simpletool

Indeed. Have my R33 back on the road after 5 weeks. Don't see anywhere near as many on the roads as even 2 or 3 years ago.

I've look a few times and it would appear there is no front fender braces for R33. Pity.

You need to look at stronger valve springs at those boost levels. That's about the only hardware that really needs attention assuming the tune is right. As for driving before tune. If you have the same injectors and AFM then it should run fine under vacuum and very low boost (1 or 2psi) .

Thread revival. I don't suppose anyone has a review of the new MCA range now they've had them fitted? I'm looking at MCA performance for R33 but the 10/4kg rates are making me think otherwise. These used to be 10/7 when they were reviewed here last. The front to rear difference has me concerned. 4kg is about the same as whiteline springs while the front is more than double. I just can't get my head around how these won't understeer like crazy. Shockworks have a 8/6 as standard package but no stock for 6 weeks.

Had a lot of experience with RB25 between stock and exedy. I'd go Exedy everytime unless you do nothing but cruise. Exedy is 6.7 and stock is 9.8 or some such. Most of that difference is rotational inertia (ie. depends on distribution of mass from centre). Anyway it will make the car more responsive and the lower the gear the bigger the difference. There is a small reduction in inertia when taking off and hill starts but nothing you won't learn to ignore. My exedy has the spiral centre for cooling the clutch so with those you also notice a turbine type air sound while revving.

I got a new box landed for $2100 from RHD about 2 years ago! It comes in a nice Nissan box with rope grab handles at each end and full of oil

Yeah I can still see them clearly by clicking. Those pics would have been on my old computer which was thrown out years ago. Sorry FWIW the only thing I had to remove was the starter motor and I replaced all the hoses under the plenum, the one to the turbo behind the plenum, the hoses to the heater hose valve, the valve body on the firewall, the hoses from the valve body to the heater core. so yeah every hose. For most hoses I used universal hoses with 90deg and 135deg bends from Repco/supercheap. Used genuine hoses from block to heater (4 hoses) and I think one of the 135deg bends up near the front of the plenum near the fuel pressure reg.

I would have thought the obvious problem to the understeer was the front sway bar was harder than the rear (stock S14)? Or am I missing something, is an S14 bar hard or even softer than stock R33? surely it is much softer than whatever diameter whiteline you have - consider diameter^4 for rate? Obviously you first need to put a bit more pressure in the tyres. And you can quite easily try bit more pressure in the rear than front ~say 3psi to try and dial out understeer. After that put on a stock front bar. Or put on a whiteline rear bar on (but I understand the advice from MCA say harder bars don't provide more grip > because they tune what they sell with stock sway bars).

Yep. Do a compression test. If it passes ok and has consistently cy between cylinders then start tuning. Stock internal R33 RB25DET is one of the best bang for buck tuning engines you can get. Gearbox will be fine but throw some new oil in. Flush the coolant, get a good radiator, keep the stock shroud. Flush the oil with diesel oil (not fuel) and put some good oil in. Then proceed.

18x10 +18 is a sweet spot but obviously depends on personal pref. Sent from my SM-N910G using SAU Community mobile app

PWR 55mm one in the for sale section atm.

Why not PWR? They are the choice of major motorsport teams. Also how much glycol are you using? The less the better for cooling. You really just want anti-corrosion and some gycol as lubricant. And adding some panels/shrouding will definitely help.

Double post

Going to Costco for a 12pack carton of microwave popcorn. Please discuss Full Monty v twin plate v stage 4 button.

Probably timing belt since that gets whiney and noisy if: 1- the belt is a gates racing or similar. 2 - is too tight. 3 - probably both. Take off the top timing belt cover (after you carefully remove the CAS) and tell us what you see. I'm guessing a blue belt.

If the fuel pump is the walbro 430lph then that is most of your problem. Try running less boost (0.6 bar), cleaning the maf, check for vacuum leaks, etc. But if the fuel pump is too big the regulator won't be able to adjust the pressure low enough.

Yeah I've got an R33 with Z32 and I can never get the acceleration adjusted consistently. Seems I just have to put up with rich mixtures under hard acceleration.

As above. Your fuel consumption seems reasonable. Having it too lean on cruise can be counter-productive. Sure it theoretically would use less fuel but then you use more throttle and end up in the next load part of the map, which uses more fuel anyway. (It does help to reduce pumping losses on a high efficiency engine but we're talking 1% and and old RB and ECU ain't going to make that happen). OK every car is different since it has different parts and have difference sensors with different calibrations but...... From the look of your tune I wouldn't worry about the cruise part too much. I'd be looking at the transition area 80 to 140kpa. You're probably spending a lot of time in that area with a heavy Stagea to get it moving. Personal preference is that area is too lean. You should aim for 12.5:1, not 13.5. By being too lean the car is not responsive and makes less power and you end up using more throttle and hence more boost than you need. So you drive it no boost, push throttle, 3 or 4 psi and uses heaps of fuel just to move. Seems to be too rapid to drop timing between 80kpa and 93kpa. I have 31-33 degrees of timing at 100kpa between 2800rpm and 4400rpm. The timing drops faster after 3 or 4psi (120kpa). I still have around 27 degrees at 130kpa. This is compounding the problem from my point above about AFRs. Again you use too much boost just to move the thing along. But but but, remember I have more fuel in that region as I am already at 12:1 and timing and fuel are linked. Anyway if you are going to change anything make sure you have something to listen for knock and an AFR meter, and you know what you are listening for.

It would fit but that's not the point. It wouldn't run the engine properly, if that's what you want to know.

Fujitsumo twin 2.5" is reasonably quiet. Not that you can buy it new anymore. Because it is twin 2.5" it has good ground clearance. I've had one on the car 7 years and police pull me over probably 10 times in that period, at least. Only comment I have had from them on exhaust is that it sounds "reasonable".

Excellent clutch and strong gearbox. You'll should have no issues. However with only 260rwkw you shouldn't be destroying clutches anyway. So there is something else wrong and I'd guess you either abuse the clutch (ride it) or the push/pull adapter is not fully releasing the clutch. Does it smell when you drive it hard?

Procedure is to clean intake (with upper engine cleaner) THEN replace plugs. For the exact reasons people are posting above. The plugs will covered in crap. Also the AAC valve might be clogged, or could be cleaner, either way it will probably have changed so reset the idle. I had to reset the ECU then the idle when I first used upper engine cleaner.

Gearbox - SOLD Spacers & studs - SOLD

Gearbox out - sale pending.

Time to clear out some parts so I can buy other parts. Location: Brisbane, QLD. Gearbox RB25DET , - $400 F***ing bargain. Still in car. Can test drive until Saturday 8th Nov 12noon (sharp). Then pulling out of car to sell. **Gearbox in working condition, 208,000km. All gears fine, all synchros fine, some bearing noise at idle and slight rattle at 1700rpm. Perfect spare gearbox, probably as good as half the wrecker boxes out there but much much cheaper! Only replacing as I got an amazing deal on a brand new gearbox + tax deduction. Wheels Rays LMGT2 17x8 +32 /17x9 +38 - $500 with tyres. 235/45/17 front 70% worn, 255/40/17 rear Federal 595SS, 5% worn - nearly new. Some gutter marks, outer rim dint on one front wheel. Pics of all 4 wheels can see condition. another f***in bargain considering it includes 2 x almost new rear 255 tyres ! 5 x 114 pattern ECU RB25 socketed with Toshi reflash - $200 Flashed for stock turbo, exhaust, 10psi, etc R&R removed. Got 180rwkw on 10psi with this and FMIC. ECU RB25 stock. - $50 3.5" exhaust - $100 Dint in rear muffler, tiny hole in weld near centre muffler - see pic. Sounded epic but now changed to quiet system. King spring rear pair KDRL-61SP - $50 Excellent match to Tein front springs Tein Spring S-Tech front pair - $50 4.1kg/mm 35mm drop. Excellent match to King springs rear pair. Brake Pads QFM Comp 9 pads DB1170 [NEW] - $70 ($179 new) Fit skyline, S14/S15, WRX. Never fitted. New in box. Spacers 10mm GKTECH hubcentric [NEW] - $30/pair Have 2 pairs. Trial fitted, never driven on, new in box. Wheel studs GKTECH extended [NEW] - $15/pair Never out of boxes. Two boxes, 13.0mm & 14.3mm both 78mm length Centre bearing suit R32/Cefiro [NEW] - $40 ($120 at JustJap). NP-30-6250 In box, never fitted. Told it fit R33 but it doesn't. Water Pump RB30/RB20 Powermax/GMB brand - $20 Doesn't fit RB25 due to missing bolt space, added silicon then removed, never torqued down, never run. Gates timing belt - $50 [virtually new] Fitted, ran for 30mins, took out as too noisy. Replaced with stock nissan belt. Car was near stock and quiet at the time and probably just needed to adjust tension I found out later. AFM RB25 - $20 Series 2 RB25, used. Stock 370cc injectors (x6) - $40 Used. {oops didn't take a pic.} They look normal. RB25DET R33 stock radiator and shroud - FREE ! Radiator condition unknown - hence free, shroud good.