ECR 033

ill read up on that... cheers. also just found a small leak in the hard plastic pipe that runs from the bov's to the intake.... not sure if this would cause my issue?

oh and the afm voltages seems ok... no sudden drop outs etc.

i did a compression test and got the same reading across all 6 also fitted a new fuel pump and hooked up the compressor to the intake and founds some small leaks.... fixed them up, still no different. still misfires at idle (not a complete cylinder drop) just a slight one...and if i give it a rev and let my foot off... the revs die to about 500rpm and it sounds like its running on 5cyl.. and puffs a cloud of unburnt fuel out the back. then the revs pick up to 1100rpm and missfires as normal.

Engine build is done, its cost me alot to get it this far, i was spending money on other area's of the car not only the engine, so money was going quick..lol.. so i just replaced the things I thought really needed replacing, i had no power figure in mind at the time, but after each mod i did, it seemed a waste to not upgrade the next thing in line. (this can continue on and on.... cams, head work, etc. but money doesn't continue on). and that (1st post) is what i ended up with. 400kw would be great... i only had about 200kw before the build. so would my fuel pump be upto the 400kw or so? cheers.

i know there is a thread on this... i had a read but can't find my exact setup. just curious... cheers. Car: 89 R32 GT-R Mods: Fresh engine - -CP Forged pistons -ARP Head studs -Metal head gasket -Stock rods -stock cams -ACL bearings -full reco head (all stock) -N1 Oil Pump -New water pump -stock fpr and fuel rail -BOSCH 023 pump -Garrett TO4z (.84 rear housing i think) -Turbosmart 50mm Ext. gate -Power FC -Z32 AFM's -Blitz 700cc injectors -HKS Pod's -stock cooler with HKS piping -3 1/2" exhaust from turbo to rear cannon. a rough guess anyone? cheers. - Elec boost controller to come.

as title states. cheers people.

i have been concerned about the stock plump back bov's being dodgy... mainly cause i have run out of ideas.. how can i check to see if this is the problem? pull them out and block the pipes?

maybe it is still the afm's as i don't know if the new ones are 100% (when i drove it) - it seems to clear up at various rev ranges but when throttle is backed off it dies and splutters, and missfires at idle as per usual

oh forgot to mention cleaned the aac valve already... plugs are BCP7ES Gapped to .8

Would a dodgy TPS cause any issue like this?

Thanks for the reply My head was completely overhauled cleaned and with all new gear fitted (bar stock cams). cheers.

Igniter pack - known working one Coilpacks - known working ones Plugs new Fuel regulator - known working one Injectors - new Z32 AFM's - Used (unknown condition) Replaced all hose clamps - New checked all possible air leaks. new power fc (used) new o2 sensors (new) New temp sensors (new) New ignition wiring harness. (new) cas - known working one

To save reading previous posts... this is where i'm at. I need some more ideas please... Problem: Missfire What happends: runs fine for about 5-6minutes (only when started from dead cold, once its a little warm it missfires every start), then starts to missfire, if you give it a few revs and let the throttle off it dies for a split second and then the revs go up to 2000rpm (at idle) then slowly come back down to 1200rpm. (missfire the whole time) replaced: Igniter pack Coilpacks Plugs Fuel regulator Injectors AFM Replaced all hose clamps checked all possible air leaks. new power fc new o2 sensors New temp sensors New ignition wiring harness. the engine is fresh and has had all new gaskets fitted etc. Any more help with this would be great. I'n my head i feel its a vaccume leak issue still... what else would cause the problems mentioned?

would any dodgy temprature sensors trigger it? as i can start it fron dead cold and it runs perfect for around 6mins. then it starts to miss (igniter still cold at this point also)

cheers GMB, trying to get hold of one today but i'll let u know how i go

apparently rb20 igniter pack could be the same.... maybe someone has one i can buy?

$50 to borrow one for 15mins? anyone?

need an ignition module to try and fix my missfire issue happy to buy or borrow one if you have one. cheers.

i have checked for vaccume leaks and also replaced all hose clamps... i wouldn't have thought that would cause it to missfire... yeah i had trouble with it starting... had no power to coilpacks..(all sorted)

STILL HAVE A MISSFIRE!!! I have now done: new plugs (3 sets) coilpacks (3 sets) new coilpack wiring harness New injectors New Power FC New Z32 AFM's Crank angle sensor

no. i do that how?..

when cold it idles at 1100rpm and doesn't miss... then about 30-40 seconds later it starts...the hotter it gets th worse it gets.. (sounds like dodgey coil-packs but i've changed them and they wouldn't make the revs rise to 1500rpm at idle) anymore ideas?

no error codes anymore... #55 (all good). the misfire became less when i fixed an injector plug up (was still missing). after driving it a bit the miss gets worse and it starts to idle at 1500 rpm again. and goes up and down from 1400-1500. given up.

fits snug in there..plus its held in by the 3 bolts

i have 700cc injectors to go in, and plan to get a power fc, but i wont spend the coin on a power fc incase i need the cash to fix whats casuing the misfire. so just want to get that sorted first. don't think the afm's are too close if they were any further from the turbo they would be outside of the car. i can barely fit a thin hks filter between the afm's and the washer bottle and passenger headlight. i just went and checked for error codes again and got: #21 (ignition signal system) my manual says: ignition signal is not generated continuously even though crank angle sensor is entered (dissconection between power transistor and control unit). i check voltages to the coil packs and igniter but how do i check the sginal wire?