simpletool

Yep, Z33 wheels bolt straight up. I have a set of the 350Z track rim on my R33. Perfect fit.

So the only cars on the track will be us? Open to Evo, Sti, etc? Asking as myself and friends were disappointed at the regular test n tune due to the massive number of cars.

So is there any place we're meeting tonight?

They look like they have a bit of dish - which makes me wonder how much clearance they have for callipers? Might be used for a set of track rims - assuming I don't get big brakes ?

I'd be keen to meet up after gym ~7:30pm ish.

I have a series 2 running a Z32 ECU (Nistune). Yep my exhaust temp lights everytime the A/C solenoid is triggered. I pulled the light out from the dash. No other issues and been running it for 2 years now.

A good and cheap one - near Chermside on Gympie Rd but upstairs. Me 24 fitness. Didn't go last night - too busy doing tax for the past 3 years.

you can get a pack on the wire stand at any auto store - even super cheap. I think they are 5/8" copper washers. I bought a pack of 3? a couple of weeks ago.

95dB at 30m is /loud. That is 115dB at 3m measurement (typical measurement).

I would like to pop by and say hi. I'm a long time Skyline owner new who's pretty new to the area. Would only be popping by to say "hi" as I'm in desperate need of spending my time at the gym.

235/40/18 is the correct size both rim width and rolling diameter. Plus it's a common size = cheap.

Australia still has touring car racing?

HAppy laps are the next day? Damn I need to join SAU QLD and get this sorted. Where can I sign up for happy laps?

To identify you need to post the cartridge number. It is on a plate in the centre housing of the turbo.

Next step is definitely a tyre upgrade. A 2nd set of rims with some 595 RSR will save you money after a few sessions as they stand up to heat much better than the 595 SS. Better yet get some proper semi-slicks.

yeah if they've been squeeling a lot and the rotors or pads a glossy you need to dust up the rotors and pads a bit. Use some wet n dry paper to take the gloss off, then rinse with brake cleaner spray. The copper grease works well for me. Worked on both RB74 pads and Ultimates. I've rekitted my front calipers and the seals OK from the grease use, but obviously it's going to damage them a little bit.

Yep $350 is probably too much for me. I thought there were other people on this forum who might have access to same/similar items for less. Indeed you price at what the market will pay in order to get the best return. I don't think I will be paying $350 for these but I might (nahh...probably not). oohhh wait actually......meh.

I'll be replacing mine within the next month or 2. I just need to get around to getting a good condition one. So I'll sell the one in my car currently. It works fine and I have used it for 5 years and it's up to 185,000km so it's not going to die anytime soon. But it has a rattly intake cluster (vibrates a bit around 1600-1800rpm) and bearings are getting worn. Would be a great track gearbox. I want to replace it while it's still classified as a work vehicle (hence tax deduct replacement).

Copper grease is what you want. That red goo just makes shit worse after a few weeks, I've tried it all a few times over.

Apart from Unique Autosports does anybody else make the brake caliper adapters to go from 296mm to 324mm rotors? These are to use the stock GTST calipers with the larger GTR rotors (going to use the 2-piece ATTKD rotors I think). If not I guess I'll just have to fork out the $350 for the adapters. ADAPTERS

Except your initial assumption that the air filter is a point of restriction is incorrect. The restriction is in the piping into the filter and into the turbo. The air filter will outflow the piping easily and that small filter of yours isn't helping all that much. I was going to add a 2.5" pipe with a K&N filter in the guard but after some research it I considered it as no advantage over the intake mod.

Bought a Fenix. My MSPEC seemed to cool well. Never above 88°, normally sat on 81°

Well I considered repair but I thought it likely that this spot might be fixed then another go somewhere else. Then again, I know nothing about radiator repair. Any idea what a new end tank costs to fit?

I put a MSPEC radiator in my R33 in late 2007. Cooled really well for 4 years but it is now leaking from the bottom tank (where the tank meets the fins). Just FYI for those with MSPEC radiators - these things don't last forever. I've done ~80,000km in those 4 years. Any suggestions on which new radiator to buy? I'm thinking Koyo. (Yes I changed the coolant, yes it was grounded - no obvious corrosion inside)

Perhaps but they flow more.