dan.1337
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Everything posted by dan.1337
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Forgot about these. Bump! -
Sinking Clutch Pedal Overnight
dan.1337 replied to Kiwi_Phil's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I have nearly the same issue so will follow this thread for solutions! -
Make sure you post a pic of the coffee table when complete!
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Actually think I (Daniel Lee) fall into the mod 2wd as I have three fuel system mods...not that it matters as I'm not participating in the championship...
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Had a blast and a an automatic PB of 1:30.18 as it was my first time out at Sandown. Thanks for a great lunch and chats with several of the other members.
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Looking forward to Saturday!
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It should all just be plug and play
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I'm putting my entry form in now. Unfortunately having trouble finding my SAU card to enter my member number into the form.
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4x Bridgestone RE55S semi slicks in 235/45/17, SR2 compound (the compound everyone wants!) These are around 80% tread as you can see from the pictures. Currently wrapped in industrial glad wrap in an underground storage locker. $800 ONO Pick up from Box Hill
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Is this to fit your suspension? Buy and fit? Alignment?
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It's a weld in half cage (don't think the bolt in was a different price). Mine came out to be a bit over $1k (inc install) as I also got them to tap the holes for 6 point harnesses in both the driver and passenger seats, and had them paint the cage. It can be upgraded to a 6 point later. Got it from Greg at Fabraications in Melbourne. He measures and bends for every car, so it fits perfectly. Don't actually have any pictures of the cage from inside the car. I can take some on the weekend and post or email them to you if you prefer.
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I looked into harness bars about 9 months ago and ended up getting a half cage with harness bar. I found that a good harness bar was going to be $600-700, and a half cams approved cage with paperwork was a bit over $900 from Fabraications. For the extra couple of hundred I also have roll over protection and a stiffer chassis. All my squeaks and rattles have gone. It feels like a brand new car!
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Yup, because I want to know what temp oil is going into the engine right?
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My temp probe is in the sandwich plate. To give you an idea of the temps, I blocked off the oil cooler with race tape on my way back from PI to Melbourne the other week. Ambient temp was around 10C and the oil temp was around 80C on the freeway. The race tape got blown off (was pissing down) while driving at 100kmh (3000RPM-ish) and my oil temp plummeted down to 30-40C in a matter of a couple of minutes. I'm pretty sure the oil temp prong is working as oil temps sit on around 80C with the cooler blocked, and was around the 120C mark on track with no cooler. As mentioned earlier, I'm still running the factory water/oil exchanger so I'm still very confused as to why the thermostat isn't regulating the temps properly...
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I'm running Royal Purple Gearmax 75W-90 (Shockproof light wasn't available from my supplier when I needed to change) in a nearly exclusively track car. Has been pretty good on cold mornings and at the track. Have noticed a slight crunch from 4-5 once in a while, but that could be me not depressing the clutch fully too. Will probably try Shockproof light next time.
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Is that an oil cooler between your headlights? What a great fit! Is it off the shelf or custom?
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Does your oil temp run cool on cold days even through that small gap?
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Thanks for the feedback so far. Pulled out the thermostat to have a look last night and couldn't find anything wrong. The pin inside isn't stuck (was able to move it with a flat screwdriver). I was using a 10w-50 oil but have just put Penrite 10w-40 racing in, so hopefully it's a bit thinner at lower operating temps than the 50 weight. Still using the factory oil/water exchanger as I didn't want to tinker with this and run a pure oil cooler setup. Water temps are around 90C on track but can't remember what they are on street, I think around 80-90C according the the PFC hand controller. Some pics of the adapter I took yesterday:
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I have a Greddy/Grex thermostatic oil block adapter hooked up to a Mishimoto 19 row oil cooler in my R33 GTS-T. The oil cooler is located in the drivers wheel well with ventilation cut into the splash guard to pull air through it. The issue I'm finding is that my oil temps are very low. On track they sit at 85-90C (previously 120-130C), and on the road in winter they are sitting anywhere between 20-40C (previously 80-90C) with ambient air temps of 8-10C. I paid extra for a thermostatic adapter so I wouldn't have these issues, but have a feeling it could be stuck open. Does anyone have any ideas on how I can get my oil temps higher or test the adapter? I don't want to make covers for the cooler as the adapter should be doing this job.
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Your 2-way diff may be making your car oversteer more than what you want
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Bump! Still looking for this
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Wrecking R33 All Parts Now Available
dan.1337 replied to perry_r33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Will you sell the brake fluid filler cap? -
$60 for a 5L bottle, negotiable if you buy more than one bottle. Best stuff on the market as it's 100% shear free when used at high RPM, high heat applications. Even better than Motul 300v as that's not shear free, and this comes with added zinc to lower wear. Technical details here: http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=3&id_products=278 Pick up from Abbotsford, VIC. PM for details.
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After this part: Let me know if you have one via PM. Based in Melbourne. Happy for it to come from interstate as it's small enough to post.
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Wheels and tyres sold! Front calipers still available. Price drop to $100
