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dan.1337

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Everything posted by dan.1337

  1. dan.1337
    Headed back to Winton this weekend and managed a time of 1:35.74. Was unfortunately held up in some traffic on a couple of faster laps, so my 1:34 goal will be for my next outing there. Currently my car still has: 257rwkw on E85 BC Racing coilovers Front camber arms Hankook z221 semi slicks in 255 width Forgot to press record for my PB session, so now I don't have any video of that lap =( Here's one from Sept 2015 with a time of 1:37.89. Same setup but with 5 year old RS55S tyres in 235 width: https://youtu.be/nPKGlBA21lk
  2. dan.1337
    $1100 ONO Wheels are off the car and in storage.
  3. dan.1337
    Price drop to $1200 ONO
  4. dan.1337
    Good for someone looking for a brand new set of tyres and wants to get some cheap wheels with them too.
  5. dan.1337
    I have a set of Rays Volk F-Zero Challenge wheels for sale with brand new Federal RSR-R tyres already fitted and balanced. Wheels are forged and extremely light. 2x 17x8 + 38. Tyres are 235/40/17 2x 17x9 + 40. Tyres are 255/40/17 $1300 ONO pick up in Melbourne
  6. dan.1337
    I run a 9" R33 GTR wheel (+30) with 255 z221 on the front with no issues. Guards have been rolled though. I'm not sure if a 10.5" +12 wheel with 265s will fit on the front of an R33 GTST with some serious guard work?
  7. dan.1337
    Shouldn't have any issues. I use them over a set of 324mm GTR rotors with caliper spacer.
  8. dan.1337
    I have a set of Volk F-Zero Challenge wheels for sale with brand new Federal RSR-R tyres. Tyres have only done 10km. 2x 17x8 + 38. Tyres are 235/40/17 2x 17x9 + 40. Tyres are 255/40/17 Fits GST-T's beautifully. $1350 ONO pick up in Melbourne
  9. dan.1337
    From what I understand, the HC+ and HC800 are supposed to be the same. From the PMU site, HC-CS are one step down from the HC+ http://www.project-mu.co.jp/en/products/pad_hccs.html
  10. dan.1337
    Since the original post, I've gone to HC+, to HC800, then back to the HC+. Pretty sure my rotors were the same throughout (GTR sized DBA4000) The HC800 are supposed to be the same compound as the HC+. The HC+ is made in Japan and HC800 made in Thailand, but I found that the HC800 wore a lot quicker. I prefer the pedal feel of the PMU's over the DS2500's I had previously as it's more progressive. The DS2500's were pretty bitey.
  11. dan.1337
    I got all my hoses and fittings from VPW. Hasn't given me any grief in two years of running them. http://vpw.com.au/
  12. dan.1337
    A lot of guys on here track their 33's without oil issues. We just overfill the sump by 1L. It's really only RB26's that have oil starvation problems.
  13. dan.1337
    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'd been meaning to pull out the turbo timer for a long time and this was a better time than ever to do it. Was piss easy (not sure why I didn't try earlier), and now everything is rosy again. Car turns right off and the immobiliser is back online.
  14. dan.1337
    Great, thanks for this. It's a branded turbo timer (Apexi from memory) so I'll try the above tonight.
  15. dan.1337
    In that case, I didn't pump the brakes or turn on any lights. I have pulled the battery out of the car completely since then to put it on a charger though, so it should be well and truly dead by now. Because I used a jump pack there was no spark. I connected the leads then turned the pack to "on", then turned it off after it started beeping because the leads were crossed. I have a PFC and will get my mechanic to check it out if I can't find the cause myself.
  16. dan.1337
    Potentially an ECU issue, but the engine still runs like usual when it's on? I didn't hit the brakes or anything. It was completely drained when I got to it as it was just the little reading light on.
  17. dan.1337
    Been meaning to do that since I bought the car but haven't got around to it. It's always been set to 0 seconds so the car switches itself off straight away anyway.
  18. dan.1337
    I left an interior light on in my R33 which unfortunately drained my month old battery completely. I've jump started it a hundred times before on my old battery as it died every few days, but this time I was careless and hooked up the wrong cables on the jump pack (black-red, red-black instead of black-black, red-red). I recognised this error after my jump pack started beeping at me, so I swapped the cables around, jump started it, and took it for a drive. When I turned it off, the car just kept running. All electronics and the turbo timer was shut off but the engine continued to run. Since then, I've had to use my fuel pump kill switch to turn my car off. I checked all my fuses (bonnet, cabin, boot) and none appear to be blown. Something else I've noticed is that my central locking using my remote still works, but the immobiliser "beep" doesn't sound anymore when I lock and unlock my car. I disconnected the battery for an hour yesterday but it didn't seem to help, so I pulled the battery out completely and have put it on a charger to pump it right up. Do you guys have any ideas my engine might not be switching off when I turn the rest of the car off? Unfortunately Google and search hasn't helped much this time around.
  19. dan.1337
    Yup, it opens around 80C. I see temps around the 80-85C mark in summer with just normal suburban driving. Temps go up to around 110-115C on track with mild (~20-25C) weather.
  20. dan.1337
    I have a Greddy/GREX sandwich plate and have the oil temp and pressure sensors stuck in there. It might be easiest (and best) to sell your sandwich plate and invest in one with pre-tapped sensor holes. Do it once, do it right!
  21. dan.1337
    I had a similar issue when I first installed my oil cooler. What I eventually found was that my temperature sensor was on the wrong side of the sandwich plate. I initially had it on the side after the cooler, when it should have been on the hot engine side. Reason it should be on the hot side is that you can see how much your oil has cooked after coming out of the engine.
  22. dan.1337
    How many cars will be on track for the timed session?
  23. dan.1337
    Supp Regs are down on the CAMS entry portal
  24. dan.1337
    Sold
  25. dan.1337
    What was interesting was that the passenger side also cracked in the same session. Was pretty lucky to not have anyone in front of me on full brakes at the time! Yup, I went in mid 2014 and got a time of 1:30.1862. Car was on street tyres at the time. Looking into a brake upgrade now along with venting. I have a photo somewhere of my pads which were completely burnt on a different occasion. Will look into this! I'd like to get back to Sandown after not going for 18 months to see how I go with a bit more seat time under my belt. That's probably what I'm most glad for. Single car accidents are bad, but taking out someone else is much worse!
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