dan.1337

H3C

taken from the r32 pics thread. i took my personalised plates off as i almost sold my car, but at the last minute decided against it. don't think i can part with it yet.

Just wondering if there are any workshops/retrimmers who will retrim an oem steering wheel and gear knob in Melbourne?

Looking for an excellent r32 steering wheel and gear knob to replace my shoddy ones. contact me via pm if you have either or both.

Quick shoot done the other night. Totally underexposed. Still figuring out how to light a black car at night running around with a single flash.

I'm interested in the motor without the gearbox and turbo. PM me with a price. I'm in Melbourne.

thanks for the opinions guys. like the rb25, i probably wouldn't go down the SR20 route. i just want to keep it plain and simple with as little hassles as possible. are there any workshops that would be recommended to do the work (well) at a reasonable price? i'll have to give them a call or drop in to talk to them about it first. not fond of being screwed around with anymore car stuff by mechanics.

This post might be more helpful if it were in the NSW section?

I have an r32 gts-t which has lately given me headaches. To cut a long story short, an engine bearing is starting to spin which means death is not far away. I've spent a lot of hard earned dollars on replacing many bits and pieces and believe that everything is running well except for this issue with the block. My question is, what do you think is the logical thing to do? I can either sell my car at a giveaway price with all the supporting mods with close to 200rwkw, or replace the rb20 block and head and just transfer all the stuff across to it. I love my car to bits, but it has been giving me a lot of headaches lately because of this engine. Having this issue lingering in the back of my mind puts me off driving the car when I really should be driving it...cos i enjoy driving it. I'll admit that I don't have the skill to do a swap myself, but i have some friends who have done swaps on other cars (fwd) who are willing to help. I want to believe that a swap is a good idea and selling it is a bad idea, but maybe some opinions will straighten out my thinking. Please help provide some opinions, options and general costs for doing a swap...or not doing it and cutting my losses as it is. Any constructive opinion is welcome. Thanks! also, swapping to an rb25 is out of the question for me. Main mods: Spitfire coilpacks (new) HKS 2530 Denso 550cc injectors Link ECU Bosch 040

It also allows u to brake less and for the engine to help brake. imo u'd do it more when doing spirited runs thru the twisties when u want to downshift and not lock the back wheels because u didn't rev match.

Would the speedo cable be suspect in my case? This happens 80% of the time when driving. My speedo needle MOVES, but it moves not in accordance to the speed i'm actually doing. So for example, i accelerate to what 60kmh should be and its hovering around the 180-190+ mark. If i do 100, it moves all the way round and stops at the bottom of the rest pin. Once in a while it'll go back to normal and show the correct speed. Then 5 mins later it's doing crazy stuff all over again. I also have no idea how to get the cluster out to check it. Is there a tutorial on this?

Get the GTR. I want to sell my gts-t to get a GTR.

HAHAHAHAH classic!

ah that's not my car...that's shanef's. mine is the ticking description coming from the yellow circle. i dunno how to upload sound.

eh? now i'm a bit lost =S

thanks for all the help guys! hopefully my mechanic has made an error in judgement. i have aftermarket Denso 550cc injectors in there too. will attempt to clean the AAC valve on the weekend to stop the hunt on idle

whoa that is pretty loud. if i'm not mistaken, ur referring to the thing that sounds like someone is tapping their fingers on a piece of sheet metal in some sort of tune? edit: i just went out to have a listen. it sounds like a fast consistent ticking sound (not very loud, my phone couldn't capture the sound) and it doesn't really sound like it's coming from the rear bottom of the engine either. it sounds like it's coming more from this part of the engine: when i rev it up and take my foot off the accel, the ticking stops and restarts on idle.

I'm going to have to call around a few workshops and wreckers over the next week and was wondering how reliable is the "Local Wreckers And Workshops" considering that it's coming up to two years old. Would there be a consensus that all of the workshops and wreckers within it are all reputable and won't try and screw people around? Not looking for slandering, just don't want my time wasted if bad experiences have been had before. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=13305

I'm in exactly the same situation as you. Very confused and dazed about the what options i have. Rebuild? Replace the rb20? Swap with rb25? Anyway, have a read of the thread below as it will give u a different perspective on swapping with an rb25. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=179649 After reading that, i'm one step further away from going down the rb25 route and one step closer to rebuilding or getting another rb20 in mine...afterall i have all the supporting bits and pieces for my rb20 already.

this noise you've mentioned, is it meant to be loud and obvious or quite quiet?? also, when a bearing is spun, does the car start to lose compression and hunt on idle like when the AAC valve is blocked?

he said it's right down the very back and i can't hear it from inside the car, but the motor is losing comp from it. if it were to be rebuilt, the engine would need to come out, crank remachined and all this other stuff. basically it was cheaper and less work to get another motor in. i can't hear any obvious rattle, but then again i'm n00b and don't know what to keep an ear out for. i'm thinking of getting a second opinion to be sure to be sure before jumping into anymore expensive work.

I still don't understand how my mechanic knows its a spun bearing. The car doesn't seem to drive any differently and i can't seem to pick anything that sounds different either. Is there a sure fire way to tell without stripping down the engine?

wtb rb25det block doesn't need turbo but will probably need loom. i'd prefer melbourne. Daniel 0402502537 [email protected] PM

racepace is nice, but if you don't own an rb26 i think its pretty hard to get work done on your car. it seemed to me that they preferred to work on rb26's which is unfortunate as they're a friendly bunch of ppl there who seem to konw their stuff.

thanks for that i'll find out tomorrow first thing in the morning whether i should drive my car to work (50km round trip) from my mechanic. if he says that its better not to, i'll see if the motor can still be saved without too much of a headache =| what a moneypit...