of modifying the sump? What would installation and fabrication cost if you weren't able to do it yourself? IMO dry sumping is right up at the pointy end of the hardcore scale (ie serious race cars). I've heard of a few people buying ex race car stuff from the US, can't point you to an exact place tho.

Same, but mine are A3 with little writing as well. So scanning probably won't be an option. I'll see what I can do.

I have the R32 engine, body and rear looms diagrams in the form you are after ie schematic form with wire id's, colours, switch internals etc I'm unfortunately missing the ecu loom, some of the door looms, AC loom plus some of the other little stuff like the Hicas/spoiler etc.

If you are around Newcastle I can help.

Saw this on another forum.... Quality? I can't believe people can be happy with this level of workmanship.

What I would do is find someone who is able to run some diagnostics on the car to see whether there is a specific sensor/switch/actuator thats sh!t itself. Either a workshop or someone who can datalog using a CONSULT interface and who knows what they are looking at. You might be able to isolate the problem quickly and easily, with minimal headscratching.

Where are you located?

Anyone know where to get these for RB20, and roughly how much?

A suggestion. At the moment the thread icons that indicate new posts or no new posts are pretty similar, ie light blue vs lighter blue or red vs light red. I find the present icons are a little difficult to differentiate. Is it possible to change the new posts icon to something that stands out a little better?

Works well for me, although I second lwells' suggestion RE a time delay.

One good argument i've seen regarding response, is that the bearing design doesn't matter much, but the blade design does. IMO its incorrect to attribute the better response of modern turbos solely to the use of ball bearings, because the blade designs are years apart in terms of development.

Size, weight, internals, price, strength. The bellhousing bolt pattern is the same tho.

ok then wise guys. If you were magic, how would you go about providing this so called proof that the product works?

Actually I don't know how you could ever sell a generic aftermarket part and guarantee it would meet any test, unless it was over engineered to buggery (=expensive). If I was selling generic aftermarket parts I certainly wouldn't guarantee any performance aspects of the product in a specific application, especially if it was targetted at modified performance cars which are each going be unique. Guaranteeing replacement OEM parts is different, because you are designing the product to meet a known application/specification. As long as you are confident the product meets or exceeds the OEM spec then you can make the guarantee. So I would ask if Magic are selling factory replacement parts or generic parts. If they are selling generic parts I think there's buckleys of them ever guaranteeing anything. Also, although I like the idea of testing the magic and Catco products side by side, I think we'll need to be very careful interpreting the results. Effectively all we are going to be able to gauge is the relative performance of each product on the test car. I think it would be wrong to try and extrapolate these results to mean that any other car will pass or fail an EPA test. I'd also like to see any tests baselined against a totally stock car with a new OEM cat.

and some more, taken from another forum...

By true sense I mean used as everyday transport, in traffic etc. The only reason i'm asking these questions is that I found your first post very interesting, although it did make modern antilag systems sound like they are all beer and pretzels. So i'm just trying to establish exactly how feasible it is to use ALS for an everday driver, and based on your second post i'd say not very, because of the loud and obnoxious factor, but also because i'd like to see a whole lot more km's racked up before I'd consider it reliable.

Interesting Amaru. When you say: Can you give me a few more details on these cars. eg Are the cars everyday drivers in the true sense? Is the antilag switched on all the time or only say at the track? How many km's do you consider to be "many" - 10,000km?, 50,000km?, 100,000km?

Easy, just make them from a directionally solidified nickel super alloy like jet turbine blades. The only problem is that people might baulk at a turbine wheel that costs the same as the entire rest of their car. Really, if its as simple as just picking a suitably high temperature grade of steel for the turbine, then i'm sure that anti lag would be a lot more feasible at a consumer level. The fact that it's confined to race cars suggests that there's a whole lot more to it.