dan.1337

Are you willing to separate just the passenger side?

Demand for these come and goes. I saw a bunch of R33 PFCs sell for $800-900 not long ago, so this is a great price. GLWS

Thanks! I have Cusco camber arms and an ebay HICAS lock bar. Fronts are running -3 camber, rears around -1. Toe slightly out and slightly in on the rear. Standard caster adjustments. I don't actually remember the exact settings as it was done manually by my tyre guy who doesn't use a printer.

Bought my '96 GTS-T around April 2013 with the intention of separating my track and daily cars. It was near standard when I bought it so it didn't take too much work to get it up to a RWC condition. It did come with underbody neons and a crap stereo which was quickly ripped out, and a cat back exhaust and no-name pod filter. This was taken on the day I got the RWC: First time out on track was at very wet Haunted Hills hill climb in May 2013. Being completely stock, the car rolled around a lot. I was also thrown around from side to side in the stock seat which was a real pain. Final lap time was 70.64s on a wet track. Took it to the RTR dyno and it came out at 136.2rwkw Took it to Winton in June 2013 and achieved a pretty mediocre 1.48.70. Car was still stock at this stage and run on street tyres. More Haunted Hills in its stock form in October 2013 At this stage, I was just trying to learn how the car drove. Unfortunately I started to get some massive exhaust manifold leaks, boost leaks, the 17 year old radiator cracked, and stock turbo was dying. Decided that since a fair amount of its guts would be out, I'd do some basic modifications to the engine. I wanted this car to be as reliable as possible as I don't have a tow car and would have to drive it to and from all the tracks. I've also gone in with a "do it once, do it right" mentality as I've had too many issues in the past with going half assed and having things break. Chucked in a big Mishimoto radiator, 3" dump pipe, high flow cat, fuel pump, 480cc injectors, Blitz return flow intercooler, Power FC, and a small Kinugawa turbo. Got a healthy 244.9rwkw at 17psi Chucked in a proper seat just before my next track day Track day at Winton in November 2013 and ran it at 11psi (~200rwkw). Still standard suspension (check out the body roll below), street tyres, and brakes. Found that when hot, car was misfiring like crazy and realised that my coil packs had given way. Day ended with a 1:45.03 Replaced the coil packs with Yellow Jackets which unfortunately continued misfiring (but much less than the broken ones), so I ended up getting a set of OEMs which has been great ever since. Mid 2014 I chucked in a set of BC Racing ER series coilovers in 12/10 kg f/r. Found a cheap second hand Kaaz 1.5 way diff which went in as the stock viscous was as good as an open diff. Also put in a dog bone to fit GTR rotors. Did a bunch more events like DECA, HH, Winton, and PI to build up more track time in the car. Times were slowly improving with experience. Had a weld in half cage installed for the harness bar and some ROPS PI day with a 2:02 on wet track with street tyres: In 2015 I went to E85 with a small bump in power to 257rwkw and more torque still at 17psi. Again, reliability was key here and I think E85 is best for boosted engines living their lives at the top of their rev range. Chucked on a circa 2010 set of 235/45/17 RE55S semis in SR2 compound for my first foray into semis. Times started to come down to 1:37.89 before my brakes blew up. Had a theoretical in the 1:36 range, but that's for next time. Rotor failed coming into turn 1 on my first hot lap. Lucky nobody was in front of me so I was able to just roll off the track and drive back to the pits. PB lap: http://youtube.com/watch?v=nPKGlBA21lk (not sure how to embed) Will need to improve air flow around brakes for the next track day. My aim is to drop into the 1:34 region with no aero at Winton in its current setup and newer semis. Thanks for reading. That's nearly 3 years in one post!

Yup, he does. Check out his site for the most up to date pricing: http://www.autosphere.com.au/c/4485118/1/18-tyres.html

Spoke with the DBA rep and he said that they're still continuing their investigations with metallurgical testing being conducted now. It appears that it could be a one off incident with my rotors as they haven't seen anything like it before. I also received the replacement set of rotors, which I have put up for sale as I'll be looking into a different braking package as I get faster around the track. When I hear back on what their engineers say, I'll post it up here.

I have a mate who imports the Z221 235/45/17 in soft for $400 a corner. PM me if interested!

Selling a pair of brand new DBA 4000 T3 front rotors in 324mm diameter - GTR fitment Both rotors are still boxed and have not been opened. They are Australian made in case there were concerns that these may have come out of another factory. Only selling due to change in plans for my braking needs. $420 pick up from Collingwood, VIC PM me if interested

Nope! Contacted them two weeks ago asking about any results from their internal investigations and to follow up the replacement rotors but have had radio silence. Will follow up again.

I think that you should move down this list depending on budget and application: 1. Two piece floating rotor (PFC, Project Mu, etc) 2. Two piece rotor (DBA5000, etc) 3. One piece rotor with uni directional vanes (DBA4000, RDA, etc) All will be suitable for light track work.

I asked him to give me an update after they complete their investigations as I'm pretty curious to know why they failed, so will post the results once I hear back.

Quick update: A DBA rep came out to have a look at the rotors today, then took them away for further analysis, and will send me a new set of the same rotors even though the others were well past their warranty period and I have no proof of purchase. He did say that they have never seen the rotor separate from the hub before, so they wanted to investigate it further internally. Overall happy with their customer service.

The PFC stuff did cross my mind, but it's just so damn expensive. I'm a budget racer so don't think I want to drop that sort of money on a set of rotors! I'm considering just going for RDA blanks. Expansion and contraction should be better without the slots, they are cheap to run, and more surface area for the pad. I've send them photos of the rotor and my phone number which they requested, but that's all unfortunately.

That is expensive. Like others have said, just walk away and let him sell it elsewhere. FYI, I bought mine for $5800 2.5 years ago completely stock as a rock. It cost me about $700 to get it RWC, so $6500 in total.

Thanks for all the replies. I'm dealing with DBA on the matter now and will let you guys know the outcome after they digest the info which has been requested. I'm not expecting a replacement set or anything like that from DBA. I'd rather that they can find out what the issue is and tell me if it's the way I drove, a bad batch, or something else so that it can be rectified and doesn't happen to anyone else. I was lucky that nobody was in front of me at the time who was also in the braking zone, and also lucky that there was heaps of space for me to run off into. I carry a spare set of rotors when tracking so was able to also swap them out pretty easily and drive home.

Rotors were around 2 years old and have done about 6 track days and around 2000km of street driving. The rotors actually have very minimal wear, but started to get hairline cracks which is pretty common for tracked rotors. Using Project Mu HC+ pads with ATE Super Blue fluid and semi slicks. I did two warm up laps at around 60% of normal pace, then 80%, so they would have been pretty warm by the time I hit the brakes. Not really confident that DBA will get back to me with any sort of resolution in my favour, but I've written the rotors off and will go for something else in the future. The 4000 series are too expensive to run for such a short time. I'd rather go for a cheaper RDA and swap them out more often after they start to get hairline cracks.

I was planning on turning it into a clock since the centre has been pretty nicely sheared away, but getting it front of DBA may be a better idea. There was no noticeable noise as I was coming hot down the straight, put my foot down and it pretty much got destroyed straight away. It happened after doing two warm up laps where I tried to avoid using the brakes too much so I could keep the brakes warm, but not hot.

I've read of cracking issues with these rotors, but has anyone else had the rotor completely separate from the hub with their DBA4000 T3 rotors? I was punting it down the main straight at Winton on the weekend, put my foot on the brakes at around 180kmh, then bang! Straight off into the grass because I wasn't able to stop.

I would personally only go OEM

These were the replacements for the RE55S If they're no good for you, let me know where you can get them cheap and I'll take them!

Date: 13/09/15 Car Make and Model: R33 GTS-T Circuit Name: Winton Lap time: 1:37.89 Timing method: Natsoft Modifications Engine: RB25 with PowerFC, Kinugawa something something turbo Power: 260rwkw on E85 Suspension: BC Racing ER series Tyres: RE55S SR2 compound, 235/45/17 Brakes: GTR rotors, stock calipers, Project Mu HC+ pads Body weight: Stock with half cage and minus rear seat

I'm running them in a 10/12 combo on my r33 which sees 90% of its life at the track. They feel great on track and are not to stiff for street driving. They are stiff enough for me to not need to run a thicker sway bar and still not get any roll.

This is another option to retrim your wheel: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456696-living-with-an-r33-gtst/?p=7542197

Sold

Price drop to $200 for the lot