browny

yes. AFAIK the ECU adjust the idle speed based on whether you are in or out of gear.

There is zero chance of finding the connectors at any regular electronics place (Dick Smith/Jaycar etc). A suitably large and interested auto electrical wholesaler might be able to help but your chances are slim. I'd either buy a 2nd hand loom, ring Nissan or start calling people who do specialist ECU type wiring (eg ECU installers). Castle Auto Electrics in Vic is one place I can think of off the top of my head who do a lot of conversion wiring and claim to use the factory plugs. Also, the proper terminating tools are likely to be hidously expensive and therefore cost prohibitive for someone who only wants to do a little bit of DIY wiring. If you find anything out, keep me updated 'cos I've never managed to get far with this type of enquiry. I'd love to be able to modify my own wiring and still keep it nice and neat and factory looking and free of solder.

I'm after a working neutral switch. Please PM if you can help. Cheers, TIm

Unfortunately SK I think i'm in this position as well....but i'll still check out your first suggestion. Damn painting myself into corners....

Yes. Although the emmisivity may play some part in the convective heat transfer coefficient if you drilled down into the theory far enough. I can see how this is relevant to conduction tho. It's a bit risky trying to extrapolate industrial situations to auto applications. We might be talking orders of magnitude higher temperatures. I'd also be careful to make sure that I understood exactly what a 'high emmisivity' coating actually means (I don't btw but i'm interested to learn). If it's a coating thats designed primarily for protection (or appearance) and minimal reduction in heat transfer, it does not neccesarily mean that it's better than nothing.

Your right, but thats not what I am arguing. What I am saying is that I think radiative heat transfer in devices such as intercoolers and radiators is so small in comparison to the convective heat transfer, that it's insignificant and therefore there's no real advantage in painting it black, blue, pink, red or any other colour. If anything I'd tend to think the insulating properties of the paint would be undesirable. IMO the factory coatings are designed for aesthetics and corrosion protection.

Yep. I'm not entirely convinced thats going to work, but i'll check it out. I'd have to go outboard of the radiator hose because there's virtually no space anywhere in front of the engine (it's so tight that I had to get one of the pulley hubs machined off the harmonic balancer to fit).

I think people are trying to read way too much into this. A radiator/intercooler is primarily a convective device. Convection is driven by airflow, surface area and temperature difference. The heat transfer by radiation is going to be relatively small. Any gain that you get from painting it black is probably going to be lost due to the insulating properties of the paint.

Close. It's actually a mid 60's holden....and it's tight fit. Height is probably not so much of an issue as ic pipework.

Well in my case the car is travelling at 0km/hr and looks like it will continue to do so until I find a solution for the plenum. An aftermarket plenum at least gives me a chance of travelling at >0km/hr.

ok, I see what you mean. AFAIK what you get is a finished, ready to bolt on plenum. Also comes with a bored out std throttle body.

I have a situation where i'm having similar packaging issues. The plenum i'm likely to use is the one from RIPS They do this one for around the $1400NZ mark: For more info, try contacting Rob at RIPS -> [email protected] I'm interested in any other's that peiople can suggest. EDIT: D'oh

wazz RIPS don't have a web site as such. They are members of both this forum and SDU so a PM is your best bet. They are also in NZ.

ok, all I am really wanting to do is get a ballpark on where the piston ends up. Everyone always says 'you can use 4AGZE pistons' but then no-one can say with any confidence where the crown is going to end up in the bore. Taking a mm or so off the deck height isn't a problem but ending up with the crown poking out of the block by an inch certainly is!

Hi wazz, this is the RIPS RB20 plenum: It's similarly priced to what John is offering (cheaper for RB25/30). I've never seen RIPS make any real performance claims but that might be just so they avoid threads like this. For me, i'm not that concerned about the performance aspect of either plenum because my interest is because of packaging problems with a tight engine conversion.

Yes there is - RIPS plenum ~ $1,400

Matt Have you worked out how high the 4AGZE pistons will sit in the bore, using the std RB26 rod length and piston pin placement? This is the only thing I haven't been able to find out.

The nics rb20 manifold I had was really different looking compared with to the eccs unit. You couldnt really mistake one for the other. Can you take pics?

Also think about new oil and water pumps, gaskets, fasteners etc. Maybe have a custom copper gasket made up. Shouldn't be too hard to find an Aus company that will do this. Probably cheaper than the imported jap stuff too. As per Wazz's post. Expensive tho, when I last looked around $2k. 78mm bore std It's not such a common build in Aus because you can get comparable or better results by other cheaper means (ie just put an RB25 in). Hence no-one can really tell you what all the issues are going to be and it's largely going to be a case of 'suck it and see'. To fit the Rb26 crank and rods you need to relieve the block. You will also need to modify the head to suit the larger bore. 4AGZE 81mm pistons have been brought up a couple of times as a cheap alternative to the Tomei stuff (eg ~$100 each), however i've never seen any information about where the piston ends up in the bore (height wise). The RB26 rods will need to be bushed if used with these pistons. If I can get the length of a std RB20 conrod then we'll be able to work out where the piston will end up in the bore and decide whether the 4AGZE pistons are worth pursuing Not that I know of. There are a few threads on here that cover most of this build tho.

superclarkey Would you be able to do me a favour whilst you have the RB20 in bits.... Can you measure the RB20 conrod length for me?

* Why design the unit as a bolt on top half (rather than welded to the lower half of the runners ala RIPS style)? I've got two issues with the two piece design. First, maintaining a nice flat surface to get good gasket sealing is more of a problem (ok, machining will solve this, but you don't need to worry about this with a one piece design). Second, you introduce potential for air leaks around the bolts holding the two halves together (which can be avoided using blind holes or lots of thread sealant - but once again not a concern with the one piece design). * Is the end offset to accomodate the clutch cylinder on Rb20's? * Does the plenum accept all std sensors and actuators?

They generally seem to be priced at $200-300 in the FS section.

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=13913

I always thought dry sumping was hideously expensive, ie $1000-1500 just for the pump. Are there disadvantages (other than cost) for dry sumping a road car? The reason I ask is that i'm doing a conversion thats very tight, and i'm not 100% happy with the modified sump i'm using at the moment (too tight around steering, marginal capacity, shape).

Convection is the dominant means of heat transfer for radiators and intercoolers. At a guess radiation would only account for maybe 5% of the total heat transfer. My guess as to why a lot of EOM stuff is painted/coloured black is a mixture of aesthetics and corrosion protection.