browny

Because there are 6 individual coils in a Skyline (ie one per cylinder), which makes for some fun wiring it up and designing circuits so that all the signals don't interfere with each other. God knows the sort of trouble you could get into. It's not like a old single coil car where you just have to piggyback onto a single wire to get the tacho signal. IMO its much better to mess with non critical instrumentation wiring rather than start compromising the integrity of the wiring thats essential for reliable operation of the engine (ie splicing into coil wiring etc). If the tacho doesn't work straight out of the box, then a pull up resistor might work and that is going to cost about $1. If you have tried this and it doesn't work, a tacho booster will only take 5 min to install, but it'll cost $50-100. Whatever option ends up working, you are still going to need to locate the tacho signal wire, +12V and GND, so you might as well start with the cheapest option first...

ok, I'm all out of ideas as to whats going on then.

Try connecting it straight to pin 7 first, if its a new tacho it might be designed for universal applications. If it doesn't work you will still need to work out which wire is pin 7 anyway, plus you will need a +12V and GND sources, so you aren't really wasting any time if it doesn't work.

Tacho output is a 0-5V square wave. But... All pin 7 does is switch between open and ground. So to get a signal you need to connect a voltage source to pin 7. AFAIK this is done internally in the tacho (+5V). If you don't connect pin 7 to a voltage source then the ecu is just switching pin 7 between open (0V) and ground (0V) and therefore you don't get any signal. The upshot is that if you have an OEM tacho, and it works, then the tacho connection should work. But this is just background info and doesn't really answer your question. From what I remember the tacho output is actually a cylindrical connector with a single pin, are you sure you are measuring from the right place and you're not measuring from the timing light pickup loop?

Pin 7 is the signal wire that the OEM tacho uses (also need +12V and GND). Some tacho's will work fine if their signal input is connected straight to Pin 7. Others don't work straight away and need a bit of fiddling, it just depends on the tacho. It seems less likely that the tacho will work if it was designed for a coil type ignition (eg some US tachos and EFI conversions into older cars) rather than an EFI application (eg Jap tachos).

You might have problems depending on the tacho type. Basically you can try hooking up pin 7 as the signal wire and if that works you are laughing. If that fails you can try a pull up resistor, then a tacho booster. Get back to us if you need more info on the last two.

The other aspect of SS that I've seen questioned before is it's strength at elevated temperatures. I can't remember exactly what the comment was tho.

I've heard the rumours as well, but this is the first time i've actually seen pics.

I saw this on another forum and thought it was particularly interesting, especially after some of the discussions we've had here. http://pforums.company-hosting.com/forums/....php?t=67192164

IMO Street Car = Something you would be happy to drive on a public road in traffic Otherwise people will argue that a squillionty horsepower V8 with 1000 rpm power band at 9000RPM is a 'street car' because they found the right engineer to certify it and the right rego checker. Eg. Rod Hadfields Merlin powered Chev has enough registration so that he can drive it on a public road, that doesn't mean I consider it a street car however. This also covers all the show pony Street Machine stuff that they call "street cars", even though they are trailored everywhere because the owner is so shit scared of stonechips, dust etc.

Dude it seems to be just a matter of splicing the GTR resistor pack inline with the 12V supply to the injectors. It sounds like something that will become abundantly clear once you have everything in front of you and unwrapped. Sounds to me to be easier than changing injector plugs. Its only cutting and joining 7 wires.

My understanding is that EFI really shows its advantages in all the stuff that doesn't really matter for a full throttle race car. Things like cold starts, part load drivebility, emissions, responding to ancilliary load etc just don't matter on this sort of vehicle. EFI isn't magic, it's just a very precise and easily controlled method of metering fuel. All a car such as this needs is something to dump the right amount of fuel into the engine at WOT, which a carb can do fine..

AFAIK the std 4AGZE pistons are 81mm with a 20mm pin. With a RB26 crank this gives around 2300cc The RB26 rods have a small end of 21mm, so they need to be bushed if using the Toyota pistons. Regarding availabilility of the 4AGZE stuff, when I looked into this last, there was a thread on Toymods that said the pistons were available through Toyota, however most dealers didn't want to help. From memory they were ~$120 each. I think the head also needs some work to suit the increased bore. There will also be some fiddling with combustion chamber & deck height to get the desired compression ratio. RB26 crank and rods seems way cheap for $300-400. I'd be budgeting more like double that. A new oil, water pump and new fasteners would probably be worth factoring in as well.

Seriously, I think this is being over analysed waaay too much. *Significant factors in the choice of material are: Corrosion resistance (aesthetics), ease of fabrication, cost, availability *Significant factors in the choice of colour/surface finish are: Aesthetics *Minor factors (IMO not worth worrying about) in the choice of material and colour/surface finish are: Heat transfer, emissivity

Is shape changing illegal. Sorry, couldn't resist.

A radiator is a convective device, colour is irrelevant for convection. Radiation will contribute 2/10 of fark all of the total heat transfer.

My guess is aesthetics and corrosion resistance.

There are two 'old school' Supra boxes that I can think of: The W58 supra box that's commonly referred to as the "Supra 5spd" is actually from the NA engines and by all reports it's about the same strength as the RB20 box (definitely about the same size and weight). About the same cost as well. I have heard some people say that the W58 can hold up fine behind 1UZ and 1/2JZGTE but i'd assume that this is only if it's treated carefully. The big Supra box (R154) from the turboed engines is from all reports pretty much on par with the RB25 box in terms of strength, size, weight and cost. At least as difficult to find, possibly more. So unless there is something about the Supra boxes that is overwhelmingly attractive (ie gearing), I can't see either being a really attractive option over the Nissan boxes, which are essentially a bolt in proposition and won't need a bunch of stuffing around and $ to fit.

Personally I really would get in touch with lukevl first. He works at a cam place (Tighe Cams?) that seems to be pretty well up to speed on the Nissan engines. Yella Terra is a name I more associate with old aussie/english/US stuff. If they even do cams, they probably aren't the best to ask about Nissan stuff.

Get in touch with lukevl

Depending on how the bolt is snapped off, you might also be able to weld something (like a nut) onto whatever is left of the broken fastener. If you don't really know what you are doing, it might be worthwhile getting one of the mobile thread repair type guys to come and extract the busted bolt. For $100 or so it might save a lot of time, frustration and could prevent further damage. Removing busted easy outs isn't much fun.

Please note that it is only the exhaust wheel that is ceramic. The compressor wheel is either metal (unsure whether steel or Aluminium) or nylon depending on which series of RB25 it came from.

By this you mean the the exhaust wheel isn't ceramic, right?

By "crimp connector" I am referring to an oem style crimp termination where the terminal crimps onto both the wire and the insulation. The reason I like this type of termination is because the crimp onto the insulation gives the joint good mechanical strength. I've never seen one of these joints fail (but then again I haven't really looked at that much wiring, i'm interested in others experiences). I really don't see the need to solder one of the above joints, but as long as you don't get too much heat into the terminal and soften the insulation, it might be good insurance in hostile environments like you are talking about. BTW I'm not referring to the cheapie "squash it flat" type spade crimp terminal - These are the worst of the worst. The reason I generally don't like soldered joints is because they tend to make the wire brittle if you get too much heat into the joint (easy on fine gauge stuff). And if there isn't any mechanical connection onto the wire then this is a failure waiting to happen. Splicing/shortening/lengthening wiring is a bit different. It's not that bad to solder and carefully wrap the joint up, however my preference would be to run a whole new section of wiring from terminal to terminal because this doesn't introduce any extra joins where the wiring could potentially fail.

Actually, if you work out how the terminals are locked in, it's usually quite easy to get them out. Most of the Nissan connectors i've seen use some sort of little locking tab (in some cases two) that fits into a recess in the terminal. A fine scribe or a spare terminal is good for releasing these tabs. The MIG wire suggestion sounds like a great idea too! Is the GM style stuff that you are referring to the "weatherpak" connectors? I've used them and they are ok, but IMO aren't anywhere near as nice a design or as well made as the OEM Nissan stuff. Also, the weatherpak stuff that is readily available seem to be connectors only - not replacement plugs to connect to OEM sensors etc. It's relatively cheap and easy to get good condition used connector housings from old looms, but this leaves you with the problem of how to terminate your wiring. I'm not a fan of soldering anywhere in an auto loom so the ultimate thing would be to find a source of OEM terminals and crimp tooling ($$$) and then you could make your own OEM quality looms. The next best alternative is to splice/extend/shorten wiring by soldering, heatshrinking and then carefully wrapping and supporting to ensure the join won't break through fatigue. Also, finding the range on wire colours to match that of the factory could be difficult. So at the end of the day, if you are using OEM sensors and management, its probably easier to just get an OEM loom and modify (by soldering) little bits here and there to suit your particular application (what i've had to do). If your using aftermarket management you could just offload it all onto whoever is providing the management and let them work it out!