rb26dett

check engine light could also mean injectors maxxing out. think there's a whole process to let ur car learn to idle, with/without air-con and defroster.

sucking noise would just imply spooling. you'd have to listen intently to pick out the metallic noise but it'd be there.

easy way to do it is if on boost you hear a sort of metallic whining noise, which would be the turbine rubbing the housing. or lots of white smoke from exhaust. if ur turbo's really going, then get a new one.

think the v spec 2's and m spec were banged into the cars' bumpers from the factory. too much theft of stickers.

making it sway side to side is not done by the brakes. it's done with the steering wheel. braking is used to transfer weight, putting weight on the front allows front to turn in, loosening back for oversteer situation. the left/right/left flick is the feint drift, but i'm assuming you want to link 2 corners together using the flick, thus, when you exit the 1st say right hander and the left is coming towards you, you could use the suspension rebound from the 1st right hander to induce oversteer for the 2nd corner. clutch kick is not a lousy technique. it's used to overcome understeer and if you'd download some jap drift videos, you will hear the obvious rise in rpm when they dive into a drift, which is the clutch kick. locking up the wheels, is again, another technique used to drift, which is called shift lock. using excessive downshit without heel toe to balance the car causes compression lockup which locks the rears. there are drift setups for cars, but i assume these cars won't be driven on a daily basis. excessive camber and toe out would not be a good thing for a car to have on the highway.

does it look like a wire ending with a transparent thing? i also thought that was for amps or some sort of electrical thing, but my mechanic told me it was the seatbelt tensioner thing. it tightens the seatbelt when ur body moves forward too fast, e.g. accident situation to stop ur face from being rearranged by the steering assembly.

gold is the factory option. there were other colours produced but most customers opted for the special champagne gold as the colour was produced only for this model. i have also seen this v spec 2, not sure if it was a nur. was an asian guy driving it. didn't see any license plate on it tho. not even a dealer's plate.

not sure but i think nismo made it for the 400r which if i'm right could bolt onto the 33s. but i wun bother...dun think u'd be doing 200+km/h that often rite?

if you're talking about the rear carbon diffuser on the 34, it is to smooth air flow through the bottom rear of the car, which will improve handling and affects the way the rear of the car moves at high speed. i'm sure you could make one, but will be skeptical as to how effective it will be, namely cos you don't have a wind tunnel to test the aerodynamics.

wouldn't a spin out be preferred over ploughing straight into a lamp post?

i have entire clutch assembly plus flywheel. changed to hks twin so selling mine. contact me if interested. 0403 657 891

would a gtr need 2 or is 1 enough??

if ur tank's on empty, could the fuel have sloshed to a side n starved the engine?

why would you wanna promote understeer? wun that be more dangerous than oversteer in a high speed turn in? wouldn't more grip in the front turn the car in better?

my take up is pretty far off the ground, but i understand that this is adjustable?? correct me if i'm wrong... 1st time i tried it i was like...wat's wrong it's so soft...then it wheelspinned n stalled n i was like...oh my...wrong clutch choice..

i very much doubt that they do...but if i'm not wrong i think the stock boxes had a ram air, which means there is a scoop for air

i got all my parts overseas and brought them back. hell cheaper. eg. my twin plate hks brand new about 2100 and hks gtr front pipe about 550...compare that to the bd4's ones...

hey VspecV just wanna know, did ur hks clutch feel soft at all? mine's really soft...and i mean soft.... the stock clutch was much heavier than this one, but the bite in this clutch is mad....no slip as yet...

i tend to stick to hks. i've got 2 apex'i stuff in my car, but that's becos my tuner doesn't know how to use the hks equivalent, namely power fc (F Con Pro V) and AVC-R (EVC-R).

i'm still lost. i tried it but the car just jumped really hard in front and stalled...

the os-giken would be managed by a female i suppose. all os-gikens are made to drive on-road. whereas the hks ones are a race clutch. my mechanic told me after i put it in and i could have had the os-giken one for the same price. there's no play in the clutch i've got at all. u either stall, burnout or just shudder while moving off in 1st. i'd think u should get the os-giken one. btw these twins come with flywheels, but i dun think they're much lighter, i have seen no difference in rpm surge. then again, too light a flywheel and u'd have to rev ur car too hard on a hill start.

how would the car continue travelling?? if the accelerator is not applied, wun that mean that the car wun have sufficient power to drive the car? wun the engine stall?? and if it stalled, wun the engaged gear stop the car from moving??

the os giken one is a sprung centred clutch. i think gtst-vspec from perth is running an os giken twin. i'm running a hks twin. u'd wanna stay away from this one. it's solid centred, no play at all in it.

i think it's the factory fuel cut. stops boost from going too high to extend turbo life. get a fuel cut defender.

fuel pump?? when u turn left the fuel sloshes to the right, could be fuel pump getting old.