simpletool

Well I've had quite a few incarnations of springs and way bar settings. I also remember what most of them felt like in some detail. So I've put together a simple excel sheet for myself with spring rates and sway bar settings and my feelings for each. I had to make an assumption of sway bar rates so I could add them together with spring rates. I've guessed a stock front sway bar rate of 1.25kg/mm and rear of 1.0kg/mm - I highly doubt this is going to be accurate but I had to start somewhere. ( I've guessed 50% front and 35% rear contribution from the sway bars). As long as I am in the ballpark it helps to add some numbers to subjective feel (balance front to rear, entry oversteer/understeer, etc). From what I've got it seems to make some sense and my observations are somewhat in-line with the numbers.. When I get my 5kg/mm front springs this week then I'll be able to ad them to the list and adjust sway bars accordingly. I'd also like to know the relative effect of roll couple and roll centres front vs rear. ie. Does lowering 10mm all round cause a greater increase in roll couple in the front or rear, or very similar? I realise there are only a couple of people on here who likely know this.

Is this for sale? Is there a price?

That's "flat out" wrong.

Thanks for the heads up ! I'm in Brisbane and will look them up when I need a rebuild/revalve.

Since you are quite close here are 2 obscure parts I want: 1 - The exhaust bracket that comes off the Gearbox mount. 2 - gearbox surround and shifter boot (is it in half decent condition?) You available Sat morning?? If price is OK.

Cant' you flush the tank while it's in the car ? Pull the lines out the bottom and bung up. fill the tank with a suitable solvent (I'm going to say ethanol) - but REMOVE the fuel pump first !!!!

I have a S2 without ABS. But then again I have superior foot control and can make my car brake to maximum limit without skidding therefore its better than ABS. Just yesterday I had a kid, or was it a car?, pull out in front of me while I was doing 100km/h. I swear I had zero time to think about it and slammed on the brakes causing the back of my car to step out a little but luckily I came to a quick stop and missed him (or her, or the hermaphrodite in the car). A good result I think.

Anybody know the contribution that sway bars make compared to spring rates? ie. What is the effective wheel rate of a whiteline 24mm adjustable sway bar? I'm trying to do some basic calculations for front to rear balance. So far I am guessing that the stock sway bar is around 50% of the spring rates, and I'm working from that. I know the front bar adjustments are worth ~8% each and the rear ~12% each.

Nulon upper engine cleaner is cheaper. Warm up the engine first. Turn it off and spray it in all hoses leading to the manifold and AAC. Let it sit. Crank engine and it will start in 5 seconds or so. Repeat. You'll probably need to reset your idle. I even had to change my cold start values.

Correct size would be 255/35/18. Fattest you can squeeze on 8.5" is 265/35/18 RSR with a slight bulge. The stock wheel Evo and Sti do it in the states and track them. No problems. FWIW. 265/35 are cheaper than 255/35

Idle speed is controlled by AAC only when hot. Seems to be controlled with a combo of all 3 when cold (mine runs 35° timing at 20° C coolant for a 1100rpm idle). For adjusting the idle my screw is about one full turn inside flush - something for you to go on. For cleaning it I found the Nulon upper engine cleaner works GREAT.

No idea about that specific application. Do you have the stock spring rates? Maybe this application wasn't well sorted ? PSS9 generally rate quite well for ride quality. They are typically compared to KW coilovers which are also considered pretty good for the money. If I had to take one guess I'd say the damping is fine but you are just used to overly firm dampers. Ride quality is very subjective. Not having a go.

Actually it sounds about right for street tyres. 230rwkw, 240rwkw, 260rwkw, the peak power reading is largely irrelevant since they probably have the same mid-range torque at the wheels as you with a GTRS. Actually the GTRS probably hits HARDER at the mid-range than those making a fraction more power from a larger turbo. It's not unusual to light up 235mm street tyres in 2nd on smooth hotmix. I have 230rwkw and light up 2nd gear on most surfaces (no clutch jump, nothing). 235/40/18 Sumitomo Z3, properly inflated (33psi), flat mounted diff with pineapples, SK suspension, stock ride height, 1.5° camber, stock diff. If you put better tyres on such as KU36, 595RSR it will grip. Also a helical LSD will help.

I'm doing the front struts for now. Parts are being collected. Currently have Tein S-tech (medium) springs. ~4.1kg/mm front, 4.4kg/mm rear. Going to keep the 4.4kg rear Tein S-tech spring in the rear. Have the ISC strut tops. Getting sleeves and springs sent. I done quite a few calculations and I think I can squeeze in a 10" 275lb front spring.

I think the dust covers were $20 each. I'd also recommend the combo of cut down foam bump stops backed up by a "spacer" from superpro. Not sure I've got a pic of it, but essentially I cropped the foam spacers from SK down to the 330mm mark and then slide a blue poly spacer behind it (the kind that comes in packs of 4 at supercheap - off the shelf). I think the ID was ~12mm and they are about 15-20mm thick. That way you get the nice initial progressive bump stop but the rate comes on harder as the tyre gets close to the guard. I did this when I had king springs at 40mm height and it juust stopped the tyre rubbing the guard on even the most extreme driveway entries at mild speed. At 350mm centre-wheel to guard height I have about 40mm travel before it touches the bump stop, then it gets progressively harder for maybe 15mm. The Tein springs are good. I got the S-tech mediums. Front are 4.1kg, rear are 4.4kg - which is a bit funny. They feel OK but it is a bit tail happy. So I increased the front bar rate to hard (rear medium) and it's quite balanced now. They feel only very slightly firmer than king spring but the are about 15% firmer, you do notice it on the rear. FWIW I'm just buying a coilover kit tonight for my front Bilsteins so I'll be selling the front pair of Tein springs in about a month. Let me know if you want them. I'm changing because it's becomming less of a daily driver plus the rear rate is still a touch too high for the front. The Tein fronts would be ideal with King or Whiteline rear springs. They you could up the rear roll-stiffness with the rear sway-bar. ahhh you have an R32.....OK so no dice. I used the different circlip heights on the bilsteins to give a 350mm centre wheel to guard. It works best for me but my hella flush mates aren't so keen....they keep asking why I don't get coilovers and make it lower. I tell them...man I could make it another 2" lower but I don't want to.

I used pedders dust covers. They are much better than the ones that originally came form Sydneykid. The original ones didn't move with the shock and got stuck and fold and come off. The pedders ones are like an accordion, like the proper blue Bilstein ones. I use a combo bump stop of a cut down foam stop and a polyurethane bush that slides onto the shock shaft. Pretty sure I've posted the details here a year or so ago. FWIW I don't use Pedders stuff for anything else ! They now look like this (with Tein springs).

All standard shock will be farked 3 times over by now. You're doing it wrong. If I gave you cylinder full of oil and gas which was sealed by a sliding rubber grommet over a metal rod that had been used for 15 years and slide up and down 5 thousand times a day......how much oil and gas to you think would be left inside ? And how would that rubber grommet be looking by now? Replacement original rubber bushes isn't such a bad idea. Polyurethane bushes on everything would noticeably increase NVH (I have about half mine done) but you get performance benefits.

To suit that rotor you neither either: A: The R33 GTR caliper (that is all), or the R32 GTR Brembo caliper - same same. B: Use the GKTech adapters with the R32 gtst sumitomo calipers. You cannot use the R33 GTST caliper unless you use different adapters (Unique auto sports).

When does it get full boost in 4th? I have an AX53B70, full boost is at 3400rpm in 4th (no brake tricks, not up hill). Yours looks a touch higher from the dyno - but it's the road that matters. When mine came off the dyno it took until ~3800rpm in the road to hit 15psi. I richened mine up a touch (about 5%) in the mid-range on the road and it helped ALOT with 3000-4000rpm. (98 octane).

...................searches for tyres to kick and mumble "So, is she quick?"

does it see the track often? If not use copper grease on the backing pad and shim. Solved. Also could be sticky pots in the caliper. Rebuild kits are cheap, it's easy if you have compressed air and some decent clamps (for the remaining 3 pots).

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2396/team-america-world-time-attack--ark-designs-bnr32-skyline-gt-r-intro-part-1.aspx 3 parts, multiple pages each. This car has nothing to do with me. But there has been VQ put into r-chassis before. A friend is putting a VQ30DET into an S15 at the moment (the parts are pretty cheap for the HP).

You could try to up the gain on the boost controller and possibly end up with a slight boost spike. Looks like the boost is set to 18psi but doesn't quite control it near max torque (~45-5000rpm). I suspect the thing is VERY close to compressor surge while boosting and your getting some very slight symptoms from that. With a compressor bigger than a 76mm 56 trim and with a 0.63A/R it'd have to be close to surge. You can't tell driveability or response from a dyno sheet. How does it FEEL coming onto boost? Does it actually make fast boost at 4000rpm? What are the mixtures like?

I'd say VQ35HR, then TT (with 2 x 2860). It will take 50kg out of the front of the car, have more power and torque and last longer. But you'll have to build it first. I don't see much between a Neo and a RB26 for power/longevity. I'd take a stock NEO for the money with GT30 (0.86) ~280rwkw easy. Once you get over 200rwkw/tonne you're getting into serious grip/chassis issues.

I am in the same boat. Done heaps of research on the web and asking friends who do club sprints. I've only had personal experience with a few different pads myself - currently run Ultimates. My thoughts are if it is mostly street driven: First do the best you can with your current rotors and calipers 1 - buy a brake cylinder stopper (make a huge difference to control/feel) 2 - bleed brakes well 3- Get decent pads for the street (Ultimates are prob the best pure street pad but will only stand a mild track day) After this you have to make some decisions about street vs track use. Choose: A Use a street/track pad (A1RM, or similar) all the time and put up with reduced rotor wear (<40,000km for a rotor set), some noise and have some mild issues with cold friction feel (possibly very noisy). B Buy a 2nd set of pads for track use that aren't super aggressive (P-Mµ HC+, HT-10, DS2500) and swap then at home before you head out and then swap them back after you get home >> these pads are all expensive or noisy. C. Buy a larger brake rotor that allows you to keep using fast street pads (and or the swap combo with lower end race pads as above). The 324mm upgrade kit might work OK with Landcruiser DB1199 Ulimates or some such. D. Go all out and get a specific kit as below. Buy a kit from USA. Any kit that COMES WITH CALIPERS from Silvia, 240sx, 300zx should fit fine (same 12mm hole, spacing and offset - it is the stock caliper legs that differ). Seek on the internet and you will find plenty for ~$2k plus shipping. But you won't find fark all for R33 GTST, you need to seek under 240sx and 300zx if buying from the states. K-sport, Stoptech, Wilwood, etc. If you're not upgrading the front you will prob make do with 13" (330mm) or less and these will likely fit under 17" rims. Pads are up to you. With the larger rotor upgrade you can probably get away with fast street pads, rather than needing to stretch up to compromise pads (DS2500, A1RM, HP+) which will wear you rotors in <40,000km with street driving. Consider the replacement cost of pads and rotors when buying full kits (Wilwood, Stoptech, etc).