browny

Vicroads have an information booklet for Taxis: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsaf...fe/vsi%2031.pdf My brief flick through suggests they can mount a dispatcher on the dash if this doesn't obscure the road surface 11m ahead. Although I don't really see why discussion of Taxis is relevant. You could always subscribe to the ADR's if you really want them: http://www.dotars.gov.au/transreg/str_subs...bscriptions.htm

This might not be so useful because it refers to external gauges http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsaf...afe/vsi%208.pdf This has a few things on visibility in the windscreen section http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsaf...fe/vsi%2026.pdf Unfortunately, though, no ADR info.

I'd be making the plenum to suit the car, rather than modifying the car to suit the plenum. 5cm is what I would consider a lot. Sticking your head under the dash would probably give you a good idea of the degree of difficulty...

Can I ask why? Having stuffed around with fitting a non oem booster and relocating the clutch master on my car (not a Skyline) I'd suggest you could be in for a world of trouble. In particular, setting up the brake pedal so it will still actuate the booster in its new position whilst maintaining acceptable pedal feel might be fun. That said, anything is possible and if its only a few mm it might not be too hard.

AFAIK it's a resistor that splits the voltage to allow the high/low operation of the fuel pump.

I think the CAS provides the ECU with RPM.

Have you talked to Grant from Sixworks? Possible problems: * The tacho has had the dick * The ecu has had the dick * The booster is wired up incorrectly (mine didn't display the check light as per the instuctions because of the way the Nissan system works - but it works fine with engine running) * Wrong type of booster for the tacho - there are two types

In a nutshell you have four options: * use the factory tacho * keep trying aftermarket tachos until you find one that works * Try a pull up resistor * Get a tacho booster

Well since you haven't answered my question, I will assume by ECU you mean the engine control unit. Pinouts here: http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html 4 is missing and should be AAC Valve 6 should be blank The following from the ECU circuits are connected to the A/T control unit: 30 56 48 Pin 3 of throttle valve switch 53 14 5 15

Do you want the pinout for the engine control unit or the auto gearbox control unit? If its the former then the manual and auto pinouts are usually on the same diagram, any specific wires for each transmission will be marked accordingly. These are relatively easy to find. If its the latter I might be able to decode my wiring diagrams but I might not be so accurate, and it might take some time.

What you might find is that mild steel is approx the same price because it not very high demand. Although not ideal, i'm pretty sure you can weld stainless and mild together. Stainless wire is expensive.

Don't know if this helps, but you can get 3" stainless mandrel bends for $20-30 from just about any stainless distributor. If you are careful enough you wont make any major mistakes. Just start from the front and work back. Tack each section in place progressively and perform lots of trial fits before the final welding.

I've seen 1.5 way KAAZ centres listed for the BW78 series diff as found in commodores VL-VS. Although i'm not sure whether the 25 spline diffs found in some of the VL range are compatible.

I think Greenline have made a typo.

Have you looked into the KAAZ centre?

Garage cleanout. R32 RB20DET * Condensor fan - free * Washer bottle - free * Overflow bottle - free * Radiator fan - free * AC Compressor + mount - $20 (pickup only) * Speedo cable - $10 EH * VH44J remote brake booster - $50 * PBR remote brake booster, unsure of model but was mated to HR disc conversion (one mounting stud stripped) - $10 * CRS adaptor to mount HQ style brake booster - $10 * 2" lowering blocks (no U bolts) - $10 * Speedo - no cracks in face - $20 * Rods racks sump suit rear mount rack + red 6, unused - $100 * Gen/oil/temp gauge, cracked face - free * Chromed 4 hole gauge holder + gauges (Splitfire volt, oil, vac + a cheap temp) - $100 * HR disc brake setup (stubs, discs, calipers) - $50 (pickup only) Misc * RB20 NICS manifold - free * RB20 NICS crossover pipe (no bov flange) - free * Alloy timing gear suit Holden six (not sure if red or blue). New in box. - $40 * 6 starfire rods (I think, can't guarantee they are tho) - free * 3x Lynx Ramflo air filters suit SU's - free * 4x RX7 intercooler cores - $10ea * Gates flexible radiator hose 38mm x 203mm, unused - free * Gates flexible radiator hose 38mm x 44mm x 508mm, unused - free * Splitfire 2 5/8" tacho + cup, only used 2 weeks (PN 25852B) - $90 * Davies Craig 13"(?) thermofan - free * VL NA fuel pump - $10 Open to offers. Can't guarantee any of the 2nd hand parts work (except EH) as they are mostly unused spares or bits and pieces i've picked up along the way. Anything listed as free is pickup only, I'll send it if you want but you need to make it worth the effort of packing it up. Photos on request. Located in Newcastle. Email contact [email protected] Cheers, Tim

lol. we've been through this already. He's allowed to try and sell it for whatever price he wants.

The "sender" actually a pin on the ECU.

re-read my post above. There is a reason why that wire doesnt read give any reading. It needs to be connected to a voltage source. Go to an auto electrician that knows what they are measuring......

IMO the sixworks booster is the go. The ~$50 one has 4 wires - Pin 7, 12V, GND & Tacho output. I like it because there's no chance of compromising any of the important signal wiring that the ECU uses to actually run the engine.

What I remember doesn't agree with any of your comments. I'll check my service manual when back at home. BTW, my comments are all for the R32 RB20DET.

The tacho signal wire (pin 7) generates a signal by shorting to ground through the ECU. If you were to connect this wire to an oscilloscope (and nothing else), the voltage waveform would be a flat line at 0V, ie the pin is being switched by the ECU between ground and 0V. To get a signal other than a flat line, you need to connect a voltage source to pin 7, so then the ECU is switching pin 7 between (say) 12V and 0V and therfore generating a square wave. I'm pretty sure the gear that provides a voltage source to pin 7 is integral with the OEM tacho and I think this generates a 0-5V waveform. Also different tacho's are deisgned to work with different voltage waveforms, some are universal but others are designed to work at say 12V or hundreds of volts (ie direct from the coil). You can generate a 0-12V square wave by connecting pin 7 to a 12V rail. Because no-one knows the current limit of the circuit for pin 7 a pull up resistor of say 10k ohms is usually connected between the 12V rail and pin 7. This limits to current to a small amount so you don't burn out that part of the ECU. The pull up resistor method will only work for tachos which can use a 0-12V signal tho and it won't solve your problems if you need to modify the frequency of the pulses for different cylinder engines. If the tacho doesn't work, you will need a device that can generate a voltage signal that your tacho can read. These are commonly referred to as tacho boosters. Sixworks in Newcastle sell these devices (approx $50 or $100 depending on which you need). These take about 5 min to install, I can put you in touch if you like.

I havent heard any feedback but if you go ahead with it please post up a review.

So, what caused the 15 car pile up that brought on the truck accident?

Will this change the way people drive on the F3 tho? My bet is that everyone tailgating and generally driving like fools as I write this...