Taso84

If it happens all the time when ur in gear then its most likely ur diff, If it happens when on/off throttle or during engage then it could be the CV joints. PLZ EVERY1, check that ur wheel nuts are done up tight. I had the exact same symptoms 2 months ago and it was becoz of loose wheel nuts, so check this first!

price drop to 180

The thing about this is that my acc is accesable than more than just 1 person, and what happens if im just making shit up? Like in MR GTIR's case its obvious that what he wrote was true, coz the officer can confirm he did it. But if i say now that i clocked 260km/h on the eastern freeway last nite, mayb im just trying to act cool and stuff.

Hey, ive spoken to that guy sgt robbins before, hes a good guy, it was outside chapellis on chapel street i think. Hes one of the better cops, and he doesnt pick on imports from what he told me. I hope im not being "monitered" as a "specific individual(s)"

yea u can hear pinging, turn the stereo down and open the windows

Yea if cops catcha, theyll tell u to fix it and might slap a canary on. If EPA catchu, you will get a 10,000 fine. Man, im against noise pollution laws, but honestly, do u know how much ur polluting the air by not having a cat? The cat filters most of the more dangerous chemicals. If every1 listened to markimak then we would all be wearing gas masks within 10 years. Im no "ultra left greenie" but honestly, there are very dangerous sulfurs in the exhaust that need filtering

Got some questions that afta doing some research, i havent been able to come up with conclusive answers, so id like to ask: For an r33 GTS-t stock turbo, 1) when pple say the stock turbo shouldnt be pushed past 14psi, do they mean the boost made at the turbo or are they refering to the boost at the manifold? Im asking coz if i have u 2psi drop across the cooler piping, then saying that the stock turbo is good for 14, really means istd good for 16 if ur measuring it from the manifold. 2) If a turbo has a life of 60,000km, wouldnt boosting it to say 10 -12psi (from 7) mean thats its life is shortened by at least a 1/3? If ur buying a 2nd hand car, the turbo prob has less than 30,000 left, so boosting it could mean u have 20,000kms or less? Since in a typical year u would drive 15 -20,000kms how can ppl say 10 - 12psi is reliable when the turbo will most likely blow within a year and a half? 3) Is it normal for a r33 GTS-t to pull unbelievably hard in 1st gear, very good in 2nd, but pretty poorly in third gear, even up to redline? Is this signs of the turbo maxing out?

Im very curious as to what this could be. Just to clarify: 1) After u hit boost 4-4500rpm, does the car pull as hard as it used to? 2) How long ago did u do ur boost controller? My opinion is that chances are, uve got urself a boost leak (mayb from the boost controller instal). On a stock turbo, u should begin spooling at around 2.5 and be at full boost by before 3.5. If ur not hitting boost till 4.5, this would indicate that ur leaking a significant amount of psi. After u start to get positive pressure in the throttle body, the car will feel normal. You should be able to realise this is happening if its happening because ur hear ur turbo spooling while ur gauge is still reading 0 or below.

That is nowhere near as bad as the worst day of my life, i usually have 1 a year. By the end of the day once i was nearly in tears coz of the hopelessness of the situation. Trust me, its ok, u get a new front and rear bar for free

So does drilling the hole make u drop boost at high RPM? Who can confirm this?

I havent noticed any lag since putting mine on, mayb its in ur heads

Beat me to it mate, The way that the water aids cooling is much like the sweating mechanism in ur body, heat is transfered from ur body into the sweat and it is then evaporated. What alot of ppl dont realise however, is that the heat energy is realed mainly through the proccess of evaporation, since it requires a substanital amount of energy to convert water from liquid ito gaseous form. That is y u will notice that while u r sweating, if there is no wind, u will stil feel very hot, however even the slightest breeze will make u feel colder, since the breeze is aiding evaporation, which allows more water onto ur body and more heat transfer. SO in the case of FMIC, the water spray wouldbe useless whilst the car is stationary, and less effective during humid days. To be most effective u would probably need a constant spray for the entire time ur boosting, as any water sprayed would pretty much be instantly evaporated by the wind. A chemical such as methanol would prob be even more effective as it evaporates easier, but then again, who's gonna keep a bottle of methanol inside their bonnet

Was speaking to a tuner last week regarding my car, and he suggested i remove the FMIC and replace it with a pipe straight from the turbo to the throttle body and have a water or methanol sprayer installed just before the throttle body that sprays in vapour to cool the air. He said the actual device (sprayer) costs less than $50 to install and its far more efficient than a FMIC that has a pressure drop and is heated by the engine Anybody tried this sort of setup at all? To me it made sence sxcept for 1 thing, wouldn't spraying vapour into the air mean that the water will get inside ur engine and screw it up? He said that the water inside ur engine would be harmless, but im not sure about this.

Trust me man, thats pretty normal, especially if ur in the inner suburbs, where its very stop start. If u wanted to conserve fuel, i would suggest that u keep ur car in the 2 - 3000 rpm range and off boost so the engine is not under load, and use 5th gear on highways and freeways

yea, im sure, but i had other mods, full exhaust with split, airfilter and FMIC

My car was making 190rwkw with stock boost and stock turbo. Wat other mods did u have?

In ITaly and Greece, its particularly bad

Another performance company such as trust of HKS would do well to buy them out or at least aquire the product designs. Apexi's products were prob the best on the market

i never knew nuts could be this expensive

Price drop to $200, forgot about this, or swap for a bosch 040 or 044 fuel pump

^^^ lol, was about to ask the same question altho u could hook up ur normal comp to run games off the server

be careful.... any sorta cigarette advertising is illegal, that said... if u were in melb, id buy them

wats the flow rate of the 040 pumps champ

if it happened after u changed plugs, y dont u just change back to the original plugs?

before u check coils check spark plugs, i thought i had coil problems but the sparkies were screwed. Go buy urself a set of coppers for $30, then if that doesnt fix it, its the coils. It sounds like a rev limiter at 4000rpm right?